tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-43331327882327903382024-03-04T22:53:34.053-08:00Skagit AlpinismColinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13983021751924748485noreply@blogger.comBlogger79125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4333132788232790338.post-3391659627498263832013-11-16T20:34:00.000-08:002013-11-16T20:34:27.239-08:00New WebsiteMy Skagit Alpinism blog is moving over to my new website: www.colinhaley.com. All my future bloggings shall be found there...<br />
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</div>Colinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13983021751924748485noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4333132788232790338.post-65452333629556424012013-09-08T15:15:00.001-07:002013-09-08T15:15:27.033-07:00Domo Blanco and Cerro ElectricoI had a bit of climate shock a couple weeks ago, traveling from the Squamish summer of shirtless sport climbing, down to a snowy, icy El Chalten in mid-winter. I arrived in El Chalten on August 23, and supposedly proper winter had arrived only a few days beforehand. People around town talked of a "pequeno verano" for all of June and July, with way above normal temperatures, sunny weather, and sport climbing around town. I arrived to find El Chalten covered in snow and ice, with temperatures in town hovering around -10C.<br />
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It seems that I arrived too late for giveaway winter ascents, but overall I was glad. After all, I've been thinking for several years that I wanted to come to El Chalten in winter, and it would've been disappointing to find it snow-less! Over the past several years I have spent large amounts of time in El Chalten, and one of the biggest downsides for me is missing a lot of the northern hemisphere winter, as I've always been really fond of wintertime. Well, not willing to sacrifice the summer climbing season in the Chalten Massif, obviously I jest needed to get my winter fix down here as well!<br />
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I came down here with some ambitious soloing plans, but so far have been spending my time ticking some classic summits that I've always wanted to visit, but have never been high priority in summertime. Part of the reason that I've been scaling back my ambitions is because conditions are far from ideal. The Chalten Massif saw almost zero snow accumulation all fall and winter, and then a few dumps of snow just recently. So, the glaciers are in the worst possible condition: crevasses completely obscured by smooth, fresh, wind-deposited snow, but with snow bridges that are very thin and weak. In addition, ice conditions on the peaks are very poor - mostly it is just powder snow on dry rock. During the first spell of good weather I headed out towards the ice cap with a heavy backpack full of climbing gear. Shortly below Paso Marconi I poked my ski pole through a snowbridge and decided to turn around.<br />
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When a second spell of good weather appeared in the weather forecast, I hiked into the Marconi Glacier on Sept. 1st. The next day, my twenty-ninth birthday, I romped up the original route on Cerro Domo Blanco with immaculate weather. The route is technically quite easy (some 50-degree snow ramps and a bit of 3rd-class mixed terrain), but I was still quite stressed, constantly worried that a pocket of snow on the ramp system might avalanche and send me over the cliffs below. Thus, in many areas where I could've easily loped along, I carefully hugged the rock walls, brushing snow off of holds so that I could hang on in case a slab ripped out. Perhaps I was being paranoid, but despite the extra care, and despite plenty of trail-breaking through deep snow, I topped out with plenty of time to spare. Domo Blanco is very centrally-located in the massif, and the views from the summit are fantastic!<br />
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On September 6 I used a shorter, more marginal weather window to climb and ski Cerro Electrico. Cerro Electrico is a humble peak amongst the fantastic spires of the Chalten Massif, but its big selling point is the shortest approach of any alpine peak around town (Cerro Solo and Aguja Guillaumet are much longer. Only Cerro Vespignani compares). You start rapidly gaining elevation after only 30 minutes of valley-bottom hiking.<br />
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Via the normal route on the eastern side, Cerro Electrico is a mellow glacier climb, perfect for ski mountaineering. Visibility was in and out for most of the day, but on the summit I got some spectacular views of the Chalten peaks. After tagging Cerro Electrico's main summit, I decided to try the northeast summit, which is quite prominent when viewed from Piedra del Fraile or Piedra Negra. From the glacier on Cerro Electrico's normal route, the northeast summit is just a small, 4th-class rock pyramid. The line that I climbed had a bit of M3-ish climbing, which demanded attention mostly just because it was covered in powder snow. Without a rope I didn't really want to down-solo that M3-ish bit, and found a slightly easier way to climb back down.<br />
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Rumor has it that the northeast summit of Cerro Electrico was previously unclimbed. For sure that's not because of its difficulty (it's just a short, 4th-class detour from the normal route), but simply because, like many still-unclimbed summits in the massif, there hasn't been interest. Anyways, "Cumbre Noreste" isn't really a name, so I'll refer to it as "la Cumbre Roja," which is descriptive, and likely what many people already call it.<br />
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A snowy El Chalten:<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQigQ_mR_SJ-f1ev6hEVKMMAgV3ETrmz93M1ho6tvv52KvH1FS-Ch9Ugf3jWqfqF3EOqsLs4J3oLFuTUvEd-R3V0ntZTvSoEOVjGb3wVY_WSYlxMxXKnIUMFY3ugb6xxIDZz0fFu9BMZU/s1600/01.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQigQ_mR_SJ-f1ev6hEVKMMAgV3ETrmz93M1ho6tvv52KvH1FS-Ch9Ugf3jWqfqF3EOqsLs4J3oLFuTUvEd-R3V0ntZTvSoEOVjGb3wVY_WSYlxMxXKnIUMFY3ugb6xxIDZz0fFu9BMZU/s400/01.jpg" /></a><br />
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Looking into the Torre Valley from the top of Loma del Pliegue Tumbado:<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8NBgiqLZdyD4MCbraLOt4cY8cyyP6DuHu4ai8PlwyAo8licvN8Uauxb7zqe9mlYSjzmmWH_pmApIWCnf7J7KsTn81r7jpuCYKHrtmANAqQfVF_YjgC8p02hygoIj7w6OjwfOmUrjJs7s/s1600/02.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8NBgiqLZdyD4MCbraLOt4cY8cyyP6DuHu4ai8PlwyAo8licvN8Uauxb7zqe9mlYSjzmmWH_pmApIWCnf7J7KsTn81r7jpuCYKHrtmANAqQfVF_YjgC8p02hygoIj7w6OjwfOmUrjJs7s/s400/02.jpg" /></a><br />
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Not the best snow up on Loma del Pliegue Tumbado, but the best snow I'd ever skied in August!<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEJYx8vePMxrXiaxTiALY4u4NRn4OfGXC2xx6UEOMXQ2xybk5RWkLXicWwEr9o1Qj1kCrmJFjWkfGVZLylI9Mwmzgup-y3DKMscgwLHbd2vzuhtVipLq9NmNWawCBBG1p1JN47h_za5eQ/s1600/03.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEJYx8vePMxrXiaxTiALY4u4NRn4OfGXC2xx6UEOMXQ2xybk5RWkLXicWwEr9o1Qj1kCrmJFjWkfGVZLylI9Mwmzgup-y3DKMscgwLHbd2vzuhtVipLq9NmNWawCBBG1p1JN47h_za5eQ/s400/03.jpg" /></a><br />
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A nice view of Cerro Chalten on the way back down from Loma del Pliegue Tumbado:<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgic15yyXHAt621w4S9q98JsF_mOdPVDI9fjTjVpf9WOjGFqz8lC8fNkTh1ngB-bpIez0BFW-UyxpwT4O8LcQ7OPzuDAEuoaegr7-JL9o4OE0Nhy8U5YbVB6bIdWY462blCmrI3HqeM5kQ/s1600/04.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgic15yyXHAt621w4S9q98JsF_mOdPVDI9fjTjVpf9WOjGFqz8lC8fNkTh1ngB-bpIez0BFW-UyxpwT4O8LcQ7OPzuDAEuoaegr7-JL9o4OE0Nhy8U5YbVB6bIdWY462blCmrI3HqeM5kQ/s400/04.jpg" /></a><br />
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There is actually a fair amount of waterfall climbing and mixed cragging that one could do in the mountains around Chalten. It is for sure not the quality of the Canadian Rockies or Norway, and most all the approaches are long, but I think could actually be a worthwhile trip for someone who is into adventure waterfall climbing. There was even plenty of ice forming on the wall just across the river from town, and the classic, easiest rock route was climbed with tools and crampons by Herve and Vicente, the day or day before I arrived in town:<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirl3VJkrmWibeEGdAqpYsnHOaTemsbcKZYhZWaMz9Lf9rtQiajbjukb8Uax6Wr9DzKCaXvjdEdMGBbniDRYjIiSAFb0RapY__4MG5F3dyCWpSuIDOzO03Q0I9Q5pF8pDmkLz7cDsWCELY/s1600/05.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirl3VJkrmWibeEGdAqpYsnHOaTemsbcKZYhZWaMz9Lf9rtQiajbjukb8Uax6Wr9DzKCaXvjdEdMGBbniDRYjIiSAFb0RapY__4MG5F3dyCWpSuIDOzO03Q0I9Q5pF8pDmkLz7cDsWCELY/s400/05.jpg" /></a><br />
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Hiking into the Electrico Valley on my first proper foray into the mountains:<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMEYAiBMWtY4btcLHwcxWHqXjcoz7cDsT8wDSY15AwivRFihENODM6bAz8qXHHqZ4CLakyoqThjUNjqDAGjrMWxzBCYjV-0YnQvNjpSSGHx4QbwWhbRVe_LsNNJMSfIPLlXV0wSg1wciY/s1600/06.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMEYAiBMWtY4btcLHwcxWHqXjcoz7cDsT8wDSY15AwivRFihENODM6bAz8qXHHqZ4CLakyoqThjUNjqDAGjrMWxzBCYjV-0YnQvNjpSSGHx4QbwWhbRVe_LsNNJMSfIPLlXV0wSg1wciY/s400/06.jpg" /></a><br />
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Taking a break from my way-too-heavy backpack at the base of the Marconi Glacier. Not much snow for late winter!<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjcUvxg0Eys1zXheTyXrC5ZXA98Eup1kvaIGwsolCx3HronsSIj6NcYDFeE1qBtTlaNxKTTP-e9fzgL416JzCg30qIxtUmh6zpVXOncHtDAw46l4MBWdHondqSwT-LOcuIEnmYd6kIdcE/s1600/07.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjcUvxg0Eys1zXheTyXrC5ZXA98Eup1kvaIGwsolCx3HronsSIj6NcYDFeE1qBtTlaNxKTTP-e9fzgL416JzCg30qIxtUmh6zpVXOncHtDAw46l4MBWdHondqSwT-LOcuIEnmYd6kIdcE/s400/07.jpg" /></a><br />
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Starting to snow as I headed up towards Paso Marconi:<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaqWRG28AGJwPcDILSrpsa9cF25yd7ME8Bl0dOUv9T61cBYKpqY8sm4wFcJOE2-iTOdLGR9yLW9iDymU0t8AvUADsaXVGiFgqaqduO4Kwl0V-BFcx9N-GlNP7aOay2nXS7hEc7UpTUsc4/s1600/08.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaqWRG28AGJwPcDILSrpsa9cF25yd7ME8Bl0dOUv9T61cBYKpqY8sm4wFcJOE2-iTOdLGR9yLW9iDymU0t8AvUADsaXVGiFgqaqduO4Kwl0V-BFcx9N-GlNP7aOay2nXS7hEc7UpTUsc4/s400/08.jpg" /></a><br />
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Shortly after it started snowing, I poked my ski pole into this bastard! Hmmm... I think I'll turn around and re-think my options...<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUKrhI9YZTZ95lhDx_FJThS4T9uUmQ4KQvrLizJ253AzCYNh_rXQNLkZZWQQ6L5WVDbvFUARD42ciLOBzexxeDcu7osHxTRFZQ71A6R6nJymQW7IvfmxdovVXiRmxaDn22HE-2VOwuHys/s1600/09.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUKrhI9YZTZ95lhDx_FJThS4T9uUmQ4KQvrLizJ253AzCYNh_rXQNLkZZWQQ6L5WVDbvFUARD42ciLOBzexxeDcu7osHxTRFZQ71A6R6nJymQW7IvfmxdovVXiRmxaDn22HE-2VOwuHys/s400/09.jpg" /></a><br />
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A snowy El Chalten the morning that I hiked in for Cerro Domo Blanco:<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQ1j7qnZZiwpYdGRtKxQMbDZW9LlsWWgngCc16p6MWp0fNSA0GBWmGhS8hgk3MX4rBvbl9bwmA-llR-550m_DijDRojqoW73bk4TgJlEvyJ66X0VGTl345zRWIKUSQyz_JQMV6c5i24g0/s1600/11.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQ1j7qnZZiwpYdGRtKxQMbDZW9LlsWWgngCc16p6MWp0fNSA0GBWmGhS8hgk3MX4rBvbl9bwmA-llR-550m_DijDRojqoW73bk4TgJlEvyJ66X0VGTl345zRWIKUSQyz_JQMV6c5i24g0/s400/11.jpg" /></a><br />
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The Rio Electrico bridge:<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYI6F0OC24ztDtEy774fmIACYk9-jfY70mKP6SORGoshR4dkts1Ih6qCfm1JF-CSXSyLTQ-CKSbGnJ_lYpsS-jof2a28dO5UVPuLOyP9MX2EycD-Fh03FHjfBM6GURDxDfvpruTrFh6U4/s1600/12.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYI6F0OC24ztDtEy774fmIACYk9-jfY70mKP6SORGoshR4dkts1Ih6qCfm1JF-CSXSyLTQ-CKSbGnJ_lYpsS-jof2a28dO5UVPuLOyP9MX2EycD-Fh03FHjfBM6GURDxDfvpruTrFh6U4/s400/12.jpg" /></a><br />
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Walkin' in a winter wonderland...<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghdr2wJjnPKkZvLLiCT08RQhaWrMdee8wWuzr5hidLlPBkX5_dPuDukp3kNsfA8-Du1kGS6RQQX6WMAcMxgJc4PGkddmPjdv45DniL045UMG66ReydBEPWh2oe0ehIQDbuz0I3pzClrnU/s1600/13.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghdr2wJjnPKkZvLLiCT08RQhaWrMdee8wWuzr5hidLlPBkX5_dPuDukp3kNsfA8-Du1kGS6RQQX6WMAcMxgJc4PGkddmPjdv45DniL045UMG66ReydBEPWh2oe0ehIQDbuz0I3pzClrnU/s400/13.jpg" /></a><br />
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Oooh, magical...<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGmH3nuTOyBxt57av-8AZQByY8c5qCjcKyT00xtniV_Pe6rbixfO6U_qbtjKua8Sq57_UfnFVi9HVWeb8MswxztxPuNeYzDXsY_SVsCwkZkZBZ3Epk3FYbWQmSimTHjLruvi3dXEjy5Z4/s1600/14.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGmH3nuTOyBxt57av-8AZQByY8c5qCjcKyT00xtniV_Pe6rbixfO6U_qbtjKua8Sq57_UfnFVi9HVWeb8MswxztxPuNeYzDXsY_SVsCwkZkZBZ3Epk3FYbWQmSimTHjLruvi3dXEjy5Z4/s400/14.jpg" /></a><br />
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Looking up at the awesome west face of Cerro Piergiorgio while post-holing up to the original route on Domo Blanco:<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_qYf6Dq_TLhugIw_unvhEwaucyVq5JBFz4Ri5G_Z3eAHYqnMtcLZkaLnsOBJxp3IiUeL43eyq33Pg6G1CuUqaSgVFXv5bwEMvLa8wyJ2yMNllmZDTwB083VeLr1DPmuHt5d3rqJhMuuo/s1600/15.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_qYf6Dq_TLhugIw_unvhEwaucyVq5JBFz4Ri5G_Z3eAHYqnMtcLZkaLnsOBJxp3IiUeL43eyq33Pg6G1CuUqaSgVFXv5bwEMvLa8wyJ2yMNllmZDTwB083VeLr1DPmuHt5d3rqJhMuuo/s400/15.jpg" /></a><br />
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Self-portrait part way up Domo Blanco, with the Marconi Peaks behind:<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_hxNc8IZyW4xQCUYOpcUU7rdw2Be62QNeZu39HwgPmeOPLN0xbi1mdnXZPQGYJ43DglWuZa1hbH6I77eHzR4bzpVWlhp7dJg387nJGd6ylwnMU8gqeLLU7PEQzKloXzPvlYJOWXSCHtI/s1600/16.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_hxNc8IZyW4xQCUYOpcUU7rdw2Be62QNeZu39HwgPmeOPLN0xbi1mdnXZPQGYJ43DglWuZa1hbH6I77eHzR4bzpVWlhp7dJg387nJGd6ylwnMU8gqeLLU7PEQzKloXzPvlYJOWXSCHtI/s400/16.jpg" /></a><br />
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A nice view of Cerro Piergiorgio from near the top of Domo Blanco:<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhO-yXyu5UAcHq2SnQxTXCgD5f-Ral6r6QaLZOKHGSlOEYHqSPVuHhmQ5JB_6aQiQgJtBFXY-pjqPogOUefGqlRndrkAcqKqJj9k7wPiGkGkuHqgG4I0SyMGJtR4uaeasVVl0HBm_G71So/s1600/17.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhO-yXyu5UAcHq2SnQxTXCgD5f-Ral6r6QaLZOKHGSlOEYHqSPVuHhmQ5JB_6aQiQgJtBFXY-pjqPogOUefGqlRndrkAcqKqJj9k7wPiGkGkuHqgG4I0SyMGJtR4uaeasVVl0HBm_G71So/s400/17.jpg" /></a><br />
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Looking down to the Marconi Glacier from near the top of Domo Blanco:<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgc6qvN5oowt1EHIbP-lu0aOHDatV15euoQIE5IfrkkTg5PUm74AwJKA4kC8zliAExLoyFfAj0hC9ubEUPRV0R_3RLXmuISOip8PhitDpxX22Mk2k5cVTObtuFhh4JFa0YmbWTeWCYw5YU/s1600/18.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgc6qvN5oowt1EHIbP-lu0aOHDatV15euoQIE5IfrkkTg5PUm74AwJKA4kC8zliAExLoyFfAj0hC9ubEUPRV0R_3RLXmuISOip8PhitDpxX22Mk2k5cVTObtuFhh4JFa0YmbWTeWCYw5YU/s400/18.jpg" /></a><br />
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Cerro Chalten and the Supercanaleta from near the top of Domo Blanco:<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUOyqaM0c1wYxtF7MirwvZhcW13w78EFn389bWDpnGfu9NenpKAXpxbc2sjaVMgfMZIG3dQr1SHcBKLK1_h6Bzx5xPZXmUbvQNUl-Ky2RKcr5yFHdmq5Efy4G66PFMVE-c3U6G8ylsktA/s1600/19.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUOyqaM0c1wYxtF7MirwvZhcW13w78EFn389bWDpnGfu9NenpKAXpxbc2sjaVMgfMZIG3dQr1SHcBKLK1_h6Bzx5xPZXmUbvQNUl-Ky2RKcr5yFHdmq5Efy4G66PFMVE-c3U6G8ylsktA/s400/19.jpg" /></a><br />
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Looking at the Torres (all stacked in front of one another from this direction) from the summit of Domo Blanco:<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjr8MQWe_X9DU09hI-EVoab6zRCn216nXnWhyphenhyphenoKtEECYotZ9LmMoFWZr0AE_o3wGV3GBCH3UYyK2QS5F-uPcZrF1JjAABYWWBjjbkSLdkm4moU1gthB3qeq-_q38MU0WmuJA_UjhuH1Fbc/s1600/20.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjr8MQWe_X9DU09hI-EVoab6zRCn216nXnWhyphenhyphenoKtEECYotZ9LmMoFWZr0AE_o3wGV3GBCH3UYyK2QS5F-uPcZrF1JjAABYWWBjjbkSLdkm4moU1gthB3qeq-_q38MU0WmuJA_UjhuH1Fbc/s400/20.jpg" /></a><br />
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Looking west out to the ice cap and Cerro Mariano Moreno. Domo Blanco actually has three summits, and I thought the central one might be higher than the east summit that I arrived to first, so I went over to be sure... Of course, from the central summit the east summit looked highest afterall...<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgS6TFaHHqUlKA3kBNNeVc7zeSBE8cqtxRuqjti2zQgWKt2o7jXjgCEX6MwlN0m810WCq1aFmaotfoICHCY4pB3X_bhHGIEuWPxM6GI_Rw31Oa3lweCndcjcxdsNCrc6Yj7jZQTMjR5pGs/s1600/21.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgS6TFaHHqUlKA3kBNNeVc7zeSBE8cqtxRuqjti2zQgWKt2o7jXjgCEX6MwlN0m810WCq1aFmaotfoICHCY4pB3X_bhHGIEuWPxM6GI_Rw31Oa3lweCndcjcxdsNCrc6Yj7jZQTMjR5pGs/s400/21.jpg" /></a><br />
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Looking down the Torre Valley, and out towards Lago Viedma:<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8tLG6gSkqLm_roNldC0X2jyWY86jfcxzwYDzoHEAilpbL4aDZCvo2hUajGI8Fi9E12tm6tZHL8WAGImtItdmogxubyHOBFkjwPYdPU5nwE-AmKnb1cwyH3oKuebeQQwpb4NCXK8ShTuc/s1600/22.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8tLG6gSkqLm_roNldC0X2jyWY86jfcxzwYDzoHEAilpbL4aDZCvo2hUajGI8Fi9E12tm6tZHL8WAGImtItdmogxubyHOBFkjwPYdPU5nwE-AmKnb1cwyH3oKuebeQQwpb4NCXK8ShTuc/s400/22.jpg" /></a><br />
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Evening on the Marconi Glacier. Cerro Domo Blanco is the buttressed blob to the right of Cerro Piergiorgio:<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPzyBr9fOcxkL-Vj2-vq7ObnRmL-9sXFV2cf2j0GS6oQJ7EzReaccETW8NJiQrqKQ45yBhhzmnSGjYc4Oc936TIy4p3U0H24JiiGuppuXv__HWPyj_7xLCbf_MKFV43_CqjLowbq4KSus/s1600/23.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPzyBr9fOcxkL-Vj2-vq7ObnRmL-9sXFV2cf2j0GS6oQJ7EzReaccETW8NJiQrqKQ45yBhhzmnSGjYc4Oc936TIy4p3U0H24JiiGuppuXv__HWPyj_7xLCbf_MKFV43_CqjLowbq4KSus/s400/23.jpg" /></a><br />
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Hiking up to the glacier on the east side of Cerro Electrico:<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJZEtwMwoIJmF0EbXI4RRnbOOrxAvqNx4wJpn4O7NfM02sz1wVyLgCeZ39LsPCBKLdckVfONIaVgo1F0Ui3qS_BjVEQTw03VssiYlqXBHHD7ex7bwMaLBP07VrZmKkJmCEAsmKPYqZQvo/s1600/24.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJZEtwMwoIJmF0EbXI4RRnbOOrxAvqNx4wJpn4O7NfM02sz1wVyLgCeZ39LsPCBKLdckVfONIaVgo1F0Ui3qS_BjVEQTw03VssiYlqXBHHD7ex7bwMaLBP07VrZmKkJmCEAsmKPYqZQvo/s400/24.jpg" /></a><br />
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Looking northeast towards Lago Viedma from partway up Cerro Electrico's east-face glacier:<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQ7xTEwBgJqi8hQhyphenhyphenL820mh2hasKJdNrqabYYJTa8KaGgdKJBUWaxLn5Lv57RHiA_3x567o8eDfEMLwKMvjXe6_N-jqGZij8IU6X7cDYpvPV_az_QJbKcScnIqHyQNZ5ySrPPbpYrEFGs/s1600/25.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQ7xTEwBgJqi8hQhyphenhyphenL820mh2hasKJdNrqabYYJTa8KaGgdKJBUWaxLn5Lv57RHiA_3x567o8eDfEMLwKMvjXe6_N-jqGZij8IU6X7cDYpvPV_az_QJbKcScnIqHyQNZ5ySrPPbpYrEFGs/s400/25.jpg" /></a><br />
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Getting near the top of Cerro Electrico now...<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgt28LDhE_zvEuWgFKwbWJVKfFv7HoTQrNm5jyOSdomr8nZJEHA9YXNkRtzAJqGblySO_hnUshknd2urkYtCWBViZlJkpmslrk7t-JQRPox2hIezKuprZIHt1vhgy2pkncJ2sm4InVTJvo/s1600/26.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgt28LDhE_zvEuWgFKwbWJVKfFv7HoTQrNm5jyOSdomr8nZJEHA9YXNkRtzAJqGblySO_hnUshknd2urkYtCWBViZlJkpmslrk7t-JQRPox2hIezKuprZIHt1vhgy2pkncJ2sm4InVTJvo/s400/26.jpg" /></a><br />
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On the summit of Cerro Electrico... I think I'll relax a bit and watch Chalten come out of the clouds...<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjI7slBrwx5_Jgerl8flQTwsZyV4j-cxyqPYR38doWafS-wOyNSv1FE5Y5m5lxaFPplzM72jllhXSsuMRpRlIPISryQWx9XzEm3Hq_QoalfSnfVtzhilh79EChVMKTnvOwqumJAoWeCpu0/s1600/27.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjI7slBrwx5_Jgerl8flQTwsZyV4j-cxyqPYR38doWafS-wOyNSv1FE5Y5m5lxaFPplzM72jllhXSsuMRpRlIPISryQWx9XzEm3Hq_QoalfSnfVtzhilh79EChVMKTnvOwqumJAoWeCpu0/s400/27.jpg" /></a><br />
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Thar she blows!<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3U_45TUus1EpqXhntiVJuo2tiF4SGC2SC7iS-DH1WASfgvDV4V67ReTLmOwbKkvuzzPvPDIn8jdPASJ0GVpHyEYJhbf_JzuqsQUh24YLyM9LItDKDSG7rqKi-Mqm_n4HE9Yf3ENjsKlE/s1600/28.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3U_45TUus1EpqXhntiVJuo2tiF4SGC2SC7iS-DH1WASfgvDV4V67ReTLmOwbKkvuzzPvPDIn8jdPASJ0GVpHyEYJhbf_JzuqsQUh24YLyM9LItDKDSG7rqKi-Mqm_n4HE9Yf3ENjsKlE/s400/28.jpg" /></a><br />
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Looking northeast from the summit of Cerro Electrico, towards Cerro Gorra Blanca, Cerro Neumayer and Cerro Cagliero:<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaj21dEQL8qClDqSSAe8SO5f1afPcrCfv8-1slxvbS69EkuaXQeoVVA7UEf2Yo-DrMEayfd7vX1aczEzcpYHG5D1AS9BGeK1xFg5vHfpeF3_VlOjj60lG9wnqMfMJxhfSdAfmu77EyznM/s1600/29.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaj21dEQL8qClDqSSAe8SO5f1afPcrCfv8-1slxvbS69EkuaXQeoVVA7UEf2Yo-DrMEayfd7vX1aczEzcpYHG5D1AS9BGeK1xFg5vHfpeF3_VlOjj60lG9wnqMfMJxhfSdAfmu77EyznM/s400/29.jpg" /></a><br />
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Looking down to Laguna Piedras Blancas:<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVJhNAE6Mbt5Efx9bEAJNKPAt7B5wSDpNBz7VWh21GHShlcmMYhHjdX8PKwLdU-oy7zVWivC1LNBSsBRx7Khc1CDQoWoFE3pd-DUtrjjkSA68HxwX7io3O5WWEw2o9f6QPa-GWVEuGclA/s1600/30.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVJhNAE6Mbt5Efx9bEAJNKPAt7B5wSDpNBz7VWh21GHShlcmMYhHjdX8PKwLdU-oy7zVWivC1LNBSsBRx7Khc1CDQoWoFE3pd-DUtrjjkSA68HxwX7io3O5WWEw2o9f6QPa-GWVEuGclA/s400/30.jpg" /></a><br />
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Yeah, that's not a bad view!<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEja4Zeis9IAzs4PYkxr-FU7Taz-kmuJoaF1IALPmRlFnoK8q48ZmbK8oYyyFhGlEQ0l9g8p9euljNc5GLkKv_qyp9rvT7aFL5apM96diYVWMJPJAsYvyjgeZkep1x-Ikw2zfFnDXKXO5l0/s1600/31.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEja4Zeis9IAzs4PYkxr-FU7Taz-kmuJoaF1IALPmRlFnoK8q48ZmbK8oYyyFhGlEQ0l9g8p9euljNc5GLkKv_qyp9rvT7aFL5apM96diYVWMJPJAsYvyjgeZkep1x-Ikw2zfFnDXKXO5l0/s400/31.jpg" /></a><br />
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The snow was far from perfect, and I was on my approach skis in mountaineering boots... but skiing is skiing - that is, freakin' fun regardless!<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgg4SXuoYxw54GFZqrr4zT4YmvyigN-gw_6hEBZXhKHefUXBDZ9AWv8xUMzfJDs-U3CE5XdXNlWieG3WM2h7Lf54vtbeNBHMQPGBRow8NMbmkJs_SgzOv5B-rBSkHVEjLaLBiwc16N9Gsk/s1600/32.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgg4SXuoYxw54GFZqrr4zT4YmvyigN-gw_6hEBZXhKHefUXBDZ9AWv8xUMzfJDs-U3CE5XdXNlWieG3WM2h7Lf54vtbeNBHMQPGBRow8NMbmkJs_SgzOv5B-rBSkHVEjLaLBiwc16N9Gsk/s400/32.jpg" /></a><br />
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La Cumbre Roja. I climbed up just left of the central rib.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2_y2Xlm7j0PpZ0W_zAYzc8fFXB7-pUdSEnP3tqTNSTOBRmTLRXUzb2swn6ADsS9tmE8U-kuD2e7ULDjQMZ1cOpeBhKvglZ9Z8A-ALf9rRCXR5bI2jqYPUcGCDyPX6LyYrHmCp_fevwkY/s1600/33.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2_y2Xlm7j0PpZ0W_zAYzc8fFXB7-pUdSEnP3tqTNSTOBRmTLRXUzb2swn6ADsS9tmE8U-kuD2e7ULDjQMZ1cOpeBhKvglZ9Z8A-ALf9rRCXR5bI2jqYPUcGCDyPX6LyYrHmCp_fevwkY/s400/33.jpg" /></a><br />
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On the way up la Cumbre Roja:<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihjtF8ZzW41dh99VuHvaTRaabzmGsSla7prqx65mzxc_2Y9v6x1TeEs7OELw_ffR_SfrmPRKXbH9LRwMy7v97CyTf2RdmIf-yAoMSXSeSnO-q_fCyTfHj1mEPqxznBPr6LKz2LbCbxpZE/s1600/34.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihjtF8ZzW41dh99VuHvaTRaabzmGsSla7prqx65mzxc_2Y9v6x1TeEs7OELw_ffR_SfrmPRKXbH9LRwMy7v97CyTf2RdmIf-yAoMSXSeSnO-q_fCyTfHj1mEPqxznBPr6LKz2LbCbxpZE/s400/34.jpg" /></a><br />
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The one tricky bit was at the top. I climbed on the right on the way up, which felt about M3-ish, but found a slightly easier way on the left for the downclimb:<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDPf_jZriJTa8Ttrnr9p4DFJ3zRaSeSigyYJmRUzom3JYu6axn03-OdBvBwbaxn5NwDmqDBX-3j8wZHLcVo3o9V52Bj1-AC6kQthWIY18cPCj-VjQVOnEm0_xPZpcYH1jM1TBCgGhHKJI/s1600/35.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDPf_jZriJTa8Ttrnr9p4DFJ3zRaSeSigyYJmRUzom3JYu6axn03-OdBvBwbaxn5NwDmqDBX-3j8wZHLcVo3o9V52Bj1-AC6kQthWIY18cPCj-VjQVOnEm0_xPZpcYH1jM1TBCgGhHKJI/s400/35.jpg" /></a><br />
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Some snowy fourth-class rock just below the top of la Cumbre Roja:<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7bfUclx1Uc2jJ88jJwAbpCp91CEh7Ww5aF_qXpbsRvIik8KHRl-4dr4v7cz9aONsWebdJyrWosLjJee8Bl2Zx0TQZeolQ8nTX0kQlwyw_-vDzU5QDMXeha6prm75VPYgPOOrLqWCORCE/s1600/36.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7bfUclx1Uc2jJ88jJwAbpCp91CEh7Ww5aF_qXpbsRvIik8KHRl-4dr4v7cz9aONsWebdJyrWosLjJee8Bl2Zx0TQZeolQ8nTX0kQlwyw_-vDzU5QDMXeha6prm75VPYgPOOrLqWCORCE/s400/36.jpg" /></a><br />
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The summit of la Cumbre Roja:<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8j_HMetUAvYXMxn8EeIzaHDEJWr_XbfFIm87yYNo1Jahh6QdjbiUw-OE1HxcNWwmCHr6K8ekf7fd0ocJmFe7zpMI2Tu-wltv3_bauHG7RelIq-me0TVvpsgFTx5EMPbrzg2omON1P8KM/s1600/37.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8j_HMetUAvYXMxn8EeIzaHDEJWr_XbfFIm87yYNo1Jahh6QdjbiUw-OE1HxcNWwmCHr6K8ekf7fd0ocJmFe7zpMI2Tu-wltv3_bauHG7RelIq-me0TVvpsgFTx5EMPbrzg2omON1P8KM/s400/37.jpg" /></a><br />
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This photo is from down in the Electrico Valley during my first trip up towards Paso Marconi. La Cumbre Roja is the obvious red summit.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBBEOsBvFI6ncaLXNgLA6hLsuwlJ3YOMBPGB9DIp8wgcrL3eYGRpqZMF1m8l_2i0doLU-MBOz94YM9O0jQPO8zy38ili19fJyltHdx5cUOqpOTc5y4RNoLtDLI81SQvLLtmJZ-zBO7KBk/s1600/38.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBBEOsBvFI6ncaLXNgLA6hLsuwlJ3YOMBPGB9DIp8wgcrL3eYGRpqZMF1m8l_2i0doLU-MBOz94YM9O0jQPO8zy38ili19fJyltHdx5cUOqpOTc5y4RNoLtDLI81SQvLLtmJZ-zBO7KBk/s400/38.jpg" /></a><br />
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Some more nice turns further down Cerro Electrico's east glacier:<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaVG6YaKxHrzEIE5QK0fk5M-Is56Z2xdQa2IWz_4soKflzTxxlD6MUzAy4DTU7XHQbKm7lxNsEj9yhoPluZBW6nWwkjZlFZTc4CP35v_RzfS9h-oLPMnfinV5rYYqMLiWzJjGmp_qO3Kc/s1600/39.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaVG6YaKxHrzEIE5QK0fk5M-Is56Z2xdQa2IWz_4soKflzTxxlD6MUzAy4DTU7XHQbKm7lxNsEj9yhoPluZBW6nWwkjZlFZTc4CP35v_RzfS9h-oLPMnfinV5rYYqMLiWzJjGmp_qO3Kc/s400/39.jpg" /></a><br />
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Fuck, I love skiing!<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqSEqZzkM7cNEOWFOyL4vzQkX63LJin73FilJ6T2dQphO4wePHcvGnsa-ailNPIb1k7co54s3YxsMWT6g1RMJ9DDQo51zDv0NWHETzy6NuOjLC4GUlJXa2FNaVmXc6N57pJxg0A3Z58Mw/s1600/40.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqSEqZzkM7cNEOWFOyL4vzQkX63LJin73FilJ6T2dQphO4wePHcvGnsa-ailNPIb1k7co54s3YxsMWT6g1RMJ9DDQo51zDv0NWHETzy6NuOjLC4GUlJXa2FNaVmXc6N57pJxg0A3Z58Mw/s400/40.jpg" /></a><br />
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</div>Colinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13983021751924748485noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4333132788232790338.post-53768722321987430952013-08-12T20:31:00.000-07:002013-08-12T20:31:55.000-07:00Summer in Squamish - Dedication to RockWhen I finally finished university in early 2009 I was just about ready to explode, and for the next three years I was nearly always on back-to-back alpine climbing trips, making extended annual visits to Chamonix, Alaska, Pakistan and Patagonia. For three years I think I averaged about 180 days per year on glaciers! It was an amazing stint, and I felt very happy to be following my dreams in inspiring places. The one problem, however, is that I was progressing very slowly as a climber. One paradox with high-level alpine climbing, is that to some degree the more you do it, the worse you become at it. It is pretty standard to come home from an alpine climbing trip, especially one at high altitude, in worse physical fitness than when you left, particularly for hard technical climbing.<br />
<br />
I have been sleeping in snow caves since I was ten years old, climbing glaciers since I was eleven, and throughout highschool and university I spent a humongous amount of time alpine climbing in the Cascades. Thus, I developed a massive alpine experience repertoire when I was young, but unlike most serious climbers my age, I missed out on the rock training. I didn't start semi-regularly visiting a climbing gym until I was nineteen, and I never tried redpointing (as opposed to making an onsight attempt then moving on) a sport route until I was twenty-two, when I climbed my first 5.12a. Hard free-climbing continues to be my greatest weakness as an alpinist, and therefore where I have the most space to grow and improve, and I find that personal improvement is always very motivating.<br />
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A couple years ago I made a conscious decision not to visit the Himalaya for a few years, and instead focus all my energy on Patagonian alpinism in the austral summer, and training to improve myself as a climber during the northern hemisphere summer. It's not that I burnt out on back-to-back alpine trips - quite to the contrary, I have to remain disciplined to NOT constantly plan alpine adventures, and instead dedicate myself to rock climbing for the bulk of the summer. In essence I am sacrificing some opportunities to try amazing objectives, with the hope that while I may attempt fewer objectives, I will be more skilled, and attempt more difficult objectives.<br />
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So, 2013 has been the third summer in a row that I have spent mostly training in Squamish. I do really consider it training, but I guess that the word "training" doesn't really do justice to enjoying myself on world-class boulders, sport climbs and trad climbs. Add in the best weather in North America for the months of July, August and September, and the fact that my wonderful girlfriend lives in Squamish, is a hard rock climber herself, and is keen to rock climb with me all summer, and I can deal with missing out on the Himalaya for a few years!<br />
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One mistake that I made this summer was getting involved in route development here in Squamish. Along with my girlfriend, Sarah, and Jeremy Frimer, I spent about twelve days working on a crag near the top of the new soon-to-be-running gondola that we are calling the "Ultraviolet Cliff." It was a good experience, and I'm glad to have helped contribute something to the local climbing community that I feel is of value... but I hope to remember not to get involved again! Holy smokes, route development is A LOT of work! The experience has definitely given me a large appreciation for the group of local Squamish climbers who do a large amount of route development year after year. Thanks guys! Oh, and if you're curious about the crag that we've been working on, Jeremy has posted some inforation on it here:<br />
http://squamishclimbing.com/squamish_climbing_bb/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=4670&p=22216#p22216<br />
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I had a bit of a setback this spring when I fractured my cheek-bone in the St. Elias mountains, but all in all I had a good head-start on my rock climbing season this year by not spending 60 days in the Central Alaska Range! My springtime head start, combined with a bunch of time spent sport climbing this year, has resulted in some of my best "sends," and of course it's always nice to get a bit of positive confirmation that my "training" is working! A week or so ago, Sarah sent the classic highball boulder problem that we'd been trying, "Resurrection" (V9), and then this past Saturday I managed to send it as well - my first V9! The next day (yesterday), the unhealthy frequency with which we've been going sport climbing was justified when I sent "Freewill" (5.13c), by far my hardest redpoint. "Freewill," on The Big Show wall, was established in 1995 by local Squamish badass Jola Sandford, and at the time was one of the hardest routes in the world established by a woman. It is a one bolt and one boulder problem extension of "Gom Jabbar" (5.13b), established in 1993 by Keith Reid, the first person to realize the potential of The Big Show.<br />
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It is a bit comical to have redpointed 5.13c, as I've only ever climbed two 13a's before, and I've never climbed 5.13b. Having put in about 18 tries goes to show how much of a difference extensive rehearsal makes. Aside from ruthless rehearsal, I think the only reason I redpointed a grade so far above my normal level is because "Freewill" caters exactly to my strengths. I am generally a weanie when sport climbing, always scared to fall, but "Freewill" is so radically overhanging and the falls so obviously safe that for once I could let go of my fear completely. The route is also largely about endurance (the hardest moves are only V5 I'd estimate), which is generally a strength of mine. And lastly, the crux sequence is powerful moves off of sinker fingerlocks, and I've always felt better on fingerlocks than any other type of hold or jam.<br />
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The experience of redpointing a hard sport climb has certainly been rewarding, and I'll definitely try to do it again, but it also makes me realize just how specific the accomplishment is. So, now I've "sent" a 5.13c, but I'm sure I'll still get gripped leading 5.7 chimneys on El Cap, and I'll almost certainly get a big smackdown any time I try to onsight 5.11 at Index. Just goes to show that the numbers don't really mean all that much compared to the context - onsight vs. redpoint, sport vs. trad, finger cracks vs. offwidths, Index grades vs. Kalymnos grades, etc, etc, etc... But, anyways, it's been fun training!<br />
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Fern Webb leading "Emerald Frond" (5.9), at the Ultraviolet Cliff:<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdT5mMz_rRfuBJy1qXR8pF4VWPkVgSLEob7HrAwO8XBJp23RVbYdGlVlG1ydJ2fkZ_zTp0eJOWYEYIx_Xtx5puIk-IuDmLodFjYgu_Ja-ceAXbdCyRrRkuEyofz3uirHY58I2XJbDRh6U/s1600/01.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdT5mMz_rRfuBJy1qXR8pF4VWPkVgSLEob7HrAwO8XBJp23RVbYdGlVlG1ydJ2fkZ_zTp0eJOWYEYIx_Xtx5puIk-IuDmLodFjYgu_Ja-ceAXbdCyRrRkuEyofz3uirHY58I2XJbDRh6U/s400/01.jpg" /></a><br />
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Seth Adams leading the four-star "Ruby's Corner" (5.10a), at the Ultraviolet Cliff:<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAW_XYOUim8kxj4Jxbd2IPDE4zqgTUCBeEbGr6cjSm4IQaCy4wBNBtkPmb9-GZHFiuVEnSFj0kknWYCukhXg2f9SFr-vTUn4G3OSCroRnSZljeW-ovlu12rgTDbxpiw-sZ3VNN1uauJg4/s1600/02.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAW_XYOUim8kxj4Jxbd2IPDE4zqgTUCBeEbGr6cjSm4IQaCy4wBNBtkPmb9-GZHFiuVEnSFj0kknWYCukhXg2f9SFr-vTUn4G3OSCroRnSZljeW-ovlu12rgTDbxpiw-sZ3VNN1uauJg4/s400/02.jpg" /></a><br />
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Seth Adams leading "Fifteen Kilometre Crack" 5.11a/b or 5.8, A0), at the Ultraviolet Cliff:<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9IOJ-TwS_vXe5_RzWOjrXJsNPnXFrzjBnB_3ZZQ0DpPtZmUHd-bSWKjIfk6yjhCddebUXQJrHIy15BVPEZKqG6IjXWxjo8lkJ4yb57qV-qgNdV5ojkAYCZ-KbwGxoBXDinMF9oKmY9IA/s1600/03.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9IOJ-TwS_vXe5_RzWOjrXJsNPnXFrzjBnB_3ZZQ0DpPtZmUHd-bSWKjIfk6yjhCddebUXQJrHIy15BVPEZKqG6IjXWxjo8lkJ4yb57qV-qgNdV5ojkAYCZ-KbwGxoBXDinMF9oKmY9IA/s400/03.jpg" /></a><br />
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Nick Elson leading the showpiece route of the Ultraviolet Cliff, "Dead Bernardo's Crack" (5.11c):<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj195gtMSwZrFoxDrRPY6zkoofWsCwmDDhDs0FyAIFSPGWIKo7I8kMaKbIEqJw99N5siJ4ini_FLf8WSl4Bmu6YL2LCQD0126KtJsbRP9a3c5jrdd-WWYvbwZfg5LYLiVvp3BiUHX2u818/s1600/04.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj195gtMSwZrFoxDrRPY6zkoofWsCwmDDhDs0FyAIFSPGWIKo7I8kMaKbIEqJw99N5siJ4ini_FLf8WSl4Bmu6YL2LCQD0126KtJsbRP9a3c5jrdd-WWYvbwZfg5LYLiVvp3BiUHX2u818/s400/04.jpg" /></a><br />
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Nick Elson near the top of "Dead Bernardo's Crack" (5.11c), at Ultraviolet Cliff:<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKsGkGEX_gJ0Q0PH02vs-qy1Nxq7D14Bx_AYUdNc0eHbYg_qR16fD8GLMxqwYbmU5puRFUWanKHojJElza5f7asEphySt1B7uUvltFky2la-7M8YZHFmSQYtuXVA0kHsa6MnP6zGqx9DI/s1600/05.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKsGkGEX_gJ0Q0PH02vs-qy1Nxq7D14Bx_AYUdNc0eHbYg_qR16fD8GLMxqwYbmU5puRFUWanKHojJElza5f7asEphySt1B7uUvltFky2la-7M8YZHFmSQYtuXVA0kHsa6MnP6zGqx9DI/s400/05.jpg" /></a><br />
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Fern Webb cleaning the anchors on "Fifteen Kilometre Crack" 5.11a/b or 5.8, A0), with Sky Pilot and Copilot in the background:<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhr-S6PuwRLhrAlmodp8AvtNDs20KLrGVJr-ud20V9DIC9wIRVzbYQ59R4FTFPmX3kmPsCklloZvBlyGmIKumexARWUNnKfSpadCsNicY5lF08JXSEYyCbZ0t3ll5REdS9G4Qzap19rGzw/s1600/06.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhr-S6PuwRLhrAlmodp8AvtNDs20KLrGVJr-ud20V9DIC9wIRVzbYQ59R4FTFPmX3kmPsCklloZvBlyGmIKumexARWUNnKfSpadCsNicY5lF08JXSEYyCbZ0t3ll5REdS9G4Qzap19rGzw/s400/06.jpg" /></a><br />
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One thing I like about living near glaciers is you always have the option to go do a bit of ice climbing, even in mid summer. Sarah nearing the toe of the Matier Glacier, above Joffre Lakes:<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrB1CBw_6rOYNkq1SaHT3iSsY3tTVy-uCuCbFbNJ08dOvQXWluUZdZ_9qrC7-GFqpGvlcOv_MGV7benChh4SvWt6A6Kl41zXeGxgbbFPC_Ujmg18ePrXZ_G5Y40vs7m4rILPBj0sbvC1Y/s1600/07.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrB1CBw_6rOYNkq1SaHT3iSsY3tTVy-uCuCbFbNJ08dOvQXWluUZdZ_9qrC7-GFqpGvlcOv_MGV7benChh4SvWt6A6Kl41zXeGxgbbFPC_Ujmg18ePrXZ_G5Y40vs7m4rILPBj0sbvC1Y/s400/07.jpg" /></a><br />
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Sarah climbing on the Matier Glacier:<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilhogJj9gTJYkQjVl_odqEYvm6fH6xgpx-VWfsG8TnT-A0rCRJYydyTwwuHRMnNnXfFws8IoZNFj88a620Ul5R3G0xUkRiH2h7XhnL4mO5-GflnRqylpRIwtqnbxUMSzzhxNf8w2-wgpA/s1600/08.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilhogJj9gTJYkQjVl_odqEYvm6fH6xgpx-VWfsG8TnT-A0rCRJYydyTwwuHRMnNnXfFws8IoZNFj88a620Ul5R3G0xUkRiH2h7XhnL4mO5-GflnRqylpRIwtqnbxUMSzzhxNf8w2-wgpA/s400/08.jpg" /></a><br />
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Looking down on the Joffre Lakes from the Matier Glacier. I like this photo because the recent terminal moraines are so clearly and elegantly visible in the upper lake:<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBjVsOnHMYMKkKwIGLQu-dkVMViROVSq1QVrixMEJIMHVbESU4IyZKQX6JpTbiDLXbiS4UI_PFmey4xb5DvdqkeP8daIcL7fdjVfnId0feePWN3ABd9YtxsVHE9vBmct5UPV_J2YWbWHc/s1600/09.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBjVsOnHMYMKkKwIGLQu-dkVMViROVSq1QVrixMEJIMHVbESU4IyZKQX6JpTbiDLXbiS4UI_PFmey4xb5DvdqkeP8daIcL7fdjVfnId0feePWN3ABd9YtxsVHE9vBmct5UPV_J2YWbWHc/s400/09.jpg" /></a><br />
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Sarah climbing out of a crevasse on the Matier Glacier:<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimBUBIjq_-g_L_gMlhessMGLTqBa0vVIiovLRXU5tQtO_x9jTYIm9-CQIj8_Y1dZlAJrPT41yj3ulB_tIJdI6vHzxT1qLRfo_R1SgJm9RsUpF3JW47VHCUjvLQRHGJLpf73mhi5rHT0a0/s1600/10.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimBUBIjq_-g_L_gMlhessMGLTqBa0vVIiovLRXU5tQtO_x9jTYIm9-CQIj8_Y1dZlAJrPT41yj3ulB_tIJdI6vHzxT1qLRfo_R1SgJm9RsUpF3JW47VHCUjvLQRHGJLpf73mhi5rHT0a0/s400/10.jpg" /></a><br />
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Sarah on the Matier Glacier:<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEzqxiTtSkqzg0B45e-qx8g_B1_0sY6FlXbcNcFWIuQEErua3rHoI4ZyfpiLzc2HpE3VIk1QIfS-FfaGdyNSFQ2viQ4QX3Z1M1THLMgfnAlxDR5n-Gk3t8RC9lRyif8CY4PkW28lM0IDg/s1600/11.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEzqxiTtSkqzg0B45e-qx8g_B1_0sY6FlXbcNcFWIuQEErua3rHoI4ZyfpiLzc2HpE3VIk1QIfS-FfaGdyNSFQ2viQ4QX3Z1M1THLMgfnAlxDR5n-Gk3t8RC9lRyif8CY4PkW28lM0IDg/s400/11.jpg" /></a><br />
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Sarah top-roping some gently overhanging ice on the Matier Glacier:<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgviotl2ic5xhAa40RpKeH80Pc_R6kMwFRbe-T2icFwVRgMSO9_RRFHENyyXMvidLIcyTKdk4TKnJSgKtJRgrZIraJNr-zDfU3X8s1ef1hK4ywL7WbZhT9BI6tcHGnj6ZMidG1vALde2Fk/s1600/12.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgviotl2ic5xhAa40RpKeH80Pc_R6kMwFRbe-T2icFwVRgMSO9_RRFHENyyXMvidLIcyTKdk4TKnJSgKtJRgrZIraJNr-zDfU3X8s1ef1hK4ywL7WbZhT9BI6tcHGnj6ZMidG1vALde2Fk/s400/12.jpg" /></a><br />
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Sarah and I went out one day recently on the Chief with local photographer Chris Christie, to try and make a few cool photos, and have a go at the 5.12a pitch on the Lower Black Dyke. Photo by Chris Christie:<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1sYH22y8usKP44Ozt_CrHQBxvKR39RQfLdTwhkfK4u6mBVR4yBknR8HTnzCdCyS1w0mKGnfzL6vTwJbyD6a8tFvBs5E0v_O0NIk3PcNHo5Nkevwlu3_0e1bQsWuNgywlolhzX81wTrqQ/s1600/13.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1sYH22y8usKP44Ozt_CrHQBxvKR39RQfLdTwhkfK4u6mBVR4yBknR8HTnzCdCyS1w0mKGnfzL6vTwJbyD6a8tFvBs5E0v_O0NIk3PcNHo5Nkevwlu3_0e1bQsWuNgywlolhzX81wTrqQ/s400/13.jpg" /></a><br />
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I tried to onsight the pitch, but ran out of gas after the first few bolts. I've heard some people speculate that this pitch is no longer 5.12a because some holds have broken off. I think it actually is 5.12a, but because there is no chalk on it you get really pumped groping around trying to find the right holds. If it were as chalked-up as the average 5.12a at Pet Wall or Cheakamus, I don't think it would feel any harder. There was one scary, hollow, block, about the size of a small microwave, but otherwise the pitch was reasonably solid. If someone took the time (in mid-winter!) to re-clean the Lower Black Dyke, I think it has the potential to be a super cool route. There are so many climbers in Squamish these days who are up for the grade that I bet it would see more traffic than it did after the last cleaning. Photo by Chris Christie:<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhc4gUjf9h2M2YwVwROdvaah3iTRA7s6Vqpk3AeG5RhnUXYxqTfT-anqT_S9WF-PQmAgs_DTunvJcpQ9LwXC2k7AqYkcI5z6PLuyHh_bMhmreOakzDACQnNbq1hLL5DEdtLIpdpoFgfkAY/s1600/14.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhc4gUjf9h2M2YwVwROdvaah3iTRA7s6Vqpk3AeG5RhnUXYxqTfT-anqT_S9WF-PQmAgs_DTunvJcpQ9LwXC2k7AqYkcI5z6PLuyHh_bMhmreOakzDACQnNbq1hLL5DEdtLIpdpoFgfkAY/s400/14.jpg" /></a><br />
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Sarah having a go on the same pitch. Photo by Chris Christie:<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgj7bN8MnVjJXgFuECkmwJgZYQ2ngFNVvKL8nO72tmjfuHY7YQEmyxG2cPXX-bnZk3k4cFnoQm8vNadNL7h8K1SY4kOlrzzHqSWwXPiOMiAuiEgfgdci9BhcfaL84AkJRXjplA53tYMUK8/s1600/15.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgj7bN8MnVjJXgFuECkmwJgZYQ2ngFNVvKL8nO72tmjfuHY7YQEmyxG2cPXX-bnZk3k4cFnoQm8vNadNL7h8K1SY4kOlrzzHqSWwXPiOMiAuiEgfgdci9BhcfaL84AkJRXjplA53tYMUK8/s400/15.jpg" /></a><br />
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Myself on the lower part of "Freewill," a few days before sending. Photo by our friend Jamie Finlayson, who could offer helpful beta and encouragement, considering that he often warms up with a burn on "Freewill!":<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaCFt-WAdg2KlZElsTB5ED8G4fLgtaDY2KXcpqwXSAy_T8amWkzQV_lyMuDt4LSqBkN3HqJvOoUz4itL3o_4f_u1Wl4qe-W9EWyro9Az-LPlE5QoqI8vRvxy4o_hlGdl17drJlmXEDBHs/s1600/16.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaCFt-WAdg2KlZElsTB5ED8G4fLgtaDY2KXcpqwXSAy_T8amWkzQV_lyMuDt4LSqBkN3HqJvOoUz4itL3o_4f_u1Wl4qe-W9EWyro9Az-LPlE5QoqI8vRvxy4o_hlGdl17drJlmXEDBHs/s400/16.jpg" /></a><br />
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A couple moves higher on "Freewill." Photo by Jamie Finlayson:<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9DXI0tKc3198kn3D7WqfMwSB26EXM8WJbIgC4cBN63ZX9V8RMfzOWBRs5NekvM_xJZna6OuLRb-46CsiaeGHFt3U3lDNVx-baD7aqdx52n7QUUHiNuZof1qoJDP6aVujwTCMAd-dsdpg/s1600/17.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9DXI0tKc3198kn3D7WqfMwSB26EXM8WJbIgC4cBN63ZX9V8RMfzOWBRs5NekvM_xJZna6OuLRb-46CsiaeGHFt3U3lDNVx-baD7aqdx52n7QUUHiNuZof1qoJDP6aVujwTCMAd-dsdpg/s400/17.jpg" /></a><br />
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As usual, cutting my feet midway through the crux fingerlock sequence. Photo by Jamie Finlayson:<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHNoQarCQALVvP8Mu36CB2cD6DtVrVSTb9mzgAIxpADQ7dPF33lU4ovOBC8wltGLQOEDXSciVArj_GBTwyRVD1iCKNxnbrv6OUz2F1wU4ydeq5KULuVwcOnj8UneMnE38lyC9k48ZaBT4/s1600/18.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHNoQarCQALVvP8Mu36CB2cD6DtVrVSTb9mzgAIxpADQ7dPF33lU4ovOBC8wltGLQOEDXSciVArj_GBTwyRVD1iCKNxnbrv6OUz2F1wU4ydeq5KULuVwcOnj8UneMnE38lyC9k48ZaBT4/s400/18.jpg" /></a><br />
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Sarah sending "Heifer Down," (5.12d), at the same crag. Photo by Jamie Finlayson.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqzGDKex0E0LPcwCoY5GAQT5ZbT8wrLQ2XGJ8-YkrkDfPVCJWVvuq5OtJg6yK46qfi7wp58x1GTAnKlDUqqGVYG09g3q16BNQikM9V5YkKsLF8IE9ODxOKpXc5CcxcpOGtabjTud4jfAY/s1600/19.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqzGDKex0E0LPcwCoY5GAQT5ZbT8wrLQ2XGJ8-YkrkDfPVCJWVvuq5OtJg6yK46qfi7wp58x1GTAnKlDUqqGVYG09g3q16BNQikM9V5YkKsLF8IE9ODxOKpXc5CcxcpOGtabjTud4jfAY/s400/19.jpg" /></a><br />
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Sarah working the lower part of "Freewill." Photo by Jamie Finlayson:<br />
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Sarah catching some air on "Freewill." Photo by Jamie Finlayson:<br />
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</div>Colinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13983021751924748485noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4333132788232790338.post-10983020142748614522013-08-08T15:40:00.000-07:002013-08-08T15:40:58.755-07:00Spring in North America - Skiing and Crevasse Falls!NOTE: THIS IS A BLOG POST THAT I WROTE IN EARLY JUNE. IT'S ONLY TWO MONTHS OLD!<br />
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It's been an odd spring for me. Always for me the most difficult aspect of my Patagonia addiction is the conflict it creates with my skiing addiction, and after spending most of the winter in the Austral summer, I usually return home very eager to ski. This year was no exception, and after returning to Seattle I did my best to catch up, skiing nearly every day of my first week at home. The one cool thing about starting your ski season in mid March is that my first day of the season was an awesome powder day, with a snowpack of multiple meters!<br />
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At the end of March I left for a climbing trip in Alaska's St. Elias range with Portlanders John Frieh and Daniel Harro. We were flown into the range by Paul Claus, midday on April 1st. We spent a few hours setting up our basecamp, and then went for a short ski up-glacier to scope our objective. About twenty minutes out of camp I suddenly broke through a totally-hidden crevasse, and fell approximately 15 meters down, ricocheting off the walls of the crevasse. We had left camp for our leisurely ski with essentially no equipment, so Daniel immediately skied back to camp to fetch a rope, crampons, ice tools, and harnesses. I was able to climb out of the crevasse with a top-rope (and even managed to rescue my skis and poles!), and fortunately I escaped any truly serious injuries. Unfortunately, however, I had a fractured cheek bone, and my trip was over. We skied back to camp, and the next morning I flew off the glacier, for a total of about 16 hours in the St. Elias range! For those who are interested, I'll include below a more in-depth analysis of my crevasse accident.<br />
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So, rather than climbing new routes in Alaska, I spent most of April recuperating in Seattle. For the first week I had a very swollen face, and I was spitting blood for about 10 days. The first two doctors that I talked to, both oral surgeons in private practice, were eager to schedule surgery straight away. Fortunately I got a third opinion from a well-respected doctor at Harborview who strongly advised against surgery. So, I managed to escape the knife and my face feels to have healed up well, with only very subtle changes in symmetry. My smile is a bit crooked now, but I figure that just makes me look more like a pirate or Fred Beckey!<br />
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After a couple weeks of nearly zero physical activity, I started going for walks and to the climbing gym, and then finally ski touring again. For my first day back on skis, I headed up on Mt. Shuksan with my girlfriend, Sarah Hart. We planned to ski the North Face, but while skinning up the White Salmon Glacier we watched four skiers descend the Northwest Couloir, a line I've always wanted to ski. Because I had never skied it before, I figured some tracks to follow would be a nice way to learn the run, and Sarah and I decided on the spot to ski the Northwest Couloir instead. This was a bad decision! Sarah has only been skiing for five years, and this was her second day of the season. She is a natural athlete, and the North Face would've been fine for her, but I didn't realize that the Northwest Couloir is a significantly steeper, more serious ski run. Needless to say she didn't enjoy the descent very much (Sorry, Sarah!), but we're both very glad that she didn't fall!<br />
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At the end of April Sarah and I headed to Canmore, Alberta, and spent the month of May sport climbing and skiing in the Rockies. I did a bunch of skiing with Rockies hard-man Jon Walsh, and Ptor Spricenieks, the Latvian ski machine. Ptor now lives in La Grave, but has been skiing in the Canadian Rockies for a long time, and among his exploits was the first descent of the North Face of Mt. Robson, surely one of the classiest ski mountaineering objectives anywhere! Sarah and I just made our way back to the West/Best/Left Coast, and the prime Squamish season will be starting imminently - time to start training for Patagonia!<br />
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Colin skiing across the glacier, shortly before falling in the crevasse. Photo by John Frieh:<br />
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Uh-oh! Photo by John Frieh:<br />
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Looking down the crevasse I fell in, it's just possible to see my light-blue jacket. Photo by John Frieh:<br />
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Sarah starting down the Northwest Couloir of Mt. Shuksan:<br />
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Looking down at an exposed traverse, half-way down the Northwest Couloir of Mt. Shuksan:<br />
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Sarah on the mellower lower section of Shuksan's Northwest Couloir:<br />
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Sarah showing her feelings for Shuksan's Northwest Couloir:<br />
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Sarah feeling a bit more relaxed, skiing on Tahoma:<br />
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Sarah skinning up Fairview Mountain, above Lake Louise:<br />
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Sarah dropping into the north side of Surprise Pass, above Lake Louise:<br />
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Dust on crust, but at least the crust was smooth! Sarah coming down from Surprise Pass, above Lake Louise:<br />
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Colin coming up the West Face of Mt. Lefroy. Photo by Jon Walsh:<br />
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Colin on the summit ridge of Mt. Lefroy. Without real climbing gear, the cornices looked too sketchy to try to tag the summit. Photo by Jon Walsh:<br />
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Jon testing the waters at the top of Mt. Lefroy's West Face:<br />
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Colin skiing on the West Face of Mt. Lefroy. Photo by Jon Walsh:<br />
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Jon skiing on the West Face of Mt. Lefroy:<br />
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Colin skiing lower down on Mt. Lefroy's West Face. Photo by Jon Walsh:<br />
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Ptor Spricenieks kicking steps up Mt. Athabasca's Silverhorn. A suspect windslab told us to turn around a short ways up the Silverhorn:<br />
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Ptor skiing on the lower part of Mt. Athabasca's Silverhorn. Photo by Jon Walsh:<br />
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Colin skiing on the lower part of Mt. Athabasca's Silverhorn. Photo by Jon Walsh:<br />
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Ptor skiing on the glacier below the North Face of Athabasca. Photo by Jon Walsh:<br />
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Colin skiing on the glacier below the North Face of Athabasca. Photo by Jon Walsh:<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKU6vB3ejY13FOWPD67xIOzvSFYjx4bzRiNmGziXSlkELVlpMRy7icB2JqCVukLNOFTmuvICB6x4VcWZ2Ik8GJEmbarKc93iZJ-OszGxSbzxVx5CPG83yktdec_oqOnMNGNUtF2qTAmOg/s1600/22.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKU6vB3ejY13FOWPD67xIOzvSFYjx4bzRiNmGziXSlkELVlpMRy7icB2JqCVukLNOFTmuvICB6x4VcWZ2Ik8GJEmbarKc93iZJ-OszGxSbzxVx5CPG83yktdec_oqOnMNGNUtF2qTAmOg/s400/22.jpg" /></a><br />
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Colin skiing on the glacier below the North Face of Athabasca. Photo by Jon Walsh:<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8AVI8erJHuQ-yaa2Jftj1nBc0WSv8JBmjFv68-8fdRavAiE6tlyEgb0O65TSsNIuFic8_yn0bXuqCSqCIwXDlDMcaGBrSvEf2jIh2h5xCv-imIvcU9I4V8UjMulqLPq8xLo_-kDDHedg/s1600/23.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8AVI8erJHuQ-yaa2Jftj1nBc0WSv8JBmjFv68-8fdRavAiE6tlyEgb0O65TSsNIuFic8_yn0bXuqCSqCIwXDlDMcaGBrSvEf2jIh2h5xCv-imIvcU9I4V8UjMulqLPq8xLo_-kDDHedg/s400/23.jpg" /></a><br />
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Jon coming up the Skyladder route on Mt. Andromeda:<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFbQpWGlrf68A_3YHbLol7vLlxklRP0QyHldI8d2SYFyudtAiGA1fivOXT1cnpxpkA2zDq-yGnsqtBdlkpVI0G5VZiA_CKVTfxX5EWpSTF9xdSkqKL0_lF4MQegrF8WGero3NomXVcl0E/s1600/24.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFbQpWGlrf68A_3YHbLol7vLlxklRP0QyHldI8d2SYFyudtAiGA1fivOXT1cnpxpkA2zDq-yGnsqtBdlkpVI0G5VZiA_CKVTfxX5EWpSTF9xdSkqKL0_lF4MQegrF8WGero3NomXVcl0E/s400/24.jpg" /></a><br />
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The Latvian ski machine skinning to the summit of Mt. Andromeda:<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh20g7kWeIjvF3TORhHByNaplnsUCkQOuyKFgyYw747SUssSzXiwwMgUTP5DXen5skf1hyphenhyphenhm-61wlXIWfrw11TV2_wszrGt39Ek8txqLrEXavjDomursvZHfeGn3jKTYw3riY3VqtQBoPI/s1600/25.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh20g7kWeIjvF3TORhHByNaplnsUCkQOuyKFgyYw747SUssSzXiwwMgUTP5DXen5skf1hyphenhyphenhm-61wlXIWfrw11TV2_wszrGt39Ek8txqLrEXavjDomursvZHfeGn3jKTYw3riY3VqtQBoPI/s400/25.jpg" /></a><br />
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Ptor skiing the Skyladder route on Mt. Andromeda. Photo by Jon Walsh:<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCJDReDZQekBmFwBDsunCVgd7JanpSJNv0IzId1AI8K99kJflVm4vTuGKLSoStlgsCdPPUbzKOZhcZ7-gc7z_uGmHhC_tOZOAHnVHF-JejZTtB-P7okuWBkGI4IwORkdQqQDbNBRwKaNA/s1600/26.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCJDReDZQekBmFwBDsunCVgd7JanpSJNv0IzId1AI8K99kJflVm4vTuGKLSoStlgsCdPPUbzKOZhcZ7-gc7z_uGmHhC_tOZOAHnVHF-JejZTtB-P7okuWBkGI4IwORkdQqQDbNBRwKaNA/s400/26.jpg" /></a><br />
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Colin skiing the Skyladder route on Mt. Andromeda. Photo by Jon Walsh:<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjNXacBiO4b0-9166dRFeRsr4pXtEeYK3bWgBKOnsMPhjDHfmJSHsiWRDnK8CAIrLYEbQTwJuzePYhK5Xi9uIZhVvCKGXQtaco6Hy3ceqrIiqDbc2plNq5eACccmyLaMkXOTpJ1KD2aEo/s1600/27.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjNXacBiO4b0-9166dRFeRsr4pXtEeYK3bWgBKOnsMPhjDHfmJSHsiWRDnK8CAIrLYEbQTwJuzePYhK5Xi9uIZhVvCKGXQtaco6Hy3ceqrIiqDbc2plNq5eACccmyLaMkXOTpJ1KD2aEo/s400/27.jpg" /></a><br />
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Jon skiing on the lower part of Skyladder:<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiu7y7PO0MrqfwKLouC2xmfakSK9AXDVCFVrXKyQh-NanZ4l0RFIhB01Vt779mYdRpcC968_vD9un2XtoBe2ysVvB5ULc3rCLarbXsKk3fIIORxsAJ7gCb8tVJOJW_I7zaiIUn0yfU5YbM/s1600/28.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiu7y7PO0MrqfwKLouC2xmfakSK9AXDVCFVrXKyQh-NanZ4l0RFIhB01Vt779mYdRpcC968_vD9un2XtoBe2ysVvB5ULc3rCLarbXsKk3fIIORxsAJ7gCb8tVJOJW_I7zaiIUn0yfU5YbM/s400/28.jpg" /></a><br />
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Ptor and Jon skinning up the Southwest Ridge of Mt. Temple:<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2YhmPbxi8yWvRYHhtwoT0xMmdhmpOFYf0j7gCw-oVhjAkqxfu93g_vZBsIhLZGAudYLLFxwKCC3FzqaVnbzhpynhgDyGnk-Nl9T1zOPQYpfkB9gD1BWK1eTq0weu7GmXzF4OjDy-uVQk/s1600/29.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2YhmPbxi8yWvRYHhtwoT0xMmdhmpOFYf0j7gCw-oVhjAkqxfu93g_vZBsIhLZGAudYLLFxwKCC3FzqaVnbzhpynhgDyGnk-Nl9T1zOPQYpfkB9gD1BWK1eTq0weu7GmXzF4OjDy-uVQk/s400/29.jpg" /></a><br />
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Ptor scoping the best place to drop in on Mt. Temple's southwest face:<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUtK6a5dnkJlTNOJ9EgiGH4HPmHqIq2QgC3z4djZmnx1J5EZtI_rMlE8eKNvkt1Hkw7HjSn7XBj-2_Q75tVCFmFfS8JfA34vQYDCDDRLfbJjJMhEf9_BpM0mus2JsLVwvcFWF2jLhgN8M/s1600/30.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUtK6a5dnkJlTNOJ9EgiGH4HPmHqIq2QgC3z4djZmnx1J5EZtI_rMlE8eKNvkt1Hkw7HjSn7XBj-2_Q75tVCFmFfS8JfA34vQYDCDDRLfbJjJMhEf9_BpM0mus2JsLVwvcFWF2jLhgN8M/s400/30.jpg" /></a><br />
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Colin skiing on the southwest face of Mt. Temple. Photo by Jon Walsh:<br />
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<br />
A MORE IN-DEPTH ANALYSIS OF MY CREVASSE ACCIDENT<br />
<br />
This crevasse fall is what I consider to be my fifth close call in the mountains. I'm fortunate to have come away mostly unscathed every time, but if I'm not taking away injuries, hopefully I am at least taking away lessons. Let me start out first with a more detailed account of the accident:<br />
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When I broke through the hidden crevasse bridge, in the first instant I actually wasn't worried - for some reason it felt like I was just collapsing a soft spot of snow. However, an instant later, when I realized I was falling a long ways down, I specifically remember thinking, "Oh, shit. This is serious. This could be really bad." The fall happened really quickly, and the next thing I knew I was wedged in the bottom of the crevasse, panting. I was pumped full of adrenaline, but I never felt panicked, and with just a quick glimpse upwards, I never had any doubt that I would get out of the crevasse. Since I hit my face against one of the crevasse walls hard enough to fracture my cheek bone, it's quite possible that I briefly blacked out, although it's actually really difficult to tell for sure. I didn't FEEL like I blacked out, but I did seem to suddenly find myself in the bottom of the crevasse, without a specific recollection of exactly how I came to rest. More likely, I think that during the fall my mind went into a pure survival-reaction mode, so that it wasn't recording memories for the second that I was falling. I have some half-memories from the fall, such as that I vaguely recall breaking through some ice, and I vaguely recall the instant of smacking my face against the wall.<br />
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I had been skiing with my sleeves rolled up and my gloves off, so my hands and lower arms were covered with scrapes and cuts. Otherwise I felt to be mostly OK, although when I touched my face I could feel already that it was swollen. My nose was running, so I instinctually made a snot-rocket. When I blew my nose I had a bizarre feeling of air being pushed through my eye socket, and then I figured I might have a real injury. I started to spit up blood, and that seemed to confirm my suspicions!<br />
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It seemed to be very quick that John caught up, and yelled down to me. I already had a clear idea of how to get out, and I immediately yelled to John that someone needed to go get my crampons, my ice tools, my harness, some slings and 'biners, and a rope. Daniel took off back towards camp to fetch the equipment, and I started working on my situation.<br />
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When I broke through the crevasse bridge, my skis had been parallel to the crevasse, and I remained in that orientation during the fall, so that when I came to rest I was facing down the length of the crevasse. I have my approach skis set to generally never release, so one of my skis was still on my foot, while the other ski seemed to have come off right when I stopped, because it was off my boot, but positioned with the binding just below my foot. Most of my weight was on my feet, on my skis, and I think that my skis really helped me not become wedged more tightly. In the position that I was in, I had no chance to put on a harness or crampons because I was wedged too tightly. Above me the crevasse quickly got wider, and about two meters up I saw a sort of saddle/fin of ice that bridged the walls - I figured I needed to climb up to there.<br />
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Climbing just two meters up proved to be very difficult. If I had been wearing crampons and with ice tools in my hands, it would have been absolutely dead easy, but climbing up hard, blue glacial ice without that equipment is really, really slippery! Also, extricating myself from my wedged position was not easy, because it was tight enough that I couldn't turn either of my feet around until I got them a couple feet higher. I was lucky that the ice was surprisingly featured, and I managed to climb up to the ice fin with a combination of chimneying, manteling, and crimping little ice edges with my bare, bloody fingers.<br />
<br />
When I reached the ice fin I straddled it as if I were horse-back riding, and finally I had a position that was somewhat restful. I had been wearing my small backpack all this time, and finally now I was able to take my gloves and jacket out to put them on. John was even able to chuck his puffy down to me, I was able to catch it, and then I was decently warm. At this point I had about 20-25 minutes of sitting on the ice fin, waiting for Daniel to get back from basecamp with the technical equipment. I guess at this point the adrenaline started to wear off, and I suddenly felt extremely tired and sleepy. I was in a decently restful position, but I would've fallen off the ice fin if I had lost consciousness. I felt that I had to fight to not pass out, by intentionally hyperventilating, and shaking my upper body.<br />
<br />
When Daniel got back from his wind-sprint with the technical equipment, I was finally able to properly work on getting out of the crevasse. It took a few tries, but John was able to toss an end of rope that I was able to catch, and then he lowered down my crampons. Even straddling the ice fin was still a really difficult position to move in, and getting my crampons on was difficult, but once they were on my feet it changed everything. With crampons on, even without ice tools, I was very easily able to chimney a couple meters higher, to where there was a small ledge to stand on. From that ledge I had much more room to move, and now I was able to put on my harness that John lowered, followed by my ice tools. At this point, getting out was easy - simply a matter of climbing some AI3 with a tight toprope. I was even able to lower down a bit and retrieve both my skis and poles.<br />
<br />
Once back on the surface of the glacier, Daniel gave me a quick examination (he is a fire-fighter, and therefore also paramedic), and then we took off back towards camp, because it was almost dark by now. Back in camp I wondered if I might be able to stay and climb, but it didn't take long to realize that would be a stupid decision. With a fractured bone in my face it didn't make sense to stay in the middle of nowhere, especially considering the weather was then good enough to fly a ski plane, and most of the time it isn't. We were able to get through to Paul Claus by sat phone, and called for him to pick me up in the morning. One thing that I found really surprising is that despite impacting my face so hard to fracture my zygomatic bone (cheek bone) in three places (the three places it attaches to the bones around it), I had only very minor pain, and never experienced any significant pain during the entire healing process. A bit of minor frostbite on my toes a few years ago was vastly more painful!<br />
<br />
I was of course both lucky and unlucky in this incident. It obviously can't be considered lucky to take a 15-meter crevasse fall, but I am quite lucky to have only fractured my cheek bone in such a large fall, and not my legs! I think it is really fortunate that I didn't invert during the fall, because if I had landed on my head, especially without a helmet, it likely would've had very bad consequences.<br />
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This accident has undoubtably made me more wary of glacier-travel, even though it's already something I've been doing extensively and very regularly for over fifteen years. I'm sure I will continue to do some occasional solo travel on glaciers, but I absolutely view solo glacier travel much more seriously now. When I was fourteen years old I took a glacier travel and crevasse rescue course from The Mountaineers, and it gave me a good foundation of knowledge about crevasse rescue. However, as with everything they teach, The Mountaineers teach an extremely prudent version of glacier travel, such as that you should always be roped up at any time on any glacier, that you always need to pre-rig your prussiks on the rope, and that you should always be wearing a helmet. Personally, I still have zero doubt there are many situations when it is appropriate to be un-roped on a glacier, and I still will probably never pre-rig my prussiks, and I still will very often travel on glaciers without wearing a helmet. However, this accident has made me come to some important conclusions about glacier-travel safety, and I'll share them as clearly as possible here:<br />
<br />
1) THE CLIMATE AND SNOWPACK PLAY A HUGE ROLE IN CREVASSE HAZARD<br />
<br />
The area of the St. Elias where we were is a dry area. We arrived at the start of April, and the total snowpack in our basecamp was a mere meter of dry, light snow. It is a "dry glacier" (one of exposed, scree-covered ice in the summertime), like the Torre Glacier in Patagonia. I think that glaciers like this (with a huge amount of ice below the firn line, in the ablation zone) generally exist in places that are cold enough to sustain large glaciers, but with low accumulation rates.<br />
The crevasse that I fell into was at least two meters wide, and the bridge across it was never thicker than 40cm, across the entire gap. This wide, super-thin snowbridge was not sagging even the tiniest amount, which is why I didn't have any clue it was there. Such a thin snowbridge, likely formed during a snow storm many weeks earlier, didn't sag at all because it was in such a cold, dry environment, especially during the winter. In The Cascades, Chamonix, or the BC Coast Range, a snowbridge of those dimensions would've been undoubtably sagging, and it would've been obvious that there was a crevasse there.<br />
Basically, I have realized from this incident that crevasse hazard is much, much higher in relatively dry glaciated environments, because the snowbridges are often very weak, and often very well hidden. This is why there are so many crevasse accidents in the Canadian Rockies. The mountains where I learned glacier travel, The Cascades, have likely some of the safest glacier travel in the world, because they are extremely "wet" glaciers, with enormous annual rates of accumulation and ablation. In The Cascades, probably the only time with comparable crevasse hazard to the Canadian Rockies, is in the autumn (October or November), when the crevasses are very freshly bridged by thin, weak bridges. By March, when the glaciers often have literally several meters of seasonal snowpack on them, the crevasse bridges are extremely solid.<br />
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2) SKIS ARE A MIXED BLESSING<br />
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Most of us have all been taught that having skis on your feet makes glacier travel safer, and there's no doubt that this is generally true. However, in my crevasse incident, I think it actually would've been avoided completely if I weren't wearing skis. This is because, if I had been on foot, then the moment I stepped off of the solid ice, I would've punched a leg through the edge of the snowbridge (something I have done many, many times before), and most likely I wouldn't have fallen in. Because I had skis on, I was able to ski well past the edge of the solid ice, and I never broke through the snowbridge until I was in the middle of it. In other words, if you have skis on you're less likely to ever break through a snowbridge than on foot, but you're more likely to break through the snowbridge completely (a proper crevasse fall) if you break through at all.<br />
Of course in practice we will all decide to ski or walk based on the snow conditions and the efficiency of travel, but it's worth keeping in mind that skis sometimes (and in the case of my accident) will make the crevasse danger greater, despite the general rule to the opposite.<br />
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3) A PARTNER IS A GOOD IDEA<br />
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This one's a no-brainer, but still worth mentioning. My crevasse accident is a perfect example of how much safety a climbing partner can provide compared to solo glacier travel, even if you aren't roped up.<br />
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<br />
4) WEAR YOUR HARNESS<br />
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The typical practice for skiing in Chamonix is to rarely be roped up, but always wear your harness with some basic crevasse rescue kit on it, and each person carries a 30m glacier rope to send down to a partner. I have often been cavalier about this practice, figuring that if I wasn't roped up there wasn't much point in wearing my harness, but I now realize this is quite wrong.<br />
This accident has shown me that even if you are unroped, having your harness on makes your ability to deal with a crevasse fall much better. In my case, it was very difficult to get to a position where I could put my harness on, and I was lucky that it was possible at all, and that was with only minor injuries.<br />
The real problem is getting wedged in the bottom of the crevasse. I was lucky to not have gotten wedged very badly, but it was tight enough to really open my eyes, and I realize now how extremely, extremely difficult it might be to move in a tightly wedged position. If you are tightly wedged, the chance of managing to clip a locking 'biner onto your belay loop with one hand, is much, much better than trying to tie the rope around your waist.<br />
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5) USE YOUR UMBILICALS<br />
<br />
I have often used my ice-tool umbilicals while walking on glaciers, and this accident has confirmed to me that it is a good idea. Anytime you are in a crevasse, your ice tools will be very useful to you, and if you happen to be by yourself, your ice tools provide your only significant chance of self-rescue (aside from perhaps aiding off of two ice screws). In my crevasse fall, I completely dropped both of my ski poles during the fall, despite having wrist loops on my wrists. I think the chance of dropping your ice tools out of your hands during a crevasse fall is really high, and using umbilicals will make you much more likely to still have ice tools when you stop falling.<br />
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6) USE YOUR CRAMPONS<br />
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Like wearing skis or not, realistically, we will all decide to wear crampons or not depending on the snow conditions. If I had been wearing crampons when I fell in the crevasse the chance might have been higher of breaking my ankles, but this incident has made me realize how extremely advantageous it would have been to have them on my feet already. If not on your feet, your crampons should be at the very top of your backpack, not buried in the very bottom. Also, it goes without saying that you should ALWAYS have your crampons adjusted to your boots before you leave home, since many of use switch between different pairs of boots - don't just throw them in your pack and plan to adjust them in the bottom of a crevasse!<br />
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<br />
7) WEAR YOUR HELMET, PERHAPS<br />
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When most of us finish the rappels off of a face and get ready to slog across a glacier back towards home, we are very eager to take our helmets off. I'm sure I will very rarely ever carry a helmet solely for crevasse hazard, but if you are carrying a helmet anyways (for the technical climbing), then you might as well carry it on your head if you can stand wearing it a bit longer.<br />
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8) TECHNICAL CLIMBING SKILLS ARE USEFUL<br />
<br />
I have always felt that being an experienced technical climber would be advantageous in a crevasse fall scenario, and this incident confirms that theory for me. My crampon-less ice chimneying up to the ice fin felt like mid 5.11. Even if you are roped up, I have no doubt that a strong technical climber will be much faster and more competent at simply prussiking up a skinny rope (especially if he/she has any broken limbs). And, obviously, if you are by yourself, then being able to solo vertical ice is pretty much your only chance of getting out.<br />
<br />
9) AN IMPORTANT DISCLAIMER<br />
<br />
Any un-roped crevasse falls are really, really sketchy and not a good idea! It is obviously most prudent to follow The Mountaineers' advice, and simply always be roped up on every glacier. I wanted to share my conclusions simply because I know there are many people such as myself who travel on glaciers unroped at times, and some of these conclusions you wouldn't be taught during a typical glacier travel course. Reader beware though, this is sketchy stuff, and while I mention it casually in this discussion, the thought of taking a crevasse fall while by yourself is REALLY SCARY STUFF!<br />
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</div>Colinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13983021751924748485noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4333132788232790338.post-64372037099671376882013-03-26T12:18:00.000-07:002013-03-26T12:18:28.267-07:00Adela TraverseI have been back home in Seattle for the past week, and while I often feel that life in Chalten is very busy, life in Seattle is busier yet. After missing all of the Northern Hemisphere winter I have been out skiing almost every day - the thing I miss most during extended stays in Patagonia. Thus, it has taken me some time to finally write about my last climb of the 2012-2013 Patagonia season.<br />
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There was an exceptionally good weather window during my last week in Chalten. However, rock routes were fairly snowed up, temperatures were chilly, and by mid March the nights are pretty long and cold. Sarah had a cold, so I headed by myself to the Adela Peaks, which I have always wanted to try, and seemed to fit the conditions well. <br />
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I hiked into Niponino on March 11th. On the 12th I slept in, and then took a leisurely second approach day, scrambling up the large buttress that separates the Glaciar Adela and Glaciar Grande Superior (and is essentially an extension of the east ridge of Cerro Adela Sur). I bivied on the top of this buttress, and on March 13 I started hiking up the Glaciar Grande Superior towards Col Trento. In mid March the fresh snow does not consolidate as quickly as in mid-summer, and I quickly found myself post-holing through the snow from the last storm. When I had finally made it across the glacier, I started up the east slopes of Col Trento. This icefall turned out to be much more complicated and time-consuming than I had anticipated, and also the serac hazard on the lower portion was more severe than it had looked from far away - I will definitely try to avoid this icefall in the future! <br />
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At the Col Trento I took a brew stop, and then left my bivouac equipment there while I took off to tackle Cerro Adela. The north-south ridges of Cerro Adela were wind-swept, and the good snow conditions were a relief after all the toil up to the Col Trento. It had taken me over six hours to reach Col Trento, and then it took me only an hour and a half from Col Trento to reach all three summits of Cerro Adela - confirmation that, as always, conditions make all the difference. Cerro Adela Sur and Cerro Adela Central were both quite easy, but with cool ambiance, sneaking through a maze of rime mushrooms. Cerro Adela Norte would have also been quite easy, except for one unavoidable step of steep climbing just below the summit - a 6 meter step of vertical to overhanging ice and snow-ice, the last couple meters of which I aided off of ice screws and a snow picket. I think my visit of Cerro Adela Norte might have been only the third ascent of this summit (the first in 1988 by Eduardo Brenner and Silvia FitzPatrick, and the second just last season by Max O'Dell, Agustin Raselli and Juan Raselli). I re-traced my steps over Adela Central and Adela Sur in the evening light, grabbed my bivouac equipment at Col Trento, and then climbed part-way up the north ridge of Cerro El Ñato, to a nice bivouac spot shortly below the summit.<br />
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On the 14th, after another uncomfortably cold bivouac, I climbed the remainder of Cerro El Ñato's north ridge, then descended the southeast ridge to Col Doblado. I climbed Cerro El Doblado via the north ridge, and descended the south side towards Cerro Grande. While traversing to Cerro Grande I climbed Punta Paganella by accident, which is a bump so small that it is cute to be named. I climbed Cerro Grande via the north ridge, unfortunately with all my equipment because I planned to descend the east ridge. From the summit of Cerro Grande the upper east ridge didn't look very appealing to down-solo with a heavy pack, so instead I re-traced my route back down the north ridge. I descended back down to Glaciar Grande Superior from the col between Punta Paganella and Cerro El Doblado. Once back down on the glacier I resumed my post-holing exercises, and slogged across the glacier to the top of the same rock buttress I had used on the approach. I scrambled back down the rock buttress, returning to Niponino around 7pm. I was tired and it would soon be dark, but I had accidentally dropped my sunscreen while climbing up to the Col Trento, and I decided I would rather hike to town by headlamp than fry my face any more than it had been already.<br />
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Hiking to town by headlamp turned out to be serene and enjoyable, with very bright stars overhead, and the bushes already covered in frost by 11pm. Traversing the Adela Peaks was not very technically difficult, but satisfying to visit a bunch of summits I had always wanted to, and a relaxed, scenic finish to a fantastic Patagonia season. The views are exceptional from every summit along the ridge, and I would highly recommend this traverse, or some variation of it, to climbers who are experienced alpinists but aren't interested in the steep rock of the Torres or Fitz peaks.<br />
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The awesome south face of Cerro Torre in the morning light, from the top of the rock buttress where I first bivouaced: <br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidNtbz0G04fFowbx_hSs0tyE3zgzQSNPR90RwlBa_Wx_EfLCoaPFOKMbTkvib2m2itJiGU4XdLSObPsNs1b6gGq88MXfXUfzXm6mEi4PcS451gra6TVaMcBiDZFrpmYzUe_Pf0C-obKTQ/s1600/01.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidNtbz0G04fFowbx_hSs0tyE3zgzQSNPR90RwlBa_Wx_EfLCoaPFOKMbTkvib2m2itJiGU4XdLSObPsNs1b6gGq88MXfXUfzXm6mEi4PcS451gra6TVaMcBiDZFrpmYzUe_Pf0C-obKTQ/s320/01.jpg" /></a><br />
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The slopes leading up to the Col Trento turned out to be much worse than they looked from down here:<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_qsYsY2L4E1lVx3M-aljD0w0Iu0LLxsg0VeTXSxm_yUTRhZk3BS6roRy_bGRouN6BzvnxFse0tJgf98r_YEy8Tc12UNEZ4MnvRqy8u2BYa9ZfNvBkqhBcX_gB3wUrdRflljExo-8ix8w/s1600/02.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_qsYsY2L4E1lVx3M-aljD0w0Iu0LLxsg0VeTXSxm_yUTRhZk3BS6roRy_bGRouN6BzvnxFse0tJgf98r_YEy8Tc12UNEZ4MnvRqy8u2BYa9ZfNvBkqhBcX_gB3wUrdRflljExo-8ix8w/s320/02.jpg" /></a><br />
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The east faces of Cerro Adela from the Glaciar Grande Superior:<br />
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Looking back at the Fitz Roy peaks while slogging up the Glaciar Grande Superior:<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6I_0FSywwv_A99e3kWYB65bo-o26uMPsQzenriOeyK1hI-WbhBtOh2thwXLysNfVNqPF1k_VYsmii41Vr8ojtbKG9S5qRZ-457KyArgvOkrVGQ9N1Vg5RDFP4cfQoBef3C5TMoCn3Dco/s1600/04.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6I_0FSywwv_A99e3kWYB65bo-o26uMPsQzenriOeyK1hI-WbhBtOh2thwXLysNfVNqPF1k_VYsmii41Vr8ojtbKG9S5qRZ-457KyArgvOkrVGQ9N1Vg5RDFP4cfQoBef3C5TMoCn3Dco/s320/04.jpg" /></a><br />
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Looking south towards Cerro Solo and Lago Viedma from about half-way up to Col Trento:<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpy_v_-AsDsrj4y_Gj1E7rNZdmctIUJEUcDEVsgF_scWzdWcMPMQlSpy8Vm9ZE-UhkEgWFmTEHtuXqp3oVyYGtNLXYLJs0OzFEOw8IYQcGgLqZ2XU5KEDO8cMhZJ3faH1QpLK_RopKhjc/s1600/05.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpy_v_-AsDsrj4y_Gj1E7rNZdmctIUJEUcDEVsgF_scWzdWcMPMQlSpy8Vm9ZE-UhkEgWFmTEHtuXqp3oVyYGtNLXYLJs0OzFEOw8IYQcGgLqZ2XU5KEDO8cMhZJ3faH1QpLK_RopKhjc/s320/05.jpg" /></a><br />
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Looking east towards the Fitz Roy peaks from most of the way up to Col Trento:<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0up2zgCmZCR-FrejgUzGnF7AE5fnBCqse0DQAwjQ9L63uE9CmX0V-kQqEy274jm1bnVl79sMzWdxhsO9qQCbF55kCBERvSvhh44q8NEZeOQdfOQikNgDNNysdbeFNZY9mvbvPADwOEig/s1600/06.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0up2zgCmZCR-FrejgUzGnF7AE5fnBCqse0DQAwjQ9L63uE9CmX0V-kQqEy274jm1bnVl79sMzWdxhsO9qQCbF55kCBERvSvhh44q8NEZeOQdfOQikNgDNNysdbeFNZY9mvbvPADwOEig/s320/06.jpg" /></a><br />
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Looking at the Fitz Roy peaks from just below Col Trento:<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUvLoJOfOrR75bppSwdlQxAtbV4T88pn4AxAAyJkCW0EcXv_ZHvXvIOQeSv4sSzuEygvaB6yXHeMkBfOewLFFVL_Avw4qUYPmWdz_oYjvm68Li977edotjL82rEdSucqbK1qYi6Ml8STk/s1600/07.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUvLoJOfOrR75bppSwdlQxAtbV4T88pn4AxAAyJkCW0EcXv_ZHvXvIOQeSv4sSzuEygvaB6yXHeMkBfOewLFFVL_Avw4qUYPmWdz_oYjvm68Li977edotjL82rEdSucqbK1qYi6Ml8STk/s320/07.jpg" /></a><br />
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Looking north at Cerro Adela Central and Cerro Torre from the summit of Cerro Adela Sur:<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipR1HLQwfz-fONa0QBVJInoERKNwx1VfoNNc-g85mGKVQzt1ZdkE1aZkYm5zhHkV88afMMOI6W2w8D0uACaJlb2Tz6JT6-NrGgmzJAfdbyRSdc9XjfbFipSe1ymmxr1ZKogWg_JCbdxWg/s1600/08.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipR1HLQwfz-fONa0QBVJInoERKNwx1VfoNNc-g85mGKVQzt1ZdkE1aZkYm5zhHkV88afMMOI6W2w8D0uACaJlb2Tz6JT6-NrGgmzJAfdbyRSdc9XjfbFipSe1ymmxr1ZKogWg_JCbdxWg/s320/08.jpg" /></a><br />
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Self portrait on the summit of Cerro Adela Sur:<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2WFjuiFV0pKyyqe6Cb-HcCphvY2aieBrQGj-zhI0Wwnr9Ip8KRrfQ5zFjLO6BEk5tFI_X0DSCsbyloZ4le2_Hs8Rks9GXmqbB9z19ZpEiqdrIdmbakfoC4ZaixNi79rShWn4QPcnFiAk/s1600/09.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2WFjuiFV0pKyyqe6Cb-HcCphvY2aieBrQGj-zhI0Wwnr9Ip8KRrfQ5zFjLO6BEk5tFI_X0DSCsbyloZ4le2_Hs8Rks9GXmqbB9z19ZpEiqdrIdmbakfoC4ZaixNi79rShWn4QPcnFiAk/s320/09.jpg" /></a><br />
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On top of Cerro Adela Central, with Cerro Torre and Fitz Roy behind:<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3K_gyXKDII3rwrN-rr9sX0um1L1PyWt7EnncTZsmx-bOGwiKYJNeQFdVQBkaxgBl_9KacNfhLWx_hox0eiMOxGZaPw_UrtcnDQ0ByegXBX-gB7Vr2vHOdozUbV-UM81bjKgceE-8acIM/s1600/10.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3K_gyXKDII3rwrN-rr9sX0um1L1PyWt7EnncTZsmx-bOGwiKYJNeQFdVQBkaxgBl_9KacNfhLWx_hox0eiMOxGZaPw_UrtcnDQ0ByegXBX-gB7Vr2vHOdozUbV-UM81bjKgceE-8acIM/s320/10.jpg" /></a><br />
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Looking towards Cerro Adela Norte while descending from Cerro Adela Central:<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLXGf2EgKoT1mg1fUkypiiAuGnHWxQTSlSNLG0l31fAcemK7N5d3TeVR6QRZh5HJCrq4oVxtFDe8vHXwuFZlbRgMR_iJXNCJ7FIbqws7aZedqeJo7hBA0wO84LADDdVLXqyM_N8dKG0oY/s1600/11.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLXGf2EgKoT1mg1fUkypiiAuGnHWxQTSlSNLG0l31fAcemK7N5d3TeVR6QRZh5HJCrq4oVxtFDe8vHXwuFZlbRgMR_iJXNCJ7FIbqws7aZedqeJo7hBA0wO84LADDdVLXqyM_N8dKG0oY/s320/11.jpg" /></a><br />
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The west side of Cerro Adela Norte, which I briefly reconnoitered, searching for a way to avoid the steep ice step below the summit:<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisYvM14ZTDkNYSFWU7YapDAit1k7GzoS6ztEg1NrEacBvvPJeS4rzODFSOEdwZCM-Fve14KShxdYCiEVUgelxhRiElfdUDg3fPYuGZgG99lCrfPHDPJ1EN-MlDaVV9SaGiDVQAZot42Nc/s1600/12.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisYvM14ZTDkNYSFWU7YapDAit1k7GzoS6ztEg1NrEacBvvPJeS4rzODFSOEdwZCM-Fve14KShxdYCiEVUgelxhRiElfdUDg3fPYuGZgG99lCrfPHDPJ1EN-MlDaVV9SaGiDVQAZot42Nc/s320/12.jpg" /></a><br />
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Aiding the last couple moves of the steep ice step below Cerro Adela Norte's summit:<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMrmTKKHMcTyYqbeMqero4tU6g4Lt6hAZPHzuoOaFqm0kRXc5sX-MyxPG4IydwOa3x1fkhbab_OATumYwNrW0jFuzBbaelTCq437uj57A8YV6NkZCY0i2bcr6rth8q0s-_Cz5YuayCTMY/s1600/13.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMrmTKKHMcTyYqbeMqero4tU6g4Lt6hAZPHzuoOaFqm0kRXc5sX-MyxPG4IydwOa3x1fkhbab_OATumYwNrW0jFuzBbaelTCq437uj57A8YV6NkZCY0i2bcr6rth8q0s-_Cz5YuayCTMY/s320/13.jpg" /></a><br />
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On top of Cerro Adela Norte - my third summit of the day, and I believe the third ascent of this summit:<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGBkdI5N-GLiaYHDJcsd_-Gv_rO5CxKjioNH5QoIpBz6iWxAzcYJCL9WsLZP-X8Y3FXiARGGubSNjYe0u5olb4S4iviEh885bfMAbc9zXqBJzg4aq7wTAu70ZDWNAtiNug9rrbs87_-dU/s1600/14.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGBkdI5N-GLiaYHDJcsd_-Gv_rO5CxKjioNH5QoIpBz6iWxAzcYJCL9WsLZP-X8Y3FXiARGGubSNjYe0u5olb4S4iviEh885bfMAbc9zXqBJzg4aq7wTAu70ZDWNAtiNug9rrbs87_-dU/s320/14.jpg" /></a><br />
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The view of Cerro Rincon and the Marconi Peaks from the summit of Cerro Adela Norte:<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNDhDPVgqI53w5b4BWdP6h06bzG5NB09X82c7AtGzUdA56pXmnleh9dpn6F_0mVJCfzghCwfA7sTAzGT0JaXF9jSyzF69wUjjTR-WmFEuC3gE1n_oC-D8meXFLN6Mkxja1ktfwq1rE1Yc/s1600/15.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNDhDPVgqI53w5b4BWdP6h06bzG5NB09X82c7AtGzUdA56pXmnleh9dpn6F_0mVJCfzghCwfA7sTAzGT0JaXF9jSyzF69wUjjTR-WmFEuC3gE1n_oC-D8meXFLN6Mkxja1ktfwq1rE1Yc/s320/15.jpg" /></a><br />
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Cerro Torre and Fitz Roy from the summit of Cerro Adela Norte - a vista that shows how impressively steep the south face of Cerro Torre is:<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIRBuCvqNzgmJSYoeFGbN-C486lXf_W_PCqGH5ilcpZLiNs8f3PybZxemrzYFLBOjv0P5r7O4dEdSHIk4OBe67MFQiTRfsu6R7rfAlGo7M9LLucJbUkPghgJ0n-mvLxDRa8UI2yOG0Xs0/s1600/16.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIRBuCvqNzgmJSYoeFGbN-C486lXf_W_PCqGH5ilcpZLiNs8f3PybZxemrzYFLBOjv0P5r7O4dEdSHIk4OBe67MFQiTRfsu6R7rfAlGo7M9LLucJbUkPghgJ0n-mvLxDRa8UI2yOG0Xs0/s320/16.jpg" /></a><br />
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The Fitz Roy group from the top of Cerro Adela Norte:<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwsdPmmUL5u_Jr54FyeSr2L6c6dspgqKijwEELcVYGG3J1fC8fhxLSc6DsTOwUXfZCchRP9pepgawniZrTa07eTg3QOQ7_WuOqSfPTEWSJxoUooYCG4jiHx5KIsjT8IjNssSCdJTFLYY8/s1600/17.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwsdPmmUL5u_Jr54FyeSr2L6c6dspgqKijwEELcVYGG3J1fC8fhxLSc6DsTOwUXfZCchRP9pepgawniZrTa07eTg3QOQ7_WuOqSfPTEWSJxoUooYCG4jiHx5KIsjT8IjNssSCdJTFLYY8/s320/17.jpg" /></a><br />
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Looking back at Cerro Adela Central from the top of Adela Norte:<br />
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The ice step just below the summit of Adela Norte, after rappelling back down:<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1KBRMzs9qIATEwNFdg1g_03Oi4JXtzJoN3JK1YtqtolIcl3BgT4xtyZxRWquzyJ8Nn6x0Q73uS_g2MGRjD8oUyMai6GhbqzDpZ8sr4363uSBO1zUANcukIuuHlZ-ehyphenhyphenlAZmiPUFgwS7k/s1600/19.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1KBRMzs9qIATEwNFdg1g_03Oi4JXtzJoN3JK1YtqtolIcl3BgT4xtyZxRWquzyJ8Nn6x0Q73uS_g2MGRjD8oUyMai6GhbqzDpZ8sr4363uSBO1zUANcukIuuHlZ-ehyphenhyphenlAZmiPUFgwS7k/s320/19.jpg" /></a><br />
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Evening light on Cerro Torre, Fitz Roy and Aguja Poincenot:<br />
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Evening light on the north ridge of Cerro El Ñato - I slept just below the summit:<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghwpAokmwfAqUec7oukMpxpGm8T6jnsOGTFz8bniQGQQuPq_982_-A7vltIJbx8IH_0C6eHl5jHeAwJ991DyYo1mg859z-LXna0ff9YLNrW9yC1z8t5ctJVS3Ma-EquZpZMkVtKqEOQjU/s1600/21.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghwpAokmwfAqUec7oukMpxpGm8T6jnsOGTFz8bniQGQQuPq_982_-A7vltIJbx8IH_0C6eHl5jHeAwJ991DyYo1mg859z-LXna0ff9YLNrW9yC1z8t5ctJVS3Ma-EquZpZMkVtKqEOQjU/s320/21.jpg" /></a><br />
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Morning light on the south ridge of Cerro Adela Sur and Fitz Roy from my bivouac spot:<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-GIrNYeHz_WE3jZexQYokRHQv4e85x9jHK8Ki6ya3luHq_XklQo58SnzJsMtVdjMCd3pAB_wUwHW9S16V9zsEXuoeODVoDSNRbi8QMtC1p1JdOPshLq9pich4nEBeG905ch3eMTIuBDc/s1600/22.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-GIrNYeHz_WE3jZexQYokRHQv4e85x9jHK8Ki6ya3luHq_XklQo58SnzJsMtVdjMCd3pAB_wUwHW9S16V9zsEXuoeODVoDSNRbi8QMtC1p1JdOPshLq9pich4nEBeG905ch3eMTIuBDc/s320/22.jpg" /></a><br />
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The friendly sun rising in the east on the 14th:<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFl0PnI96Af57BluBh7lfz220TewvcZvjh_7uUCGocCmrXkQyyuaK04xRt30gE1u6i1Q7vK8psAco0cAyZ5ChQYuTqnDKps0YX30fKuIzfgWeMF-PkeCu2lwwkOoCunkuKtzUAanvqSjs/s1600/23.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFl0PnI96Af57BluBh7lfz220TewvcZvjh_7uUCGocCmrXkQyyuaK04xRt30gE1u6i1Q7vK8psAco0cAyZ5ChQYuTqnDKps0YX30fKuIzfgWeMF-PkeCu2lwwkOoCunkuKtzUAanvqSjs/s320/23.jpg" /></a><br />
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Sunrise on the Fitz Roy peaks from near the top of Cerro El Ñato:<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMnlSbsCce9NqiHY9BybTiOW45An0rtGqx7QnhcHDb5cDDiPP8WAa4L7DxlMDAjHmUt3JcLOEw1TxTG8iCY1gkem4WJiYYDbMDibZOIXRa65yzxUuRkIcf8tvVmrg95JJbvxCvHTShV-g/s1600/24.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMnlSbsCce9NqiHY9BybTiOW45An0rtGqx7QnhcHDb5cDDiPP8WAa4L7DxlMDAjHmUt3JcLOEw1TxTG8iCY1gkem4WJiYYDbMDibZOIXRa65yzxUuRkIcf8tvVmrg95JJbvxCvHTShV-g/s320/24.jpg" /></a><br />
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Cumbre number four - on top of Cerro El Ñato:<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeiZZ7OKlnMDgPSX-22aOe01Sn4J2BbX0sjOrYIIinLaPuM6DS-2TVKWN5m0UkdcaiurtzNvWVcOdI9lDet5ykxAaZMVhM9UjMuPQx_Wv_Fb6td7Cp7dlwJdif6bF0Vi5wfpbyEBxgZWw/s1600/25.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeiZZ7OKlnMDgPSX-22aOe01Sn4J2BbX0sjOrYIIinLaPuM6DS-2TVKWN5m0UkdcaiurtzNvWVcOdI9lDet5ykxAaZMVhM9UjMuPQx_Wv_Fb6td7Cp7dlwJdif6bF0Vi5wfpbyEBxgZWw/s320/25.jpg" /></a><br />
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Looking southwest over the icecap from the summit of Cerro El Ñato, with Cerro El Doblado below:<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsvgA9j0ZLFkS1MMWpo1q8-Wbv7iUpQILOCLITGdnCCSvW3kDe5PsKXnn6_2P15QRstEMyZwSOjkq5YQwPZTHiQI-DBuCtY7CR5NqvHExCvd0rnsPEH1puj6-vxLDX7lw0eRkBEjD42is/s1600/26.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsvgA9j0ZLFkS1MMWpo1q8-Wbv7iUpQILOCLITGdnCCSvW3kDe5PsKXnn6_2P15QRstEMyZwSOjkq5YQwPZTHiQI-DBuCtY7CR5NqvHExCvd0rnsPEH1puj6-vxLDX7lw0eRkBEjD42is/s320/26.jpg" /></a><br />
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The north side of Cerro Grande from the summit of Cerro El Ñato:<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgr9P89sVPPWVyFIOkFGixsZV3hRkHE2T31tzlohWjQuAK_GnYNxroR7Na4eA3tmItH84LxkUDxxmEmFqWxBP5fiH3-pci3FK3S-baG59aGEZmmc8Uk0TqoHVssZLNkrgJznr54R69_5Xs/s1600/27.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgr9P89sVPPWVyFIOkFGixsZV3hRkHE2T31tzlohWjQuAK_GnYNxroR7Na4eA3tmItH84LxkUDxxmEmFqWxBP5fiH3-pci3FK3S-baG59aGEZmmc8Uk0TqoHVssZLNkrgJznr54R69_5Xs/s320/27.jpg" /></a><br />
<br />
The north aspect of Cerro Solo from the summit of Cerro El Ñato:<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjek1lKRovCRYv_PcOrxj_i1YRBCcqwx3Ea6EybHW1YSkxqF0pX35_VvIO33H64YYtMK5IgBzHj5iN7wFvV4kOc-DFu1AU2mmKMZrop3bH9dlVr06huZhKTVsviqXiYZb4TgpUn1pXb9bc/s1600/28.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjek1lKRovCRYv_PcOrxj_i1YRBCcqwx3Ea6EybHW1YSkxqF0pX35_VvIO33H64YYtMK5IgBzHj5iN7wFvV4kOc-DFu1AU2mmKMZrop3bH9dlVr06huZhKTVsviqXiYZb4TgpUn1pXb9bc/s320/28.jpg" /></a><br />
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Looking up the north ridge of Cerro El Doblado from Paso Doblado:<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixOpmT7va6z8hpJADWm060b5hbqfuJuvu2fl6XmHNoOArxaInsj8j0PuFUYaB8xLXV8dLWLvH-OrQ6yZNYfCJLrTK7SN0OnWP7uDYMl_puDoxaP_JhFqNHTK8G7vML9MlVTAvG_H5cDPc/s1600/29.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixOpmT7va6z8hpJADWm060b5hbqfuJuvu2fl6XmHNoOArxaInsj8j0PuFUYaB8xLXV8dLWLvH-OrQ6yZNYfCJLrTK7SN0OnWP7uDYMl_puDoxaP_JhFqNHTK8G7vML9MlVTAvG_H5cDPc/s320/29.jpg" /></a><br />
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Looking up the southeast ridge of Cerro El Ñato, which I had just descended:<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4-n5El1V6EL72EFRCxfrj0d7ukfP1XqCyqKjaIA2CsnFeRHPbbOLXkO9OSHLedmksFq1mCFsgFAX7QVXpXPsonzHu7rgzq91VDB_6ynvYb7j6CnJnoIJdwfQ2n83Ao7riWW2RtJ-s0jw/s1600/30.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4-n5El1V6EL72EFRCxfrj0d7ukfP1XqCyqKjaIA2CsnFeRHPbbOLXkO9OSHLedmksFq1mCFsgFAX7QVXpXPsonzHu7rgzq91VDB_6ynvYb7j6CnJnoIJdwfQ2n83Ao7riWW2RtJ-s0jw/s320/30.jpg" /></a><br />
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On the north ridge of Cerro El Doblado:<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhngoyQqchID-TGfvkVRSnNMXeZDd5MErMwHkrpzW4WpWAuAfcqB1kzFMMdCvTu3m4UvCK34PDeuJqaZ7wy6eRk5pXzKrgTgBwvix1ag9fuVtla7A6H7u1bOdesi1ZIw0yixfoB0p0HShA/s1600/31.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhngoyQqchID-TGfvkVRSnNMXeZDd5MErMwHkrpzW4WpWAuAfcqB1kzFMMdCvTu3m4UvCK34PDeuJqaZ7wy6eRk5pXzKrgTgBwvix1ag9fuVtla7A6H7u1bOdesi1ZIw0yixfoB0p0HShA/s320/31.jpg" /></a><br />
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Cumbre number five, on the summit of Cerro El Doblado:<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7P_3jJ3CgUbBZDV5b6XnmOEFwg0gUkw6gwmZKMp3btawSAG213PA14qpIhRA9h6zFjMPOlM949qeZT8sbG798f5DX4CvNVd6RkS3znW5p7-vGKqkEGwnz9fSCAcd01sAl8sVBdQk88pw/s1600/32.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7P_3jJ3CgUbBZDV5b6XnmOEFwg0gUkw6gwmZKMp3btawSAG213PA14qpIhRA9h6zFjMPOlM949qeZT8sbG798f5DX4CvNVd6RkS3znW5p7-vGKqkEGwnz9fSCAcd01sAl8sVBdQk88pw/s320/32.jpg" /></a><br />
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The north ridge of Cerro Grande from the summit of Cerro El Doblado:<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyDYQ3FUz6A8HFT3Ci0_2Jdpx7J2xNqfcPJuk0PjBolcnmlqE2CU-boF3O3MUxWDCv6ShtN3YstlYUkgC5ojOb2hvwsiGM4y5SJHvyJgh2BzPQM-UtYDZZkl5GuJHUSZN4bdYGwskROS4/s1600/33.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyDYQ3FUz6A8HFT3Ci0_2Jdpx7J2xNqfcPJuk0PjBolcnmlqE2CU-boF3O3MUxWDCv6ShtN3YstlYUkgC5ojOb2hvwsiGM4y5SJHvyJgh2BzPQM-UtYDZZkl5GuJHUSZN4bdYGwskROS4/s320/33.jpg" /></a><br />
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Looking back at Cerro El Doblado, Cerro El Ñato and Cerro Adela Sur, from partway up the north ridge of Cerro Grande:<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvnTXOb-KY6xAUH5L6JOEzJ2Hr1n7dK9iOIuq4JpS2dTgWX7Ko-qHr3DTWqZfdfsYmoFP6tJ9BVOSyTl1h1p_8mjY0R9wou6jRU62MgzUn2oWWR7jpV3d2RWV1vQR6K_LaVJsZYVDeJes/s1600/34.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvnTXOb-KY6xAUH5L6JOEzJ2Hr1n7dK9iOIuq4JpS2dTgWX7Ko-qHr3DTWqZfdfsYmoFP6tJ9BVOSyTl1h1p_8mjY0R9wou6jRU62MgzUn2oWWR7jpV3d2RWV1vQR6K_LaVJsZYVDeJes/s320/34.jpg" /></a><br />
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Looking towards Cerro Huemul and Paso del Viento from just below the summit of Cerro Grande:<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjraPu-JytzASdnhU9wJjM4cH5IO19isxdrOdVriFzfEQlRNEWPlMGRtEcHAfRQL0-ZwATiPllar-ma9_M2xAz2hIOkm-MA0Lvg2ueftjGpQYySmYRRZtD6uR9gzq8QIjsrRyDuMCnx53U/s1600/35.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjraPu-JytzASdnhU9wJjM4cH5IO19isxdrOdVriFzfEQlRNEWPlMGRtEcHAfRQL0-ZwATiPllar-ma9_M2xAz2hIOkm-MA0Lvg2ueftjGpQYySmYRRZtD6uR9gzq8QIjsrRyDuMCnx53U/s320/35.jpg" /></a><br />
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On the summit of Cerro Grande. I would've held up six fingers, but one hand was holding the camera:<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWDCmgZH6PzIakLSq1P_6UyJo_TslauUmp_hnVyxKQg6PNAm9kBscIGOAYKekPmtMCJ-stBEUkoWjoLIynZgsqGa4dd58L8Dgk4ry-jDm6wTApeWqzdl8YiAl2lVKuxHjHkmEE_HpOeYM/s1600/36.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWDCmgZH6PzIakLSq1P_6UyJo_TslauUmp_hnVyxKQg6PNAm9kBscIGOAYKekPmtMCJ-stBEUkoWjoLIynZgsqGa4dd58L8Dgk4ry-jDm6wTApeWqzdl8YiAl2lVKuxHjHkmEE_HpOeYM/s320/36.jpg" /></a><br />
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The Fitz Roy peaks and Laguna Torre from the summit of Cerro Grande:<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJ179yZsHYOfaw_kKu9KF9-t52J_rREzfT9zyPjyFS-sis3JUiSABxg4r43dHPJUZtTqw2MmvriFCocwrVYqPK6zB_DWm3i1iWIWogteJddDdv6HF-SeIcZgQNXRc6hYzkyuvUgN5hzCk/s1600/37.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJ179yZsHYOfaw_kKu9KF9-t52J_rREzfT9zyPjyFS-sis3JUiSABxg4r43dHPJUZtTqw2MmvriFCocwrVYqPK6zB_DWm3i1iWIWogteJddDdv6HF-SeIcZgQNXRc6hYzkyuvUgN5hzCk/s320/37.jpg" /></a><br />
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Looking down the east ridge of Cerro Grande, which I declined to descend:<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZReXgRcIUexok0bYOFGJuhVmT6gvh1ri1nCL9Zbp3iXlRmAOLYaxtyK9eh2TVqh1IwUj5euMt-NjpLBkPQZVWdlF4uybD3HAmCa-3lZU8pmEaKweyezRh9iRlulUULjnrV-4m71Puums/s1600/38.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZReXgRcIUexok0bYOFGJuhVmT6gvh1ri1nCL9Zbp3iXlRmAOLYaxtyK9eh2TVqh1IwUj5euMt-NjpLBkPQZVWdlF4uybD3HAmCa-3lZU8pmEaKweyezRh9iRlulUULjnrV-4m71Puums/s320/38.jpg" /></a><br />
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</div>Colinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13983021751924748485noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4333132788232790338.post-49153661172563394282013-03-06T09:13:00.001-08:002013-03-06T09:13:40.080-08:00El MochoLast week there was yet another good weather window in the Chalten Massif. However, the window was unfortunately immediately proceeded by a torrential storm, and wet conditions thwarted many climber's attempts. Sarah and I hiked into the Torre Valley with our sights set on some lower summits, that fortunately accumulated less snow during the storm.<br />
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On the last day of February we climbed El Mocho via the first ascent route, the Bridwell-Staszewski. Although Sarah and I have very similar rock climbing abilities, my wealth of alpine-climbing experience generally makes me a bit more efficient in the mountains here, and since speed is critical in Patagonian climbing, I generally do most of the leading when we are alpine climbing together here. So, having been a lead-hog recently, when we finally headed up an objective where we could afford a slightly more relaxed pace, it was time to return the favor, and Sarah led us up El Mocho.<br />
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Most people who climb on El Mocho don't bother trying to reach the summit, because they can't be bothered to carry their alpine-climbing equipment up the rock pitches. However, the summit ridge of El Mocho has some of the best views in the massif, so we carried up the boots, crampons and ice axes that let us reach the summit. We descended via a direct variation of the Bridwell-Staszewski, the Via Benitiers, which can be easily rappelled with a single 60m rope, by the way.<br />
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After a rest day in Niponino, we attempted Aguja Bifida via the northeast buttress, but got off-route early on. We eventually joined the correct line about halfway up Bifida, but had wasted too much time on tricky pitches, and bailed a few pitches after joining the correct route.<br />
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The southwest side of Fitz Roy coming out from the clouds:<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGBgOjaOP-Fkb3QtjHNHAdGcDkMyMgWTq159dmvmmJX6aaXIeeTrYyqhO0lV3Ozbtdw_-ZwYrbtj8pUsrtQc0VFUsSlIeunz_pdPHwtvEx9Xxbd6KNzdAgMxu8H39aOBjbDxB1O4Pl2Tw/s1600/01+IMG_0070.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGBgOjaOP-Fkb3QtjHNHAdGcDkMyMgWTq159dmvmmJX6aaXIeeTrYyqhO0lV3Ozbtdw_-ZwYrbtj8pUsrtQc0VFUsSlIeunz_pdPHwtvEx9Xxbd6KNzdAgMxu8H39aOBjbDxB1O4Pl2Tw/s320/01+IMG_0070.jpg" /></a><br />
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Sarah low on the Bridwell-Staszewski:<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijXlZLBR_6vuxxEhdjX8jXxA-l4mhUESCHzFd1_w-7fkhiCRgFpURO_aNKM4Y_HJXCdf182MIHZAOylx8WlQW0mCJYf5BR6JaDYBZ0qD-VA5zeXOZMpj1Ds1ru1Ifil8cbbWydeXN4mFQ/s1600/02+IMG_0076.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijXlZLBR_6vuxxEhdjX8jXxA-l4mhUESCHzFd1_w-7fkhiCRgFpURO_aNKM4Y_HJXCdf182MIHZAOylx8WlQW0mCJYf5BR6JaDYBZ0qD-VA5zeXOZMpj1Ds1ru1Ifil8cbbWydeXN4mFQ/s320/02+IMG_0076.jpg" /></a><br />
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Sarah climbing to the left to avoid the off-width on the Bridwell-Staszewski. I think we should have gone right instead:<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcexhi56WQx-5wvsil6YrR7gMvuGZVEM_Ws9PvJfskHYmIeGfgITnf-RrCtg3QdMc5s1rUvCvr5mNVzox-zohfqzuEHoRPcQiO3RbaDFSXJ2oC3uRh3ij6H0auTWmiD_VJ4LTx6Tgvuwk/s1600/03+IMG_0083.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcexhi56WQx-5wvsil6YrR7gMvuGZVEM_Ws9PvJfskHYmIeGfgITnf-RrCtg3QdMc5s1rUvCvr5mNVzox-zohfqzuEHoRPcQiO3RbaDFSXJ2oC3uRh3ij6H0auTWmiD_VJ4LTx6Tgvuwk/s320/03+IMG_0083.jpg" /></a><br />
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The rock quality improved as we got higher on El Mocho:<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8v8S9hyj4S03fubNYrjYH9TnqxjdP2ZqT9UF4ABSvX2buy-QrVvoohOFKZNf4OAU8gyaogA-xk3mGVVDueuSIQIFhyCy-2m54QJbnDKkHKo2AYkprMKfPIhet5j9HUeYJbCw1iv4c2Ms/s1600/04+IMG_0087.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8v8S9hyj4S03fubNYrjYH9TnqxjdP2ZqT9UF4ABSvX2buy-QrVvoohOFKZNf4OAU8gyaogA-xk3mGVVDueuSIQIFhyCy-2m54QJbnDKkHKo2AYkprMKfPIhet5j9HUeYJbCw1iv4c2Ms/s320/04+IMG_0087.jpg" /></a><br />
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Sarah leading on the Bridwell-Staszewski:<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOn3WCdNT2S5m6mobdkycC1D3PPFwY_VX2Thl4HIhxo_kbXoT6e08HFnl8_h8pLZ9SiZJP3OpGtQSvEDP0rI_DMUDoXWqKCPryOzUtDImlWBXhdIbC9BjX2CT1C5PUEMkW1Z6tfkANCEE/s1600/05+IMG_0104.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOn3WCdNT2S5m6mobdkycC1D3PPFwY_VX2Thl4HIhxo_kbXoT6e08HFnl8_h8pLZ9SiZJP3OpGtQSvEDP0rI_DMUDoXWqKCPryOzUtDImlWBXhdIbC9BjX2CT1C5PUEMkW1Z6tfkANCEE/s320/05+IMG_0104.jpg" /></a><br />
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Climbing on the Bridwell-Staszewski, after the Benitiers variation joins in:<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZ1LreFd0SiGGKeDN5AqWSpvDTL1k7qbVPeIghDoPyL1IzY0MzBRK5bXvYvkWr_7_eTj8j5RrIZyS4LyADbcmVAcEG0Zx0MKWiE3lt5pTVL-wyax1vPaWSNslXL7dnM1HrCjcVWCRqH1I/s1600/06+IMG_0111.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZ1LreFd0SiGGKeDN5AqWSpvDTL1k7qbVPeIghDoPyL1IzY0MzBRK5bXvYvkWr_7_eTj8j5RrIZyS4LyADbcmVAcEG0Zx0MKWiE3lt5pTVL-wyax1vPaWSNslXL7dnM1HrCjcVWCRqH1I/s320/06+IMG_0111.jpg" /></a><br />
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Sarah on the Bridwell-Staszewski:<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzrAbNIrMk_MhCygZY8B7e_l225hT6l7NvhMV8y_LFJ1qRR2BlSO3V5-xqtI6hNVqQ0YicJOAx0Rsn3d-oaxiqrzVPH9kK_1xqlfDBz4NnOx0PCbpuOYtESafNDbvAGlMGc2y2T-C3j2o/s1600/07+IMG_0119.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzrAbNIrMk_MhCygZY8B7e_l225hT6l7NvhMV8y_LFJ1qRR2BlSO3V5-xqtI6hNVqQ0YicJOAx0Rsn3d-oaxiqrzVPH9kK_1xqlfDBz4NnOx0PCbpuOYtESafNDbvAGlMGc2y2T-C3j2o/s320/07+IMG_0119.jpg" /></a><br />
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Sarah leading on the Bridwell-Staszewski, with Cerro Piergiorgio and Cerro Pollone behind:<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7-gkW6gNe3Wip0dVoyM8SiZf4yUB6SZ-JpEFE0GqtxlFeEp22Fl3KE_OhGwuxqUvi2cE4RndeXxwSzqLTfrvzABGItfVXnVEINc5pNyMjlRF6gTgAm1gV6kpB3OcRvmmwdlJ9IEO5JBY/s1600/08+IMG_0135.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7-gkW6gNe3Wip0dVoyM8SiZf4yUB6SZ-JpEFE0GqtxlFeEp22Fl3KE_OhGwuxqUvi2cE4RndeXxwSzqLTfrvzABGItfVXnVEINc5pNyMjlRF6gTgAm1gV6kpB3OcRvmmwdlJ9IEO5JBY/s320/08+IMG_0135.jpg" /></a><br />
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Sarah on the Bridwell-Staszewski, with Filo del Hombre Sentado and the southwest face of Fitz Roy behind:<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXrbffD0RO3aSx3T_rYqeMKB9TymN_cga3mgeO2snyzy9fRetUo15uO_dEwGAuzHhlgkziPlnLUPtWAb-_qmDCWByG1IJiUf9sqQdHHkgicrxx5Hn0gU2Q-OmI3XSYtzHv_CjT-3b4OiQ/s1600/09+IMG_0157.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXrbffD0RO3aSx3T_rYqeMKB9TymN_cga3mgeO2snyzy9fRetUo15uO_dEwGAuzHhlgkziPlnLUPtWAb-_qmDCWByG1IJiUf9sqQdHHkgicrxx5Hn0gU2Q-OmI3XSYtzHv_CjT-3b4OiQ/s320/09+IMG_0157.jpg" /></a><br />
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Sarah on the last 5th-class pitch of the Bridwell-Staszewski, with Cerro Solo in the background:<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjB3wdYftWr24IyYmUMU1qXMH91mGL3hqgeyJ3zX87GzxYBcTQHr5SoVvds3vVxXgysbO2fCuoHQSC9LKpezUUcYgfqAZJ54RejigQKBSNU7IpKbZ87w46SKPZfj-Q2yaPz-mqi47ACWh8/s1600/10+IMG_0173.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjB3wdYftWr24IyYmUMU1qXMH91mGL3hqgeyJ3zX87GzxYBcTQHr5SoVvds3vVxXgysbO2fCuoHQSC9LKpezUUcYgfqAZJ54RejigQKBSNU7IpKbZ87w46SKPZfj-Q2yaPz-mqi47ACWh8/s320/10+IMG_0173.jpg" /></a><br />
<br />
Sarah scrambling up to start of El Mocho's summit ridge:<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi05yaO7tBDMQQqPyH0CVRYsrEqiTi__L19mDcVy_GyiVal8nVHmHtgaKcFlsHjCbC7Uls0GX0DKVMQKHfXyTE-GJsnokL89B2u4HdeHYiF4eylpP0VRf5i0RlrnbBi8SGWKs6T8lXki6g/s1600/11+IMG_0180.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi05yaO7tBDMQQqPyH0CVRYsrEqiTi__L19mDcVy_GyiVal8nVHmHtgaKcFlsHjCbC7Uls0GX0DKVMQKHfXyTE-GJsnokL89B2u4HdeHYiF4eylpP0VRf5i0RlrnbBi8SGWKs6T8lXki6g/s320/11+IMG_0180.jpg" /></a><br />
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Colin nearing the summit of El Mocho, with the sun just barely poking through the Col de la Mentira. Photo by Sarah Hart:<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihGIZXgv6fk-JnaSR9EhKFCKQuVfMwBS4K4O4Lrb1gFRw61CcH2cKxAjTXj7ngIH7QVoY56tzUUvswdsfVn1Zz6hkM7VtXbv_PkCRApK5dykFXC973Ctc0_oToCYfz_FvmZ9d5sxm2cN8/s1600/12+IMG_2622.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihGIZXgv6fk-JnaSR9EhKFCKQuVfMwBS4K4O4Lrb1gFRw61CcH2cKxAjTXj7ngIH7QVoY56tzUUvswdsfVn1Zz6hkM7VtXbv_PkCRApK5dykFXC973Ctc0_oToCYfz_FvmZ9d5sxm2cN8/s320/12+IMG_2622.jpg" /></a><br />
<br />
Sarah coming up the summit ridge of El Mocho:<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtElfTojUyzfbReAqFrf1nmhvbK27Sp6Gx615ieUOWmkIspNw4tB-un30qD_V6svpDdTrVFD2kjLbJDmdVeQSxoE0BXNVv1Be_0r3xbrbi-dUlrLJ_aYfbveNrwP4IJ9p6LsyWlibM4EA/s1600/13+IMG_0184.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtElfTojUyzfbReAqFrf1nmhvbK27Sp6Gx615ieUOWmkIspNw4tB-un30qD_V6svpDdTrVFD2kjLbJDmdVeQSxoE0BXNVv1Be_0r3xbrbi-dUlrLJ_aYfbveNrwP4IJ9p6LsyWlibM4EA/s320/13+IMG_0184.jpg" /></a><br />
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The summit of El Mocho. The last time I climbed El Mocho (in November 2007) the highest point was on the snow - this time it was the rock at the very western point of El Mocho. I wouldn't be at all surprised if, within the next ten years, the summit of El Mocho becomes just a bare rock slab, like the summit of Aguja Desmochada is now.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtxineaOlupQvDthe4T9B6dqe_kUyCwgd22fwt5qH1XOMxcj9Wy0gDt6tj_SO3GQqGGCW13nwuZeY7lLEfL8dfBLw5Vssk1hmYyWdGbA_UeE9TNeBN1zTSTV1Vcf_XKzMWQM05M__PSYE/s1600/14+IMG_0221.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtxineaOlupQvDthe4T9B6dqe_kUyCwgd22fwt5qH1XOMxcj9Wy0gDt6tj_SO3GQqGGCW13nwuZeY7lLEfL8dfBLw5Vssk1hmYyWdGbA_UeE9TNeBN1zTSTV1Vcf_XKzMWQM05M__PSYE/s320/14+IMG_0221.jpg" /></a><br />
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Sarah coming up the first pitch we climbed on Aguja Bifida:<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxFuYtOlnLZD4VcsrkdhAN-YsnpixVmscoHaSj7gZY0NKrzVt8xbj8Z32ci9jYFKIW0-ylkGPjSSJ-rGlpi7Lq948Ep9h7uUoW2_Pr8TbvJoVyWNzT3Z__gEg6D0dW6cAsweJVsqneTCU/s1600/15+IMG_0230.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxFuYtOlnLZD4VcsrkdhAN-YsnpixVmscoHaSj7gZY0NKrzVt8xbj8Z32ci9jYFKIW0-ylkGPjSSJ-rGlpi7Lq948Ep9h7uUoW2_Pr8TbvJoVyWNzT3Z__gEg6D0dW6cAsweJVsqneTCU/s320/15+IMG_0230.jpg" /></a><br />
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Colin on the second pitch we climbed on Bifida. Photo by Sarah Hart:<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTU3Rll6GpOkYYtCLscrirt0hljDkQwEJhONXe8ovKJqU2RkFli68NJSa7yU06Uiknx7zJCvwW8P2Zjkmxkf-sZkBcUMKwJiOtrPCt3g0PhS8FW5ya9UbrKzhqrUngB0vToH_IIOGNC0w/s1600/16+IMG_2650.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTU3Rll6GpOkYYtCLscrirt0hljDkQwEJhONXe8ovKJqU2RkFli68NJSa7yU06Uiknx7zJCvwW8P2Zjkmxkf-sZkBcUMKwJiOtrPCt3g0PhS8FW5ya9UbrKzhqrUngB0vToH_IIOGNC0w/s320/16+IMG_2650.jpg" /></a><br />
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Sarah low on Bifida:<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4T23jKdIHw0Ovjyr7JdQjnekXKFFfjyhSEkYTYo2vLT90kJ7sBVkrgx6XASjiUZpxyRMY8v7geJg0IDfsX5CeKJhcBPpgg-5jzTgPWPzaEA3A5AR_ghjeWyDNN2hg9wGSGBS0Yi0ZSQU/s1600/17+IMG_0236.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4T23jKdIHw0Ovjyr7JdQjnekXKFFfjyhSEkYTYo2vLT90kJ7sBVkrgx6XASjiUZpxyRMY8v7geJg0IDfsX5CeKJhcBPpgg-5jzTgPWPzaEA3A5AR_ghjeWyDNN2hg9wGSGBS0Yi0ZSQU/s320/17+IMG_0236.jpg" /></a><br />
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Sarah climbing on Bifida - at this point we were definitely going the wrong way:<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCo6G7q-vF2EbqbUWgFRw61Ad13Op3sVmxnW_sU0EfXrOWGCVFFgfJcmr0dB4E1fQ_KMth4aX1-VZZFcN0SswUyoR3IRjPAGJ8GVuOOgoOLjS3YDmcmLhJr9aEJVhijw2UxcEgdKKufMA/s1600/18+IMG_0240.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCo6G7q-vF2EbqbUWgFRw61Ad13Op3sVmxnW_sU0EfXrOWGCVFFgfJcmr0dB4E1fQ_KMth4aX1-VZZFcN0SswUyoR3IRjPAGJ8GVuOOgoOLjS3YDmcmLhJr9aEJVhijw2UxcEgdKKufMA/s320/18+IMG_0240.jpg" /></a><br />
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Colin navigating on Bifida. Photo by Sarah Hart:<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4a5KFvQpV77f5h4SJktP-MxzYSlds7rKM3Lxts6SpaVmhJJSniC0oamjWuk1FWX09N0PEXS3h2gUH7UnaXVaG4OfnPwo1RuHhgK9PlZhIAjtgTHWXIo2Oi6zTaUCnCGUM_ds6e0TZvg0/s1600/19+IMG_2666.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4a5KFvQpV77f5h4SJktP-MxzYSlds7rKM3Lxts6SpaVmhJJSniC0oamjWuk1FWX09N0PEXS3h2gUH7UnaXVaG4OfnPwo1RuHhgK9PlZhIAjtgTHWXIo2Oi6zTaUCnCGUM_ds6e0TZvg0/s320/19+IMG_2666.jpg" /></a><br />
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We may have been off-route and going too slowly, but at least the climbing was nice! Photo by Sarah Hart:<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhu4PfAPXvUgfXSwifk3uI-YMpeVDix7NdGfY55rYbXe-9Wqhdf5xCnmo7KvcVdyy4muu5wTzWToVXEJS39PZR2r7mh46njp9F6zecD-yhDXAwgPBH-bFPQrvoWp4jdVgHH0uR8xqpDz0c/s1600/20+IMG_2691.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhu4PfAPXvUgfXSwifk3uI-YMpeVDix7NdGfY55rYbXe-9Wqhdf5xCnmo7KvcVdyy4muu5wTzWToVXEJS39PZR2r7mh46njp9F6zecD-yhDXAwgPBH-bFPQrvoWp4jdVgHH0uR8xqpDz0c/s320/20+IMG_2691.jpg" /></a><br />
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Sarah on Aguja Bifida:<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkegHZjN9VFz7bNyhx5Jkfj7MNZtZfd-5oS6czD-sUGNpvPSJr4t5SEg-d2LyokXQC5VSa0vOYcWqCMaiwqGll8hI5xSP1BbTciQ06-Ii55J2MCVCte94e6n1UkzGNjALXT4Js7PX44mU/s1600/21+IMG_0242.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkegHZjN9VFz7bNyhx5Jkfj7MNZtZfd-5oS6czD-sUGNpvPSJr4t5SEg-d2LyokXQC5VSa0vOYcWqCMaiwqGll8hI5xSP1BbTciQ06-Ii55J2MCVCte94e6n1UkzGNjALXT4Js7PX44mU/s320/21+IMG_0242.jpg" /></a><br />
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Sarah making a traversing rappel to try to join the correct buttress:<br />
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Colin on the northeast buttress of Aguja Bifida, after we finally joined the correct line. Photo by Sarah Hart:<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhpwtoD8tzDNfR-TBoYe_TpoMDMYHDadkEwenpTW7ZxqED2kqaJV56KSX4yGGdcHXnV7m6XimWIpEm8zozo-cHSOVF0WdMSJznW5CVubN5itWMjPwHpATKRA21rsI4o03XcYo1yN4pqw8/s1600/23+IMG_2720.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhpwtoD8tzDNfR-TBoYe_TpoMDMYHDadkEwenpTW7ZxqED2kqaJV56KSX4yGGdcHXnV7m6XimWIpEm8zozo-cHSOVF0WdMSJznW5CVubN5itWMjPwHpATKRA21rsI4o03XcYo1yN4pqw8/s320/23+IMG_2720.jpg" /></a><br />
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A nice cracked-up slab! Photo by Sarah Hart:<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZMoPw9pBJH-ADfKKC5-owleLM_9LthVb5E21u08IlAH6RHlluwKGxIDtT8BvJYHJFgVMMM8CKpQUd72GZN3sijmJ7GD_1IpJ-npQ1v1UJOlzeE1dofoly_eLazZqtOzY_emSeyhZHqqQ/s1600/24+IMG_2725.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZMoPw9pBJH-ADfKKC5-owleLM_9LthVb5E21u08IlAH6RHlluwKGxIDtT8BvJYHJFgVMMM8CKpQUd72GZN3sijmJ7GD_1IpJ-npQ1v1UJOlzeE1dofoly_eLazZqtOzY_emSeyhZHqqQ/s320/24+IMG_2725.jpg" /></a><br />
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Sarah on the correct line on Aguja Bifida:<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpo0irz-nZqwgJv6uugIrDOUNi9WNwTRTguaQfI7M1-8u9Jv1XqjCOG5j-adaTLUfANc2mhvyzgkyfCpy5JdIaDn-PwZJ1tWFYVuo2oQA0uh0Zt6LGwlNsdHDqGW__umLb6TP-aVmlnkM/s1600/25+IMG_0272.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpo0irz-nZqwgJv6uugIrDOUNi9WNwTRTguaQfI7M1-8u9Jv1XqjCOG5j-adaTLUfANc2mhvyzgkyfCpy5JdIaDn-PwZJ1tWFYVuo2oQA0uh0Zt6LGwlNsdHDqGW__umLb6TP-aVmlnkM/s320/25+IMG_0272.jpg" /></a><br />
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Sarah following the last pitch that we climbed on Aguja Bifida:<br />
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Cool views of Cerro Domo Blanco, Aguja CAT, and Quatro Dedos:<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNQvkEifM2zBoE0GbYqhgdjGN6ub9f-KmHOUL60D0TAeuiTaqkc_FMu5HITkBfsXnu6V_slNDU7af6QyzkW04yrZ_gLEuqmhx26akWUkMns-psevkZlzd6aV-AkhSPNNO5GigVNQ13sJ8/s1600/27+IMG_2743.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNQvkEifM2zBoE0GbYqhgdjGN6ub9f-KmHOUL60D0TAeuiTaqkc_FMu5HITkBfsXnu6V_slNDU7af6QyzkW04yrZ_gLEuqmhx26akWUkMns-psevkZlzd6aV-AkhSPNNO5GigVNQ13sJ8/s320/27+IMG_2743.jpg" /></a><br />
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</div>Colinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13983021751924748485noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4333132788232790338.post-35111686674570302252013-02-23T14:06:00.001-08:002013-02-23T14:06:57.460-08:00Mojon Rojo - El ZorroSarah is back in El Chalten with me again, and after a few days of bouldering and sport climbing, we were back up in the mountains with yet more good weather. On Wednesday the 20th we hiked into the Torre Valley with our sights set on the enigmatic west face of Mojon Rojo. Mojon Rojo, while very modest from the east, is actually quite impressive-looking from the Torre Valley, with a steep face of red rock. There were rumors for a long time that the face had been climbed by Jim Bridwell, but Rolo finally did the research and found that Bridwell and Robert Staszewski had actually just climbed the couloir between Mojon Rojo and Aguja de l'S, and then reached the summit via the north ridge. Since the regular climbers here in the Chalten Massif are used to climbing on nearly-perfect-quality granite, there is a general fear of the non-granitic rock, and I think the only reason that the west face of Mojon Rojo remained unclimbed until now is because everyone had feared dangerously loose rock. With this possibility in mind, Sarah and I hiked in with a bunch of pitons, and expectations of intense, potentially scary pitches.<br />
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On Thursday morning we got an early start from Niponino, and after slogging up some loose talus slopes, reached the couloir between Mojon Rojo and Aguja de l'S at first light. From the very beginning, we were delighted with what we found - the rock, while not perfect, was far from loose or poorly-protected. It was in fact on par with some of the very best rock in the North Cascades. And, after climbing so much this season on granite, it was a delight to climb on a different type of rock, with many more face-climbing features. Although I posses of bachelor of science in geologic sciences, I am not really a geologist at all, and I can't tell you what the rock type was, except that it is metamorphic. And while my limited geology knowledge makes me skeptical that quartzite might exist right at the margin of a massive granite batholith, I have to say the rock was quite reminiscent of the "Back of the Lake" at Lake Louise.<br />
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We followed our noses up the path of least resistance and nicest-looking climbing. The first half of the route climbed a subtle buttress, and was mostly simul-climbing up mid-fifth-class, with one section of 5.10, A0. At the top of the buttress we followed an easy gully feature, which took us to the crest of the west ridge, at a notch with a tower. The route from here climbed spectacular crack systems on the face just left of the west ridge, with features always connecting just enough for enjoyable 5.10 climbing. As we neared the top of the face we almost joined a giant squeeze-chimney, which is clearly visible from down on the Torre Glacier. However, after taking one look up the squeeze chimney, I opted instead to continue connecting face cracks. The climbing remained 5.10 until the last few meters of the face, which I climbed at A1 off of knifeblades. The A1 section gained the west ridge, and from here one more pitch gains the lower, northwest summit of Mojon Rojo. From the northwest summit a spectacular section of simul-climbing on a true knife-edge ridge, and one short rappel, took us to the base of the main summit tower. Two rope-lengths of mid fifth class allowed us to join the scrambling terrain on the east face, and soon we surmounted the exposed V0 boulder problem that is the true summit of Mojon Rojo.<br />
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As we now rapidly approach the autumnal equinox, the days have been getting noticeably shorter in Patagonia, and we reached the summit of Mojon Rojo only a half-hour before dark. We had planned to return to the Torre Valley via the Bridwell-Staszewski route, but upon seeing how easy it would be to descend to the east, it was too great of a temptation, and we decided on the spur of the moment to descend to Laguna Sucia. I hadn't been to Laguna Sucia since 2003, so my very dim recollections of the route, combined with the darkness, made our descent to the lake longer and and trickier than necessary. We finally caught a couple hours of spooning/shivery/sleeping near the Rio Blanco campground, and made the weary hike out of the mountains.<br />
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This ascent felt like a real coup, because the quality of the climb far, far exceeded our expectations. The route felt to me to have rock reminiscent of the South Face of Ingall's Peak, architecture reminiscent of the East Ridge of Inspiration Peak, and a scale and overall feel reminiscent of the Greenwood-Jones on Mt. Temple. We named our route "El Zorro," in reference to the distinctly red rock, and in honor of the friendly fox, who has been hanging around Niponino this season, visited us the night before the ascent, and is probably at this moment destroying the tent which we left set up at Niponino (in search of the cheese and chorizo inside). It is a route I highly recommend. El Zorro, 700m, 5.10, A1.<br />
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Sarah in the approach gully between Mojon Rojo and Aguja de l'S:<br />
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Sarah climbing low on El Zorro:<br />
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Colin climbing low on El Zorro - the rock is better than it looks! Photo by Sarah Hart:<br />
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Colin nearing the top of the lower buttress. Photo by Sarah Hart:<br />
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Sarah psyched but with cold fingers, near the top of the lower buttress:<br />
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Sarah reaching the notch in the west ridge:<br />
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Colin on the first pitch above the notch - the start of the really great climbing. Photo by Sarah Hart:<br />
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Sarah climbing the first pitch above the notch:<br />
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Spectacular climbing on the upper face. Photo by Sarah Hart:<br />
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Hand cracks galore! Photo by Sarah Hart:<br />
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Sarah jamming on the upper face:<br />
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Sarah following yet another spectacular pitch on the upper west face of Mojon Rojo:<br />
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Colin traversing out to inspect the squeeze chimney (and declining to go that way!). The south face of Aguja de l'S is in the background. Photo by Sarah Hart:<br />
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Colin climbing more awesome terrain, near the top of the west face. Photo by Sarah Hart:<br />
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Sarah following near the top of the west face, with the Torre Glacier far below:<br />
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Sarah coming up thin climbing on beautiful, red rock:<br />
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The short section of A1, with a condor flying above. The top of the squeeze chimney can be seen on the left margin of the photo. Photo by Sarah Hart:<br />
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Sarah at the top Mojon Rojo's west face, with the west ridge of Techado Negro behind, Laguna Torre far below, and Lago Viedma in the distance:<br />
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Colin on the last pitch of the west ridge, which gains the northwest summit of Mojon Rojo. Photo by Sarah Hart:<br />
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Sarah at the start of the knife-edge traverse towards the main summit tower, with the Torre Valley behind, and the south face of Aguja de l'S on the right:<br />
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Colin traversing on the knife-edge towards the main summit tower, which we climbed on the left side (climbing through the patch of grey rock, and gaining the easy terrain on the east side). Photo by Sarah Hart:<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYGdG7W1xiJG2faTKQKYdnECIoidwulLnfAapsViljhzvkwTWHtKnmr6a7Parxk8euWtqLyW7Af3-vegNhYxF1P74To9eXXq4_rHt_3XrtRvxOnrDWlSQmrsnzVZlWj5DlHt7Fv_JC200/s1600/21.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYGdG7W1xiJG2faTKQKYdnECIoidwulLnfAapsViljhzvkwTWHtKnmr6a7Parxk8euWtqLyW7Af3-vegNhYxF1P74To9eXXq4_rHt_3XrtRvxOnrDWlSQmrsnzVZlWj5DlHt7Fv_JC200/s320/21.jpg" /></a><br />
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Sarah on the knife-edge traverse:<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7putNLH9QrPsIo8iSUG7BLZHI6RaMCCIg9DfE1ueiQjOJnYeq8z4zaJrDOZ52SfLA6hKRFvnJrBdT0nMSGE4GVceFnX6hQ-Hf3SQP28jY7SDszDwXpsHx_bD6M2iyBWHnRkCViK4F_YM/s1600/22.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7putNLH9QrPsIo8iSUG7BLZHI6RaMCCIg9DfE1ueiQjOJnYeq8z4zaJrDOZ52SfLA6hKRFvnJrBdT0nMSGE4GVceFnX6hQ-Hf3SQP28jY7SDszDwXpsHx_bD6M2iyBWHnRkCViK4F_YM/s320/22.jpg" /></a><br />
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Sarah turning the corner to the easy terrain on the east side of the summit tower, with the south face of Aguja de l'S behind, and the Torre Valley in the background:<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJ7bTEdXpUPV8CdaOCj-N3AATDZv_FYr8hWTZIaoqlUdQtZO_0WUNqPBXGSq0YmZhef1XqgB-yVqsGPz4UvKeI0876-F_CPSASqgf5RLi7A_vj2tIVE7PhBazFbdfonHA0QBBjNRxJE-Y/s1600/23.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJ7bTEdXpUPV8CdaOCj-N3AATDZv_FYr8hWTZIaoqlUdQtZO_0WUNqPBXGSq0YmZhef1XqgB-yVqsGPz4UvKeI0876-F_CPSASqgf5RLi7A_vj2tIVE7PhBazFbdfonHA0QBBjNRxJE-Y/s320/23.jpg" /></a><br />
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A nice Torre Valley sunset! Photo by Sarah Hart:<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-HitKlj0qzGJB1cFQe6zthyPzBp5TJKG0Eqf1hbvyB5dzAbHMpUdr67TC4FNnlCIafkVrCaB90aH9MrZPhQd6i16ecg5H3LKAQZ7ENK8QwY4be6Kpub9O7tKQMErge0QcU9g6yUVaLJU/s1600/24.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-HitKlj0qzGJB1cFQe6zthyPzBp5TJKG0Eqf1hbvyB5dzAbHMpUdr67TC4FNnlCIafkVrCaB90aH9MrZPhQd6i16ecg5H3LKAQZ7ENK8QwY4be6Kpub9O7tKQMErge0QcU9g6yUVaLJU/s320/24.jpg" /></a><br />
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On the summit of Mojon Rojo!<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjH4Rr8AAA06D0zjWPpAYSHxk_39R9MtzWhUBJjdp_OtaRL-9S60aF3ObsTnrZ2GGZv9ehSu8QdaBcQXFvrgpr3h4CwEhR5pX7QtdjJjpy1Hk-KxdbZcWA3SqsuTqtHQG9DLOdVPEaZIUY/s1600/25.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjH4Rr8AAA06D0zjWPpAYSHxk_39R9MtzWhUBJjdp_OtaRL-9S60aF3ObsTnrZ2GGZv9ehSu8QdaBcQXFvrgpr3h4CwEhR5pX7QtdjJjpy1Hk-KxdbZcWA3SqsuTqtHQG9DLOdVPEaZIUY/s320/25.jpg" /></a><br />
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A cool, old piton on the summit of Mojon Rojo. Left on the first ascent?<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1f8M09zVfkGXihYqFOgvna6VTeARPKxu2nfdq0Hcixdq5guNH3a2Z0f8-RLE00Ib5Oo9EyCkYpt2e2d9at_QX4gx18WLs039t0-ZmQ8QkgBl7Ocfjh_l9zIKzJmJK4VqrkrhB-IveU-U/s1600/26.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1f8M09zVfkGXihYqFOgvna6VTeARPKxu2nfdq0Hcixdq5guNH3a2Z0f8-RLE00Ib5Oo9EyCkYpt2e2d9at_QX4gx18WLs039t0-ZmQ8QkgBl7Ocfjh_l9zIKzJmJK4VqrkrhB-IveU-U/s320/26.jpg" /></a><br />
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The line of El Zorro (700m, 5.10, A1). Photo by Sarah Hart:<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7AEP8Tr6j-n-2FYUelUoB-_OQtY2P7oWYufDthFuGzWBAdlp7e180bN6j6gr3MNqH1zPNcYClzWFjIJp32PoX-Phup8Zb_ZP7P_o9RPH7jgukFJoizajr0d2Rku9dfhJ36Yw8DFPbd9A/s1600/27.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7AEP8Tr6j-n-2FYUelUoB-_OQtY2P7oWYufDthFuGzWBAdlp7e180bN6j6gr3MNqH1zPNcYClzWFjIJp32PoX-Phup8Zb_ZP7P_o9RPH7jgukFJoizajr0d2Rku9dfhJ36Yw8DFPbd9A/s320/27.jpg" /></a><br />
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</div>Colinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13983021751924748485noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4333132788232790338.post-91808514330343268612013-02-11T09:26:00.000-08:002013-02-11T09:26:35.501-08:00Red Pillar of MermozWith the clock ticking on Dylan's two-week Patagonia sojourn, we have continued to try to make use of every bit of decent weather. Last Wednesday we hiked into the Torre Valley and up to the Niponino bivouac, with plans to try something on the Torres on Thursday. When our 2am alarm went off the winds were very strong and we went back to sleep. At the 4am alarm the winds were still very strong, and at the 6am alarm we finally turned off the alarm completely. At 9am we woked up to good weather, but at that point it was too late to try any of our hoped-for objectives, so we hiked out to town.<br />
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On Friday we hiked into the once-popular and now-deserted Rio Blanco basecamp, for one last shot of alpine climbing on Saturday. On Saturday we left Rio Blanco at 4am, and hiked up to the east side of Aguja Mermoz for a crack at the "Red Pillar." We were soon over the bergschrund, and knowing that the summit ridge would be very dry, we left our boots, crampons and ice tools at the base of the pillar, free to enjoy the climbing with almost no weight on our backs. The quality of the climbing on the Red Pillar was as good as everyone says, and a bit harder of a route than I had expected. The route does have a lot of bolts immediately next to perfect cracks, but to be honest it wasn't as atrocious or offensive as I had expected.<br />
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Dylan has a true passion for rock climbing, and thus wanted to try to free-climb all the pitches on the Red Pillar. Although that's not normally my style in the mountains, I was happy to go along with such a plan - after all, if there's any route here that is really worth trying to free-climb, the Red Pillar is probably it, with almost zero commitment, very safe climbing, and very high-quality pitches. This made us a bit slower, but in the end we both managed to free everything first try, although in my case that was only because Dylan led all the crux pitches, and I enjoyed the luxury of "sending" the cruxes with a top-rope! We reached the summit in the early evening, and despite two stuck rappels managed to re-cross the bergschrund just after dark. We slogged down the glacier, took a one-hour nap at Rio Blanco, and then hiked back to town - arriving at my apartment an hour and a half before Dylan's shuttle to the airport! A classic finish to a quick Patagonia hit!<br />
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Dylan leading the third pitch, the first of the crux 5.11+ pitches:<br />
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Colin following the third pitch. Photo by Dylan Johnson:<br />
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Dylan on the fourth pitch, also 5.11+:<br />
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Colin following the fourth pitch. Photo by Dylan Johnson:<br />
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With Fitz Roy behind, Colin starting up the fifth pitch - the first of two perfect hand-crack pitches. Photo by Dylan Johnson:<br />
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Colin leading perfect 5.10 handcrack on the sixth pitch. Photo by Dylan Johnson:<br />
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Dylan following the sixth pitch:<br />
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Dylan leading the seventh pitch - another 5.11+ crux:<br />
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Colin following the seventh pitch. Photo by Dylan Johnson:<br />
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Dylan starting up the tenth pitch, another 5.11+:<br />
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With Fitz behind, Dylan leading the eleventh pitch, another 5.11+:<br />
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Colin following the eleventh pitch. Photo by Dylan Johnson:<br />
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Dylan on the summit of Aguja Mermoz:<br />
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</div>Colinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13983021751924748485noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4333132788232790338.post-92199615819474911152013-02-04T15:47:00.000-08:002013-02-04T15:47:00.408-08:00La Via FunhogsMy good friend Dylan Johnson has managed to briefly escape his responsibilities as a new father and self-employed architect to come down to El Chalten for some alpine adventure. Since he is only here for a whopping two weeks, and since he arrived exactly at the end of the enormous, two-week weather window, he was understandably a bit stressed as to whether or not he would get to go alpine climbing while here. Given these circumstances, we have been watching the weather forecasts like hawks, looking for every possible opportunity to do something in the mountains. Last week we hiked into the mountains to try something off the Glaciar Fitz Roy Norte, but with very high winds when the 3am alarm went off, it ended up being just another hike with heavy packs.<br />
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After looking at the weather forecasts on Friday morning we wrote off alpine climbing for the weekend, and figured we'd go bouldering in the afternoon. However, while eating our pre-bouldering empanadas, we watched the skies getting clearer, and rationalized that perhaps the weather forecast was good enough for alpine climbing after all. So, it wasn't until 3pm that we made plans to try Fitz Roy the next day, and not until 6:30pm that we finally started hiking towards Laguna de los Tres. We reached our bivy at Laguna de los Tres at dusk, and lay down for a few hours of sleep.<br />
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On Saturday morning we left Laguna de los Tres at 3:45 am, and headed up towards Paso Superior with good snow conditions. Our plan was to climb up to the Col de los Americanos (the col between Aguja de la Silla and Cerro Fitz Roy), and decide at that point if the weather was good enough to try the California Route (aka Funhog Route) on Fitz Roy, or simply Aguja de la Silla as a back-up plan. With a bit of fresh snow from the previous week of stormy weather, and no other climbers around due to the marginal weather forecast, it felt like the "old Patagonia," that I often miss.<br />
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At the Col de los Americanos it was chilly and definitely windy, but not unreasonably windy, so we decided to stick with Plan A, and headed up the California Route. The California Route is among the easiest routes on Fitz Roy, and ended up being the perfect route choice for the day. I think it was the biggest objective we could've succeeded on that day, considering the wind and cold. The Supercanaleta could've also been reasonable in such weather, but is currently in terrible condition.<br />
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The climbing on the California route is mostly very moderate, with only a few pitches of mid-5.10. But, with the weather conditions preventing us from ever donning rock shoes, we still eagerly pulled on gear here and there. We finally reached the summit a bit after 7pm, and eager to get off the mountain before the winds increased, headed down immediately. The descent fortunately went quite smoothly, and at 3:15, just a bit under 24 hours after departing, we reached our tent back at Laguna de los Tres. A great climb, and particularly satisfying to have snuck it in to a marginal window!<br />
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Colin harnessing up at the bergschrund below La Brecha de los Italianos, with an awesome sunrise over Lago Viedma. Photo by Dylan Johnson:<br />
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Dylan climbing up to La Brecha de los Italianos, via the left-hand route, with Laguna de los Tres far below:<br />
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Dylan in some 4th-class mixed terrain below La Brecha de los Italianos:<br />
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Dylan climbing 4th-class terrain from La Brecha up to La Silla:<br />
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Dylan climbing up to the Col de los Americanos, with La Brecha behind:<br />
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Dylan low on the California route:<br />
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Colin doing some low-angle aid climbing low on the California route. Photo by Dylan Johnson:<br />
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Dylan leading a short squeeze-chimney:<br />
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Dylan mid-route, with Cerro Domo Blanco in the background:<br />
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Dylan nearing the junction with the Supercanaleta:<br />
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Dylan reaching the junction with the Supercanaleta:<br />
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Colin climbing a little squeeze chimney near the top of the Supercanaleta. Photo by Dylan Johnson:<br />
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Colin happily belaying on the upper portion of the Supercanaleta. Photo by Dylan Johnson:<br />
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Dylan high on the Supercanaleta, with the Torres behind:<br />
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Dylan near the top of the Supercanaleta, as clouds engulf the Pollone group:<br />
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Colin leading the last hard pitch of the Supercanaleta. Photo by Dylan Johnson:<br />
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Dylan at a spectacular belay near the top of the Supercanaleta:<br />
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Colin on 3rd-class terrain above the top of the Supercanaleta. Photo by Dylan Johnson:<br />
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Dylan nearing the summit:<br />
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On top of Fitz! Dylan's first time, and now my eighth!<br />
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</div>Colinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13983021751924748485noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4333132788232790338.post-82549761596025755372013-01-31T13:19:00.000-08:002013-01-31T13:19:26.220-08:00The CorkscrewAfter Sarah and I had rested from Fitz Roy, we unfortunately squandered several more days of good weather. However, this weather window turned out to be longest I have ever seen here in El Chalten, and I had yet another chance to go climbing. Sarah headed to Bariloche to start an intensive Spanish language course, and I teamed up with fellow Seattle climber, Chad Kellogg, for another crack at Cerro Torre. Chad had just made back-to-back attempts on Cerro Torre's Southeast Ridge with another friend from home, Jens Holsten. We waited in town for Chad to get two full rest days, and then hiked up to Norwegos on the 23rd.<br />
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I first met Chad when I was sixteen years old, at a dinner gathering at our friend Andreas Schmidt's house. Despite having been friends for over a decade, Chad and I had never climbed together before, apart from a few belays at the crag and climbing gym, and a few ski touring days. So, as we organized our equipment and strategy, we also got to know each other a bit better. Our plan was to attempt the "Corkscrew" linkup, which climbs up most of Cerro Torre's southeast ridge, then crosses the upper south face on a hanging icefield, and finally follows the Ragni Route to the summit. This linkup had been discussed for decades before it was finally completed in 2008 by Norwegian climbers Trym Atle Saeland and Ole Lied. Trym and Ole had planned to climb the "Salvaterra variation" on the southeast ridge, but finding it covered in rime ice, settled to use the 90-meter Maestri bolt ladder to the right.<br />
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On the 24th Chad and I got a leisurely start, and had a slow, relaxed day climbing from Norwegos to the Col de la Patienca, at the base of the Southeast Ridge. On the 25th we left all our bivouac equipment at the col, and departed at 2:00am with just daypacks. The rock was incredibly dry (in fact, the conditions in the mountains here were the driest I have ever seen - even more so than last season), and we made fast progress, starting up the Salvaterra Variation at first light. As is common practice for greatest efficiency, we divided the leading into two large blocks based on our skills, so I led all the rock on the Southeast Ridge, and Chad would take over on the Ragni Route. Not only did this allow us to lead pitches fastest, but we were also able to save weight, by bringing only one pair of rock shoes.<br />
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At the top of the Salvaterra variation Trym and Ole had made one rappel to access the hanging icefield on the upper south face, but we found we were able to traverse onto it easily, and reached the Ragni Route in two long simul-climbing pitches. It was cool to be on a seldom-visited aspect of the mountain, and it was also cool to see a few relics from Infinito Sud, Ermanno Salvaterra's epic journey on the south face. Upon joining the Ragni Route, at the top of the feature known as "El Elmo," Chad took us swiftly up these classic ice pitches. It was getting late in the afternoon though, and I was worried that the last, crux pitch would start turning to slush in the full sun. Thus, when Chad needed a short break to re-fuel at the base of the last pitch, I took one more lead, simply to make sure we got up the last pitch before it got any softer.<br />
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We reached the summit just before our Slovenian friends Luka Krajnc and Tadej Krišelj, who had made the third fair-means ascent of the Southeast Ridge, and got to high-five at the base of the summit mushroom! The rappels down the Southeast Ridge went as smoothly as can be expected, but of course we took our sweet time to not get any ropes stuck, and, as is par for the course, spent most of the night rappelling. At 1:45am, just under 24 hours after departing, we returned to the Col de la Patiencia, and spent a few hours eating, drinking and chatting with Luka and Tadej. As the sky began to grow light on the 26th we got on our way again, finishing the rappels down to the glacier, and slogging down the glacier to Norwegos, where we took another short break. Down at Niponino we finally stopped to sleep a couple hours, but then hurried off to town while the fantastically-long weather window finally began to break down.<br />
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Chad and my climb gets the distinction of being the first "fair means" ascent of the Corkscrew, but since I know Trym and Ole personally I am 100% sure that they would have had no problem doing it without the bolt ladders as well if they had experienced such phenomenal conditions. Also, it is worth noting that in the last couple of weeks preceding our climb, the Corkscrew had seen two attempts by Thomas Meling (NO) and Joel Frans (SE). They had attempted to link the southeast ridge directly into "Directa Huarpe," a variation of the Ragni Route that was established just earlier this season. This would for sure make a more difficult and more aesthetic version of the Corkscrew, that is a worthy objective to be finished.<br />
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Evening light on Fitz Roy and Poincenot from our bivy at the Col de la Patiencia. Photo by Chad Kellogg:<br />
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Chad following low on the Southeast Ridge:<br />
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Chad following a few pitches higher:<br />
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Chad nearing the base of the Salvaterra Variation at first light:<br />
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Colin leading the A1 first pitch of the Salvaterra Variation at first light. Photo by Chad Kellogg:<br />
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Chad nearing the top of the A1 pitch, with Torre de la Medialuna and El Mocho far below:<br />
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Chad nearing the top of one of the arete pitches on the Salvaterra Variation:<br />
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Chad at the top of the Salvaterra Variation:<br />
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Colin traversing across the hanging icefield on the upper south face. Photo by Chad Kellogg:<br />
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Chad traversing across the hanging icefield on the upper south face:<br />
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Chad further across the south face:<br />
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Chad starting the second simul-climbing pitch across the south face, with Cerro Adela Norte to the left:<br />
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Chad leading the super-classic headwall pitch of the Ragni Route:<br />
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Colin jumaring the top of the headwall pitch of the Ragni Route. Photo by Chad Kellogg:<br />
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Chad starting up the third-to-last pitch of the Ragni Route:<br />
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Chad leading the second-to-last pitch of the Ragni Route as it began to get slushy:<br />
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Colin leading the last pitch of the Ragni Route. It was easier than it had been in December, which was already much easier than it had been in November, which was already five times easier than it is normally! Photo by Chad Kellogg:<br />
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Chad coming up through the natural tunnel of the last pitch:<br />
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Chad heading up to the summit:<br />
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Colin arriving at the summit. Photo by Chad Kellogg:<br />
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Cumbre! Photo by Chad Kellogg:<br />
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Luka and Tadej rappelling down Cerro Torre's east headwall. Photo by Chad Kellogg:<br />
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Chad down-climbing to a rappel anchor with the east headwall above:<br />
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Colin rappelling below the Col de la Patiencia on the morning of the 26th, with the east face of Cerro Torre above. This is by far the driest I have ever seen Cerro Torre. Photo by Chad Kellogg:<br />
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Looking back at the Torres as the two-week weather finally began to end. Photo by Chad Kellogg:<br />
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</div>Colinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13983021751924748485noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4333132788232790338.post-63233033367893486122013-01-17T14:01:00.001-08:002013-01-18T04:31:46.244-08:00Mate, Porro, y Todo con mi DamaMy girlfriend, Sarah Hart, is joining me for some of this season in Chalten, and arrived on the same day that Jon took off. We had a week of bouldering in relatively stormy weather, and then yet another weather window descended upon Chalten - this time an extended one. Although Sarah's only two previous ascents in the Chalten massif were Aguja Innominata and Cerro Solo, we decided that we had to try to profit from such a long weather window, and headed to the biggest objective we had planned to try together: the Goretta Pillar of Fitz Roy.<br />
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We decided to try the route, "Mate, Porro, y Todo lo Demas," which was climbed to the top of the Goretta Pillar in 2008 by Rolando Garibotti and Bean Bowers, and finished to the summit in 2011 by Matjaz Dusic and Lovro Vrsnik. Since then it has had a handful of subsequent ascents. Sarah, gracious and generous as always, agreed to a plan to let me do all the leading. Although our rock climbing abilities are very similar, we figured that all my experience climbing in the range would make us climb a bit faster with this strategy. Additionally, since I have already climbed Fitz Roy via the Goretta Pillar two times before, trying to lead everything myself would make it still an exciting challenge for myself. However, to make the experience still enjoyable and exciting for Sarah, we opted not to take jumars, which undoubtably is a less efficient strategy, and more challenge yet!<br />
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We hiked into the Rio Electrico valley on Friday, January 11th, but because of wind and rain decided not to continue up to the Piedras Negras camp, and instead camped down in the forest above Piedra del Fraile. On Saturday we left our camp early, and made our approach over Paso del Cuadrado and up the Glaciar Fitz Roy Norte. As we climbed up the snow slopes below the west side of the Goretta Pillar we realized that conditions were much worse than we had hoped - a lot of the rock was snowed up, especially on the lower portion of the pillar. Nonetheless, the weather window was forecasted to last long enough to afford a slow pace, and we started up the initial pitches wearing crampons and mixed climbing in our very basic ice gear. The first part of the route is 4th-class rock where one would normally simul-climb, but in the snowy conditions we decided to pitch it out. When the fifth class pitches began, I was forced to climb the first several mostly on direct aid, using an ice tool to chip the ice out for almost every placement. We lost a lot of time on these initial pitches, but as the sun came onto the rock the ice began to melt very quickly, and as we gained height the rock became drier and drier.<br />
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At the end of our first day we had only climbed about half-way up the Pillar, and were forced to bivouac on a small uncomfortable ledge, rather than the large terrace two-thirds of the way up the Pillar. We got a leisurely start on our second day, and climbed up to the large terrace on pleasantly almost-dry rock. After a lunch break on the large terrace, we tackled the upper pitches of the Pillar, which now were unfortunately running with large amounts of water. We arrived to our second bivouac, the top of the Goretta Pillar, the same way we had arrived to our first bivouac - by headlamp. The one time I have previously slept on top of the Goretta Pillar it was quite comfortable, but this time it was very snowy and we spent at least an hour and half chopping ice before we settled onto our bivouac ledge.<br />
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Already quite tired, we got a leisurely start again on our third day, rappelled into the notch between the Goretta Pillar and the upper mountain, and tackled our last block of hard climbing. We once again had to deal with a lot of ice in the cracks and running water, but at least at this point we were quite accustomed to it! We reached the summit of Fitz Roy in the early evening, and were joined there by two young climbers from Provincia San Juan, Carlitos and Iñaki, who had just climbed El Corazon, on the east face. Sarah and I decided to start descending immediately, as the wind was already beginning to pick up. However, after a couple of rappels, Carlitos and Iñaki yelled to us to wait, and asked if they might rappel with us. As it turned out, they had core-shot one of their ropes on the ascent, and with only one usable rope were going to be in for a tricky descent. Additionally, since they had originally planned to descend El Corazon, they had only one pair of crampons, and to top things off, Carlitos had taken a big fall on the ascent that had left him with a broken heel! Rappelling as a group of four is of course much slower than a group of two, so we ended up spending another night on the mountain, at La Brecha de los Italianos, but it was all OK because Iñaki treated us to mashed potatoes and soup - a welcome trade since Sarah and I were now out of food! We finished the rappels and hiked out the next day, completing a very satisfying adventure!<br />
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We were joined on "Mate, Porro, y Todo lo Demas," by two other teams, Kate Rutherford and Madeleine Sorkin (from the US), and Luciano Fiorenza, Jorge ____, and Sergio Tartari (from Bariloche, Argentina and Salinas, Brasil). Everyone was happy to share the route, and congrats especially to Kate and Madeleine for making an all-female ascent of Fitz Roy (I believe the first via the Goretta Pillar, and perhaps the fourth ever of Fitz Roy).<br />
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Colin on the approach up the Glaciar Fitz Roy Norte, with Aguja Pollone looking pretty above. Photo by Sarah Hart:<br />
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Starting up the snow slopes below the northwest side of Fitz Roy. Photo by Sarah Hart:<br />
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Sarah getting psyched on the approach:<br />
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Sarah climbing up the snow slopes below the route:<br />
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Sarah climbing in snowy conditions on the fourth-class terrain at the base of the route:<br />
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Colin aiding low on the route. Photo by Sarah Hart:<br />
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Still snowy... Photo by Sarah Hart:<br />
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Sarah at a special belay stance, as the ice started to melt out of the cracks:<br />
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Still aiding up a slushy dihedral:<br />
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Finally some drier rock! Getting into some of the nicer pitches. Photo by Sarah Hart:<br />
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High quality rock climbing! Photo by Sarah Hart:<br />
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Always more granite... Late on our first day:<br />
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Colin at the first bivouac. Photo by Sarah Hart:<br />
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On day two, Colin starting up the pitches above the large terrace. Photo by Sarah Hart:<br />
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Sarah climbing above the large terrace on day two:<br />
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Colin nearing the top of the Goretta Pillar. Photo by Sarah Hart:<br />
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Sarah near the top of the Goretta Pillar:<br />
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Sarah on day three, climbing one of the last hard pitches, with the top of the Goretta Pillar below:<br />
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Sarah still psyched after two cold, uncomfortable bivouacs:<br />
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Colin on one of the last steep pitches. Photo by Sarah Hart:<br />
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Sarah finishing the last rock-shoe pitch:<br />
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Sarah coming up slushy ice near the top of Fitz Roy:<br />
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On the summit of Fitz Roy, for my seventh time and Sarah's first time! Photo by Sarah Hart:<br />
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Sarah on the steepest rappel of the Franco-Argentina descent:<br />
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With all the rappels finished, myself, Sarah, Iñaki and Carlitos relax a bit on the Glaciar Piedras Blancas:<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOl0kjqlTwUXCsWsdTEUdgqWB00Xo5gy0mJhz_aiDl9YZZu1BD76JEUnDgVNIp20Eop_oxKnIs0zIJpRh2ajYqxu_2i-otVyfgPtHNFnrqqs0HHyvixwQMJVnNHhkRi93fCc5CcSsfDb0/s1600/25.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="300" width="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOl0kjqlTwUXCsWsdTEUdgqWB00Xo5gy0mJhz_aiDl9YZZu1BD76JEUnDgVNIp20Eop_oxKnIs0zIJpRh2ajYqxu_2i-otVyfgPtHNFnrqqs0HHyvixwQMJVnNHhkRi93fCc5CcSsfDb0/s400/25.jpg" /></a></div>Colinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13983021751924748485noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4333132788232790338.post-20220145068055061512013-01-03T10:58:00.000-08:002013-01-03T10:58:12.648-08:00FestervilleFor Jon's last window this season in Patagonia, we hiked back up to Niponino on the last day of 2012, both with lingering colds. On the first day of 2013 we left Niponino early and headed to the Standhardt Col to try "Festerville," the north ridge of Cerro Standhardt, first climbed by Timmy O'Neil and Nathan Martin. After a lot of climbing in crampons over the past few weeks, it was nice to switch to rock shoes for a route, and we were both very impressed by the quality of climbing on Festerville. Jon is a purist, so we didn't bring jumars and tried to free-climb every pitch. This for sure made us slower, but I have to admit it was fun at times to genuinely "try," just as if on a pitch back in Squamish. We topped out in the late evening, as usual finished the rappels early in the morning, and after a nap in Niponino hiked back to town. Festerville is definitely a route I would recommend!<br />
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Jon at the start of Festerville, with the Standhardt Col behind:<br />
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Jon low on Festerville, with Cerro Rincon and Cerro Domo Blanco in the background:<br />
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Jon on the third pitch, which reminded me of "High Plains Drifter" back in Squamish:<br />
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Jon coming up the fourth pitch, which was reminiscent of the "Roman Chimneys" back in Squamish:<br />
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Jon on the fifth pitch, which, despite not being particularly difficult, I thought was the best pitch on the route:<br />
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Nice rock on Festerville, with Fitz Roy and Aguja Poincenot behind:<br />
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Jon climbing immaculate rock, about half-way up Festerville:<br />
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Jon higher up on Festerville, with the Ice Cap in the background:<br />
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Looking to the north from the junction with Exocet:<br />
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Jon on the summit of Cerro Standhardt:<br />
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Looking south at the north faces of Torre Egger and Cerro Torre:<br />
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Mandatory cheesy summit photo!<br />
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We arrived back in town to find a bunch of newly-arrived gringos. I ran into Kelly Cordes on the street as he was looking for "empanadas and vodka," and he joined the sausage-fest back at our apartment:<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvgrXO4AbdUUErKqhAELvIvD6EL5TZGFIxArd5xs0wzrLMqIna4HfZKjxP2DJQR0yTa7CHNO5BkeEPVgIEIwhzxKJN7RJpaUpWhNYAoYTNoqATxP5IljJU5jVuETyaFmnRklJZgLhQqvs/s1600/13.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="300" width="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvgrXO4AbdUUErKqhAELvIvD6EL5TZGFIxArd5xs0wzrLMqIna4HfZKjxP2DJQR0yTa7CHNO5BkeEPVgIEIwhzxKJN7RJpaUpWhNYAoYTNoqATxP5IljJU5jVuETyaFmnRklJZgLhQqvs/s400/13.jpg" /></a></div>Colinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13983021751924748485noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4333132788232790338.post-13340823877785202292012-12-30T13:28:00.000-08:002012-12-31T02:48:49.678-08:00Ragnivenas AttemptPapa Noel brought a few days of calm but humid weather to the Chalten massif over Christmas, with poor conditions for rock climbing, but good conditions for crampon climbing. Jon and I hiked into the Torre Valley on the 23rd, and on the 24th we passed through the Standhardt Col into the Circo de las Altares with heavy packs. On Christmas day, we, along with an incredible 20-or-so other people, climbed Cerro Torre via the Ragni Route. It was of course a bit disheartening to arrive at the top of El Elmo and see about six rope-teams in the mixed pitches, but in the end everyone made it to the top on Christmas day, and everyone seemed to get along well and be at peace with the crowding.<br />
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After arriving on the summit of Cerro Torre, Jon and I made only three rappels down the Ragni Route, and then diverged for some adventure rappelling down the north face, arriving in the early evening for a bivy at the Col de la Mentira (also known as the Col of Conquest). On the 26th we slept in and started late up our main objective: the fantastic ice route, Venas Azules, established last year on the south face of Torre Egger by Bjørn-Eivind Årtun and Ole Lied. The climbing on Venas Azules was superb, but we were moving a bit slowly, and were still two and a half pitches from the summit when the weather took a fairly sudden turn for the worse. In ten minutes we went from an "everything is great," attitude to a decision to descend immediately.<br />
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The descent back down to the Col de la Mentira was quick and easy, but the descent from there down to the glacier took the entire night, and was fairly epic, with lots of shivering at rappel stations, and sometimes immense amounts of spindrift. We accidentally got off route on the very first rappel from the col, and it set us on a trajectory of rappelling down virgin terrain in the gut between Cerro Torre and Torre Egger. Jon did a great job of leading the entire descent, including the most insane rappel of my life - an enormous free-hanging rappel, which with 64-meter ropes and three directional pieces to stay close to the wall, we only managed to touch down on the wall below with two meters of rope to spare, all in total darkness with tons of spindrift!<br />
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Finally we made it to the base of Cerro Torre's east face, with no pitons left, one micro stopper left, and two cams missing as well, but that evening we were back in Chalten, safe and sound. I had hiked in with a slight sore throat, and after three days of high exertion and shivering my cold had degenerated into a nasty one, which of course Jon then picked up as well. So now we are resting in town, and hoping for strong immune systems to send us back into the mountains tomorrow.<br />
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Sunrise from low on the west face of Cerro Torre. A sea of clouds (very abnormal for Patagonia) below Cerro Adelas, Cerro Solo and Cerro Huemul:<br />
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The Cerro Torre headwall on Christmas day, 2012:<br />
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The Cerro Torre headwall in early January 2007. Photo by Kelly Cordes:<br />
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Parallel leaders on the pitch above the headwall:<br />
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The pitch above the headwall in 2007. Photo by Kelly Cordes:<br />
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Jon taking photos at the base of the last, crux pitch:<br />
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Norwegian climber Sigbjørn Veslegard leading the last, crux pitch:<br />
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The last pitch in 2007. Photo by Kelly Cordes:<br />
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Jon walking to the top of Cerro Torre:<br />
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Jon and myself looking a bit deranged on the summit:<br />
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Rappelling down the north arete of Cerro Torre:<br />
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Jon on the first pitch of Venas Azules:<br />
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Jon dry-tooling up a finger crack to avoid poor-quality ice on the second pitch of Venas Azules:<br />
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Jon starting up the A1 corner pitch of Venas Azules:<br />
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Jon coming up the fourth pitch of Venas Azules:<br />
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Jon on the fifth pitch of Venas Azules, a few minutes before we bailed:<br />
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Jon rappelling towards the Col de la Mentira in rapidly deteriorating weather:<br />
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Jon on the last rap into the Col de la Mentira:<br />
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Jon hiking down towards Norwegos, and eventually Niponino, with the sunrise behind:<br />
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<br />
Jon and I found much icier conditions on Tobogan than Rolo and Silvo experienced, allowing us to enjoy high-quality ice and mixed climbing, rather than the "alpine groveling" that Rolo refers to. And while the dry conditions forced Rolo and Silvo into aid on some of the lower portions of Tobogan, the good ice conditions allowed Jon and I to make the first free ascent (if you're into that kind of thing... :P), at reasonable difficulties I would estimate to be AI4, M6.<br />
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I believe that we made the second ascent of Tobogan to the Col dei Sogni, but, like Rolo and Silvo, we didn't manage to climb any higher than the col, and the route remains unfinished to the summit of Punta Herron or Cerro Standhardt.<br />
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Jon soloing up the mellow first pitch of Tobogan:<br />
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Jon coming up to the base of the first steep pitch:<br />
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Jon following the first steep pitch on Tobogan. After the sun went around the corner things re-froze, but on the first few pitches we were climbing wet, dripping ice-slush:<br />
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Jon a few pitches up Tobogan:<br />
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With the pesky sun gone, Jon heads up one of many pitches of excellent AI4 runnels:<br />
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More quality ice climbing!<br />
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Jon on the mid-route traverse:<br />
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Jon leading the crux pitch - an icy, low-angle offwidth, that I would guess to be M6 in the conditions we found:<br />
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Jon leading the last steep pitch on Tobogan, before a mellow ice gully climbs the rest of the way to the Col dei Sogni:<br />
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Jon coming up the last few meters to the Col dei Sogni:<br />
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Jon at the Col dei Sogni, with a frosty Spigolo dei Bimbi above, about to start our favorite ritual - rappelling through the night!<br />
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The line of Tobogan (photo from a few years ago):<br />
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Jon also has some of his photos up on his blog:<br />
www.alpinestyle.caColinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13983021751924748485noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4333132788232790338.post-23468939999027979332012-12-14T08:41:00.000-08:002012-12-14T08:41:10.799-08:00Guillaumet LapsFor the past couple weeks in El Chalten my climbing has been mostly limited to sport climbing at El Calamar, Chalten's best crag. However, I have gotten a couple day-trips in to climb Aguja Guillaumet. When the weather forecast is marginal, and a day of approaching and camping in storm isn't appealing, a long day trip is often the best choice, and since Aguja Guillaumet has one of the shortest approaches of the mountains here, it is a logical option for a day trip. Climbing Guillaumet in a day from El Chalten is probably comparable to climbing Snowpatch Spire in a day from Golden, B.C.<br />
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The first Guillaumet lap was with Spanish climbing-machine Manu Cordova. Both of us had just hiked out from foiled forays in the Torre Valley, and after seeing the updated weather forecast, we hatched Guillaumet plans at midnight over pizzas. After a couple hours of sleep we took off for a climb of Guillaumet's classic first-ascent route: the Comesaña-Fonrouge, on a day that turned out to have better-than-expected weather.<br />
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The second Guillaumet lap, now my eighth trip to the summit of Chalten's most accessible spire, was with Canadian Rockies hardman Jon MF'ing Walsh. Jon is joining me down here for a few weeks, hopefully with lots of climbing, although the weather is quite unsettled for now. We climbed Guillaumet via the Guillot-Conqueugniot on a fairly stormy day. When we topped out on Guillaumet Jon had been in Chalten for almost exactly 48 hours, and we had already spent two afternoons sessioning crimpy sport climbs at El Calamar!<br />
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Looking up at the northwest side of Aguja Guillaumet. Photo by Manu Cordova:<br />
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Manu leading the classic traverse pitch on the Comesaña-Fonrouge:<br />
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Colin following a pitch on the Comesaña-Fonrouge. Photo by Manu Cordova:<br />
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We forgot to take a cheesy self-portrait on the summit itself, so we snapped this one while already part-way down the descent. Photo by Manu Cordova:<br />
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Manu rapping the Comesaña-Fonrouge:<br />
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Jon coming up to Paso Guillaumet in colder conditions:<br />
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Nice ambience below the east face of Guillaumet, looking across at the east faces of Aguja Mermoz and Fitz Roy:<br />
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Slogging up to the bergschrund, with Cerro Electrico behind:<br />
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Jon in the Guillot-Conqueugniot gully:<br />
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Jon reaching the top of the Guillot-Conqueugniot gully:<br />
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Plenty of blowing snow in the air on the last 5th-class pitch:<br />
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Another Guillaumet lap!<br />
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Jon rapping Guillaumet in worsening weather:<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipt6mjHMVKgbI5RBrfV5dRNp_ARYwdlwtJUUAEpFphsc-mb4fxA7Fxzd-89GRagZnFQN3hZrNwb742zqC5bTsT8IBqkh5NnaRPXp7VAoW7ZrQ87BjC5cqNuVVT-mVjCkwpCsDBWO_uWm0/s1600/13.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="300" width="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipt6mjHMVKgbI5RBrfV5dRNp_ARYwdlwtJUUAEpFphsc-mb4fxA7Fxzd-89GRagZnFQN3hZrNwb742zqC5bTsT8IBqkh5NnaRPXp7VAoW7ZrQ87BjC5cqNuVVT-mVjCkwpCsDBWO_uWm0/s400/13.jpg" /></a></div>Colinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13983021751924748485noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4333132788232790338.post-32455334167229404362012-12-01T11:18:00.000-08:002012-12-01T11:18:06.341-08:00Cerro Solo and Cerro TorreI have once again escaped to the Austral summer in Argentine Patagonia, returning as usual to the town of El Chalten. The nature of Patagonian alpinism continues to evolve at a rapid pace. The availability of reliable weather forecasts and route information (in particular, the publication of the massif's first guidebook, by Rolando Garibotti), combined with a large number of very good climbers always on hand, has turned once-legendary routes into commonplace routes. The Ragni Route on the west face of Cerro Torre, for instance, is quickly becoming Patagonia's version of Le Ginat or Colton-MacIntyre. With much longer approaches, and steeper, larger peaks, the Chalten massif will never be quite like the Alps, but it is certainly evolving in that direction.<br />
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The most notable change this season in particular, is in the ice conditions. The very hot, dry Austral summer of 2011-2012, combined with a relatively dry winter, has left the peaks in very dry conditions. Fitz Roy's Supercanaleta was already melted-out by early November, and the Ragni Route on Cerro Torre currently involves almost zero rime climbing. The glaciers, and the Torre Glacier in particular, continue to ablate at a rate much faster than I've personally seen anywhere else in the world.<br />
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As for me, I've been here almost three weeks now, but because of the various variables in alpine climbing, I've done a lot more hiking with heavy backpacks than I have alpine climbing. For the past couple weeks I've been partnered with the suave Italian metrosexual hipster, poet, culinary artist and alpinist, Andrea Di Donato.<br />
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On a day with decent weather, but not a long enough period for climbing a more serious route, Andrea and I climbed Cerro Solo's southwest face, by Insomnia, a route established last year by local climbers Juan Manuel Raselli and Ignacio Teerink. Insomnia is an example of a trend which I'm sure will continue, of first ascents of moderate classical alpine terrain. There are many mountains in the Chalten massif which have been largely ignored for decades, overshadowed by the Torres and Fitz Roy, but are equivalent to the coolest, most spectacular peaks in The Cascades.<br />
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Finally, last Wednesday, I got to do some of the climbing that I come here for, when Andrea and I made an ascent of Cerro Torre's Ragni Route. It is a climb that I had done before, but I honestly believe it is the most spectacular ice climb in the world, so certainly a route worthy of repeating! We chose to do the climb as a day-trip from the Niponino bivouac in the Torre Valley, approaching via the Standhardt Col, and descending via the Southeast Ridge.<br />
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We left Niponino at 3:00am on the 28th, and with very good conditions on the approach, managed to arrive at what I would call the base of the route (150m below the Col of Hope) at 8:00am. We took a nice relaxing rest stop to melt snow, and finally starting climbing at 10:00am. Andrea took us to the top of The Helmet, and then I led from there to the summit. There were three parties ahead of us on the route (I told you it's turning into the Colton-Mac!), but it wasn't a problem.<br />
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The final, crux pitch of the route did not require any rime digging or tunneling in the current conditions, but because it was a hot day, and because we arrived at the last pitch late in the afternoon, it was melting in the full sun. If it were frozen I could say that it is in much easier condition than normal, but in it's slushy state I felt it was just as serious as the other times I've led the pitch. I was told that the ice screws I placed were pulled out by hand - yikes!<br />
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At 7:50pm Andrea and I arrived on the summit, almost 17 hours after leaving Niponino, and after a quick reorganization we started the long, and perhaps foolhardy nighttime descent of the Southeast Ridge. Patagonia is a master's class in alpine rappelling, and I feel I might have earned my degree by now, as leading endless rappels all night by headlamp is starting to feel pretty standard! We were back on the glacier shortly after first light, and stumbled back into Niponino 29.5 hours after leaving.<br />
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Andrea climbing the lower couloirs on Cerro Solo's Insomnia:<br />
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Colin switching from 60-degree-snow-mode to 4th-class-rock mode, halfway up Insomnia. Cerro Huemul in the background. Photo by Andrea Di Donato:<br />
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Andrea climbing classic, chossy 4th-class rock on Cerro Solo:<br />
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Andrea nearing the ridgecrest on Insomnia, where the line joins the standard route:<br />
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Andrea joining the standard route on Cerro Solo (where the deep snow wallowing began), with Fitz Roy in the background:<br />
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Andrea nearing the summit of Cerro Solo, with Lago Viedma in the background:<br />
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Myself and Andrea on the summit of Cerro Solo, with the business card of Chalten's best hostel. Photo by Andrea Di Donato:<br />
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The line of Insomnia on Cerro Solo:<br />
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Colin rappelling down the west side of the Standhardt Col. Photo by Andrea Di Donato:<br />
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Brew stop below the Col of Hope. Photo by Andrea Di Donato:<br />
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Andrea starting up the Ragni Route, just below the Col of Hope:<br />
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Andrea climbing above the Col of Hope:<br />
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Andrea climbing a short ways below The Helmet:<br />
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Andrea below The Helmet:<br />
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Andrea leading The Helmet:<br />
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Colin on The Helmet:<br />
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Colin starting the mixed pitches. Photo by Andrea Di Donato:<br />
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Andrea in the mixed pitches:<br />
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Colin leading in the mixed pitches. Photo by Andrea Di Donato:<br />
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Colin starting up the headwall. Photo by Andrea Di Donato:<br />
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Colin leading above the headwall. Photo by Andrea Di Donato:<br />
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Colin starting up the last, crux pitch. Photo by Eduardo Gonzalez:<br />
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We were joined at the last pitch by a Spanish team. Self-portrait by Eduardo Gonzalez as Colin leads the last pitch:<br />
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Andrea arriving at the summit of Cerro Torre:<br />
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A moment of celebration before the all-night rappelling! Photo by Andrea Di Donato:<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIrg1s_1tU4OD1mhP1R_D-4Hdp3Tm3EkIg8PPkDyPBCzXwG_hOZdHvH1HoAsArLZDOi0Y6rfiWOVbzqgOBRj0bRnrS2Ic6BDeEApl3Shdb1xsPJQ7vLUdmsG7CZ5dU1drWWBOOWREQaIE/s1600/25.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="300" width="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIrg1s_1tU4OD1mhP1R_D-4Hdp3Tm3EkIg8PPkDyPBCzXwG_hOZdHvH1HoAsArLZDOi0Y6rfiWOVbzqgOBRj0bRnrS2Ic6BDeEApl3Shdb1xsPJQ7vLUdmsG7CZ5dU1drWWBOOWREQaIE/s400/25.jpg" /></a></div>Colinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13983021751924748485noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4333132788232790338.post-77854533348309322862012-09-27T11:06:00.000-07:002012-09-27T11:06:34.415-07:00A Week in the RockiesMy girlfriend, Sarah Hart, and I just spent a week climbing out in the Rockies, enjoying perfect late-summer weather. Mostly we climbed at the Back of the Lake, which is I think one of the highest-quality crags I've ever climbed at (right up there with the Lower Town Wall at Index, and the Motherlode at the Red River Gorge). I did spend two days up in the mountains though - one climbing the Greenwood-Jones on Mt. Temple with Rockies badass Jon Walsh, and one climbing the "Cardiac Arete" on the Grand Sentinel with Sarah. The Greenwood-Jones was a perfect intro for me to alpine rock climbing in the Rockies, and although there were sections of choss, the upper pitches were on very high quality limestone. The Cardiac Arete, a four pitch alpine sport climb, is very fun climbing on very high quality rock - highly recommended!<br />
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Jon at Lake Annette, below the north face of Mt. Temple:<br />
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Colin simul-soloing low on the Greenwood-Jones. Photo by Jon Walsh:<br />
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Jon following our second roped pitch:<br />
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Jon heading up our third roped pitch:<br />
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Colin back on simul-soloing terrain. Photo by Jon Walsh:<br />
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Colin simul-soloing higher on the Greenwood-Jones. Photo by Jon Walsh:<br />
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With the rope on again, Jon heading up a funky little roof:<br />
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Jon coming up the last chossy pitch:<br />
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Colin following the second-to-last pitch, an excellent corner system on good limestone. Photo by Jon Walsh:<br />
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Nice views from the north face of Mt. Temple:<br />
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Jon finishing the last 5th-class pitch of the Greenwood-Jones:<br />
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Colin on the upper East Ridge of Mt. Temple - a nice snow arete, which makes for a classy finish to the route. Photo by Jon Walsh:<br />
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Simul summit photo-taking:<br />
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A raven joined us on the summit. Deltaform Peak behind:<br />
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A view of the Grand Sentinel (the quartzite rock tower) from Sentinel Pass:<br />
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Sarah nearing the base of the Grand Sentinel:<br />
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Steep, juggy climbing on the Cardiac Arete:<br />
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Sarah following the second pitch of the Cardiac Arete:<br />
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Nice exposure on the last pitch of the Cardiac Arete:<br />
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Pretty damn nice scenery - Larch Valley, and the Valley of the Ten Peaks behind:<br />
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Larch trees with fine, fall colors:<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpHpGsadTesWVa9K-VV89McjNBAFa-RpKNASdQajky4PI_qvMN0gerE1o4OC1h6WCpg02m5TcZ5ucR0ukvHYs9ugdZkCqjOj61m8R7y6bflP0LN9wfsFr2zWIPNytY0wYbDB9YPtLpZns/s1600/21.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="300" width="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpHpGsadTesWVa9K-VV89McjNBAFa-RpKNASdQajky4PI_qvMN0gerE1o4OC1h6WCpg02m5TcZ5ucR0ukvHYs9ugdZkCqjOj61m8R7y6bflP0LN9wfsFr2zWIPNytY0wYbDB9YPtLpZns/s400/21.jpg" /></a></div>Colinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13983021751924748485noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4333132788232790338.post-55696879894793320822012-09-13T15:39:00.000-07:002012-09-13T15:39:28.551-07:00Forbidden Peak and Mt. DioneIn the past couple weeks I've been mostly just rock climbing, but made a couple quick trips into local mountains. First, my dad, brother and I made a reunion climb of the West Ridge of Forbidden Peak - a climb that we did all together fifteen years ago, and was an experience that really sparked my passion for climbing mountains.<br />
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Afterwards, I went into the Tantalus Range, just outside of Squamish, with my girlfriend, Sarah Hart, along with Bruce Kay and Chris Christie. In two rope-teams of two we climbed the south face of Dione, by an alpine sport-route established last year.<br />
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My dad, Jeff, my brother, Booth, and myself at our camp in Boston Basin, with the awesome north face of Mt. Johannesberg in the background. We adhered to a family tradition of carrying a pie to the bivy:<br />
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Jeff and Booth on the small glacier below the south face of Forbidden, with morning alpenglow on Jo-berg and other Cascade Pass peaks:<br />
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Booth below the West Ridge Couloir, which was quite broken up. This late in the season it is certainly easier to just climb the rock to the left of the couloir, but climbing the couloir itself maintains the mixed alpine nature of the classic route!<br />
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Jeff coming up the glacier, with Jo-berg behind:<br />
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Booth and Jeff climbing in the moat of the West Ridge Couloir:<br />
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Jeff on the West Ridge, with Mt. Torment and Eldorado Peak in the background:<br />
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Booth on the West Ridge, with Eldorado Peak and Moraine Lake behind, and Mt. Shuksan in the distance:<br />
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Dad and bro taking a break on the West Ridge, trying to re-create a photo from our ascent fifteen years earlier:<br />
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My dad is now 63 years old, but he can high-step better than I can! Down-climbing a gendarme just before the summit:<br />
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Hombres Haley on the summit of Forbidden:<br />
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One of the short rappels on the northeast ledges descent route:<br />
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My dad and brother were both using pretty old boots, and it would be the last climb for both pairs:<br />
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Haley bros on the descent, trying to re-create an old photo:<br />
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OK, these boots are really done for now!<br />
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Bruce Kay on the first pitch of the south face of Dione:<br />
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Sarah leading on the south face of Dione. The lower half of the route was mediocre, but the upper pitches make it worthwhile. Photo by Chris Christie:<br />
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Colin leading on the south face of Dione. Photo by Chris Christie:<br />
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Sarah leading near the top of the route. Photo by Chris Christie:<br />
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Colin leading the last 5th-class pitch - a fun pitch, steep and juggy. Photo by Chris Christie:<br />
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Bruce Kay on the descent of the SE Ridge of Dione:<br />
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Sarah descending the SE Ridge:<br />
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Chris Christie hiking back to our camp at the Red Tit Col, with the south side of Dione in the background. Photo by Sarah Hart:<br />
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Colin above Lake Lovely Water on the hike out to Squamish. Photo by Sarah Hart:<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3v7-NLcijZ4gnJdgORUB_od3OablpwgnZvL5O0JfgGo7M6uVa-9DqFYAxSRDP5aQGvWrU1WRNWWUZ6PSTUyHdL2jBiXigphmLwegI4xx7cTH4yF4T99fs8n0ukTns11shuVMbbaQ7quU/s1600/23.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="300" width="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3v7-NLcijZ4gnJdgORUB_od3OablpwgnZvL5O0JfgGo7M6uVa-9DqFYAxSRDP5aQGvWrU1WRNWWUZ6PSTUyHdL2jBiXigphmLwegI4xx7cTH4yF4T99fs8n0ukTns11shuVMbbaQ7quU/s400/23.jpg" /></a></div>Colinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13983021751924748485noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4333132788232790338.post-72006515640249597992012-08-23T16:41:00.000-07:002012-08-24T09:25:32.199-07:00How I Blew My Wadd - Trying to Imitate Frank JourdanI had planned to spend most of this summer rockclimbing in Squamish, and little of it in the mountains. However, I was back in Squamish for only a few days after my road trip with Dylan before taking off to the mountains again. This past winter at the Vancouver International Film Festival I met Scott Pick, from Surrey, who has a passion for photographing mountains. He was heading into the Waddington Range with his wife, Marina, and they had a spare seat in the helicopter. OK, well, in that case... back to the mountains!<br />
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Scott, Marina and I started the drive from Surrey to Bluff Lake on the morning of August 11th. On the long drive I poured over Don Serl's excellent guidebook to the range, and considered my options. The two objectives that interested me most were to attempt a solo ascent of Mt. Waddington or a solo ascent of Serra 5. I brainstormed what might be the best ways to access either climb, and soon came to the conclusion that the best plan would be to climb one of them, and then, rather than return to the Plummer Hut to rest and resupply, simply make a high traverse to the other one along a portion of the "Waddington Traverse" (especially considering that we had only one week of time in the range). In 2004, on my only other visit to the Waddington Range, Mark Bunker and I had made the 2nd ascent of the "Waddington Traverse," so at least I know roughly what terrain I would encounter. I decided that the mighty Wadd was most important to me, so I would go there first.<br />
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The weather forecast on the 11th was quite good, and this is rare in the Coast Range, so I hoped to start as soon as possible, and during the drive I did as much planning as possible as to what equipment I should prepare myself with for a five-day odyssey. We managed to fly into the range that evening, arriving at the Plummer Hut at 7pm. I packed as quickly as I could, and passed out by 11pm.<br />
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On the morning of August 12th I took off from the Plummer Hut at 8am, descended to the lower Tiedemann Glacier, and then began to work my way up towards the Waddington-Combatant Col. Although it was a big snow year, the glaciers in the Waddingon Range continue to shrink and fracture rapidly (the differences from 2004 were readily apparent), and getting up to the Waddinton-Combatant col was much trickier and nastier than I had expected, with lots of intricate crevasse navigation and some significant icefall hazard as well. On the upper portion of the way up to the Col I started to follow footprints, which at least made my route-finding decisions easier. I reached the col in mid afternoon, and ran into the only climbers I encountered on my journey - three Spanish alpinists, Gustavo, Javier, and I forget the third climber's name. It was their tracks from the day before that I had picked up on my way to the Col (a lucky coincidence, considering that there was probably only one other party that travelled through the icefall in the preceding month). They were on a long, wilderness journey - I believe that they hiked into the range, they were going to try the NW summit of Waddington (which they achieved the next day), then descend to the Dais Glacier, walk out that way, and somewhere a canoe was waiting for them...<br />
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I spent the afternoon of the 12th resting and acclimatizing at the Waddington-Combatant Col, and studying the north side of Waddington. My prime goal was the Flavelle-Lane route, but I was also considering the Rowat-Richards route (AKA the "Kiwi Route"), the Angel Couloir and the Angel Glacier as less-intimidating options. I left my tent at 6am on the 13th, and not until after walking for 10 minutes towards the base of Waddington's north face did I make a final decision to climb the Flavelle-Lane route. The first portion of the Flavelle-Lane route climbs sustained AI3 runnels/gullies, before opening into a more broad ice couloir. Although Serl's seriousness rating of TD+ feels accurate, the description that the lower portion is 55-degrees and the upper portion less-steep is definitely not accurate! The lower portion of the route had many sections of ice to 75-degrees, and averaged at least 60 degrees. The upper portion of the route kicked back to about 55 or 60 degrees. The lower portion of the route is serac-threatened (in fact, the upper part is as well, but to a lesser degree), so even on merely 60-degree blue ice I was quite stressed, trying to move as fast as possible while still making sure every placement was solid. The original Flavelle-Lane route veered right at the top to climb a few pitches of rock and then continue to the NW summit. I really wanted to reach the main summit, so I veered left instead.<br />
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At 10:15am, four hours after crossing the bergschrund of the Flavelle-Lane, I joined "The Stroll" (a route which connects the Main Summit and NW Summit), and took a little rest in a bergschrund there, relieved to be above the seracs, tired from trying to move so quickly, and a bit concerned that it had started to snow. Soon afterwards I traversed to below the summit tower and started up the standard chimney route. Unfortunately, by now the snowfall had changed to rain, and the wind was picking up as well. By the time I reached "The Notch" between the main summit and The Tooth, it was extremely windy and raining harder. The climbing from The Notch up to the summit was by no means easy for free-soloing, and the weather was getting worse by the minute. Nonetheless, sometimes I am stubborn, and I kept inching my way along. I finally reached the summit at 2pm, very wet, and in strong winds a couple degrees above freezing. The summit chimneys, and the "Wadd Hose" below the notch, had turned into waterfalls by the time I was rappelling them, and when I reached the glacier again, all my clothing and both my boots were 100% saturated with water. My descent, past the NW Summit and down the Angel Glacier, felt fairly epic because of the atrocious weather, more tricky crevasse navigation, and the fact that if I had stopped for long I would have surely gotten hypothermic. I finally reached my tent at 7pm, 13 hours after departing, and crawled in for a rough, stormy night. Because my clothing was completely soaked (and thus, despite stripping off almost all my clothing, soon my sleeping bag was too), I was too cold to sleep all night, and simply re-warmed a nalgene of hot water once every 40 minutes or so.<br />
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I believe the Flavelle-Lane route had been soloed once before, in 2004, by German super-badass Frank Jourdan, during his second Canadian blitzkrieg (the first was in 1994), but I don't know if he continued to the main summit or the northwest summit.<br />
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At 7am on the 14th the sun finally hit my tent and I was finally warm enough to fall asleep, and passed out until 11am. When I finally got up I spent a long time trying to dry out my gear, and thus didn't leave camp until 2pm. In windy and partly-cloudy conditions, I ambled up the west slopes and northwest ridge of Mt. Combatant to the northwest summit, then descended to the notch between the two summits, and up to the main summit. I down-climbed and rappelled off Abalokov anchors to Chaos Col (Combatant-Tiedemann Col), and settled in for my third night in a bergschrund at the base of Combatant. On the morning of the 15th the forecasted good weather had returned, and I climbed Mt. Tiedemann via the West Face. The descent down the east ridge of Tiedemann was long and tedious, as I had remembered from 2004, with one section of unbelievably loose rock. I didn't start up the West Ridge of Mt. Asperity until well in the afternoon, but it went well. I am generally more comfortable soloing on ice than on rock, particularly with a heavy pack, so I veered from the West Ridge proper onto the upper northwest face. The descent down the northeast face of Asperity was mostly on Abalokov anchors, with some down-climbing, and I was soon settled into my fourth bivouac at the Asperity-Serra 5 Col.<br />
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On the 16th I started up Serra 5, and climbed to the base of the first steep rock pitches before hesitating. I had essentially "blown my Wadd," psychologically speaking, during my epic day on Waddington. Finding the motivation to climb Combatant, Tiedemann and Asperity had been easy, because I absolutely did not want to reverse the icefall below the Waddington-Combatant Col, and thus traversing these peaks was my best escape route. Now, at the Asperity-Serra 5 Col I had my first reasonable descent option to the lower Tiedemann Glacier, and the temptation to return to safety was greater than my desire to throw myself at Serra 5. I had unfortunately carried a pair of rock shoes, a chalkbag, and extra hardware all this way just to try Serra 5, but I suppose that is training weight! My decision to bail from Serra 5 can be explained by a quote of Frank Jourdan's, from the excellent report of his 2004 blitzkrieg:<br />
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"The stress of being alone in a lot of scary situations had blown my mind, and I decided to not go: I was not motivated or calm enough any more. I started the car, anxious to get back to life, to my friends, to share my beloved red wine..."<br />
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After bailing on Serra 5 I returned to my camp at the Asperity-Serra 5 col and relaxed until late afternoon. At 4:30pm I decided the southeast face of Asperity had been in the shade long enough to make rockfall unlikely, and I started down Carl's Couloir. The descent down Carl's Couloir was much easier and much less steep than I had expected - in fact it would make a great ski run, and not even qualify as "extreme skiing." I made 3 rappels, all over bergshrunds, and reached the lower Tiedemann Glacier a bit before nightfall. I trudged up to the Plummer Hut by headlamp, and at 11pm finished an excellent 5-day solo odyssey. Although some of the solos I have done were significantly harder technically, I think this was one of my best solo climbs because of its remote, committing nature, and also because of the psychological stamina required on a five-day solo, as opposed to just a single-push solo.<br />
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On the 16th Scott and I toured around the Upper Tellot Glacier a bit, and then in the evening we flew out to Bluff Lake and started the long drive home. Thanks Scott and Marina for letting me join in on a great trip!<br />
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Mark Bunker and myself on the summit of Serra 1 in 2004, displaying the 11 summits we had collected during the second ascent of the "Waddington Traverse." One of the culminating climbs of a fantastic climbing partnership. Photo by Mark Bunker:<br />
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Marina, Scott and myself on the night of the 11th, psyched to have arrived in the Waddington Range. Photo by Scott Pick:<br />
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Starting my journey on the morning of the 12th, with the Munday Peaks behind. Photo by Scott Pick:<br />
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The state of the upper Tiedemann Glacier leading up to Waddington-Combatant Col, taken from the flight into the Plummer Hut. This photo doesn't show how broken up it really was!<br />
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Looking down the Tiedemann Glacier from half-way up to the Waddington-Combatant Col, with Bravo Peak on the right:<br />
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The last few crevasses to deal with, almost up to the Waddington-Combatant Col:<br />
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The Spaniards at Waddington-Combatant Col, mid-way through a big adventure:<br />
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Home, sweet home at the Waddington-Combatant Col:<br />
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Looking up at the southwest side of Combatant from the Waddington-Combatant Col:<br />
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Looking up the start of the Flavelle-Lane route on the north face of Waddington:<br />
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Looking up low on the Flavelle-Lane:<br />
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Looking down from low on the Flavelle-Lane:<br />
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Part-way up the Flavelle-Lane, where the angle starts to kick back to 60-degrees, and the worst serac hazard is nearly done:<br />
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Self-portrait about half-way up the Flavelle-Lane:<br />
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Looking down from high on the Flavelle-Lane, with the Waddington-Combatant Col below. The original finish veered right onto the rocky buttress:<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirIDpLIOaeSmbOm7qSd3iHbCB0uby6agfWSVAZxgTaM5TzfTqtoo2XtFkHpmlGI8JZ7tSbCY4qKeURgHlC9DLbuEyK7DfaojowzLJITr4YWd-AFKmqgzKyLvJUo8-BR_Al_1NvYl6iqVU/s1600/15.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="300" width="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirIDpLIOaeSmbOm7qSd3iHbCB0uby6agfWSVAZxgTaM5TzfTqtoo2XtFkHpmlGI8JZ7tSbCY4qKeURgHlC9DLbuEyK7DfaojowzLJITr4YWd-AFKmqgzKyLvJUo8-BR_Al_1NvYl6iqVU/s400/15.jpg" /></a></div><br />
High on the Flavelle-Lane, with the lower Tiedemann Glacier below:<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEislZuezprPNRa6QZv-zjJWpWLnEEIt-EoU_uoY5FYrkvZluiZl0cy53fDSVTDApGTErvJnEO6xBtm6gipIpqEYdcOfxXV7yYhZSVQCmXqznNXKd0CFuEyyltuT6GBGrL3iePRD9-9NhbI/s1600/16.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="400" width="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEislZuezprPNRa6QZv-zjJWpWLnEEIt-EoU_uoY5FYrkvZluiZl0cy53fDSVTDApGTErvJnEO6xBtm6gipIpqEYdcOfxXV7yYhZSVQCmXqznNXKd0CFuEyyltuT6GBGrL3iePRD9-9NhbI/s400/16.jpg" /></a></div><br />
Looking over towards Combatant from high on the Flavelle-Lane, with the storm clouds building:<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjugBo7XLnwtoXn2p3aRluir8uJeijsGs6MBzhCvz7cMQ9EONDfXifusIq3Kf_NXv7s90zLyisPkRawO1aX42AOwy-GWO6WSuRYBAiB0ysJ0QEd48ECC5otfROfljoc8VvPoD48qGScxV4/s1600/17.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="300" width="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjugBo7XLnwtoXn2p3aRluir8uJeijsGs6MBzhCvz7cMQ9EONDfXifusIq3Kf_NXv7s90zLyisPkRawO1aX42AOwy-GWO6WSuRYBAiB0ysJ0QEd48ECC5otfROfljoc8VvPoD48qGScxV4/s400/17.jpg" /></a></div><br />
Looking down the Tiedemann from near the top of the Flavelle-Lane:<br />
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View of the summit tower from where I joined "the Stroll:"<br />
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Self-portrait during my rest in a bergschrund:<br />
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Looking up the "Wadd Hose" while traversing to the start of the summit chimneys:<br />
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Looking up the start of the normal route up the summit tower:<br />
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A short gully leading up to "the Notch:"<br />
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A short bit of steep ice in the summit chimneys, with someone's old stuck rappel rope on the side:<br />
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More ice in the summit chimneys, and a little slot that I could just barely squeeze through:<br />
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Looking up a harder bit in the upper summit chimneys:<br />
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Self-portrait at the last hard bit in the summit chimneys:<br />
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Nearing the top now:<br />
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The summit of Waddington, in nasty weather:<br />
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Trying to dry-out my gear, about midday on the 14th:<br />
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Looking back at the north face of Waddington, from a little ways up the west slopes of Combatant:<br />
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Nearing the top of the northwest summit of Combatant:<br />
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Looking onward at the main summit of Combatant (on the right) and the west face of Tiedemann (on the left):<br />
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Looking back at Waddington from the northwest summit of Combatant:<br />
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Summit #2 on the northwest summit of Combatant, with the main summit behind:<br />
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The ridge leading up to the main summit of Combatant, which is really nice class 3-4 climbing on mixed terrain, with excellent rock:<br />
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Summit #3 on the main summit of Combatant:<br />
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Looking at at the next morning's objective, the west face of Tiedemann, from my bivy at Chaos Col:<br />
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Self-portrait half-way up the west face of Tiedemann:<br />
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A nice ice gully and excellent granite, near the top of the west face of Tiedemann:<br />
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Summit #4 on top of Mt. Tiedemann, with Waddington behind:<br />
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Looking east when almost finished with the descent of Tiedemann. The next objective, Mt. Asperity, is the highest peak in the photo:<br />
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The only bit of self-belaying I did - A quick back-loop on the northwest side of Asperity, because the ice sheet I was traversing was detached from the rock. Mt. Tiedemann behind:<br />
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Summit #5 on top of Mt. Asperity:<br />
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Ice-cliff rappelling down the northeast face of Asperity:<br />
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Bivy at the Asperity-Serra 5 col:<br />
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A delicious dinner upon return to the Plummer Hut. Photo by Scott Pick:<br />
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Colinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13983021751924748485noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4333132788232790338.post-4965913519872835952012-08-10T12:03:00.000-07:002012-08-10T12:03:27.599-07:00West Coast Mountains Mini-Road-TripMy friend and climbing partner, Dylan Johnson, recently became a father, and thus has been very busy at home. Nonetheless, on July 26 he made the epic drive from his new home in Ventura, CA, back up to Seattle, and the next day we took off on an 11-day mini road-trip - the longest climbing trip he's been on since the birth of his daughter, Emma. We loaded up his Toyota Matrix with a variety of climbing gear to keep our options open, and headed north, with our only set plan to stay flexible and check weather forecasts often.<br />
<br />
On I-5 about an hour north of Seattle, we decided to make our first stop in the North Cascades, at the Hozomeen Peaks. The North and South Peaks of Hozomeen are just barely inside the US, but the best access is from the Canadian side. I've wondered about Hozomeen for years, in fact ever since reading the "Battle for Hozomeen" chapter in Fred Beckey's "Challenge of the North Cascades" when I was fourteen years old. Neither Dylan nor I had ever been to Hozomeen, but we set our sights on the much-discussed and unclimbed "Zorro Face" (west face) of North Hozomeen.<br />
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On the evening of the 27th we rolled into Ross Lake Campground (which has got to be the most relaxed Canada-US border crossing that you can drive a car through) and passed out. The next morning we packed up, and made the long, but bushwack-free approach to North Hozomeen. Because other teams had been turned back trying to approach the Zorro Face directly, we planned a semi-technical descending approach from a notch on the north ridge, and bivied just a little ways below the ridge.<br />
<br />
We woke up early on the 29th, dropped down from the north ridge notch, and down-climbed a long 3rd-class gully to reach the base of the Zorro face (note to future attempts - I am confident this is the best approach). However, as we slowly became familiar with the rock on our descending approach, and the face came fully into view, we both decided that our strategy/equipment/ability was no match for this behemoth! The face is very large (I would estimate 800 meters), much steeper than we expected (the left side is even overhanging for large areas), the rock is friable, and most importantly, there are almost no protection cracks, even for thin pitons. We bailed back up our approach gully, and climbed the normal 4th-class route up the north side of North Hozomeen.<br />
<br />
The north face of South Hozomeen is also a very, very impressive and steep face. I think that the north face of South Hozomeen and the west face of North Hozomeen are perhaps the two most difficult walls in the lower-48. A bolt-free ascent of either will probably require very talented and very bold climbers. The significance of an ascent with bolts will all depend on how many are placed.<br />
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After our Hozomeen foray, we continued north and east to a parking-lot bivy at Rogers Pass, and on the 31st we climbed the mighty Mt. Sir Donald by the classic NW Arete. I thought this was a fantastic climb, on a majestic peak, and the quartzite rock was intriguing and enjoyable. The climbing is technically quite easy (4th class), but the route is impressively long, rising about 800 meters in one uninterrupted soaring ridge.<br />
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The day after climbing Sir Donald the weather was foul, so we drove further east and spent the afternoon climbing at the "Back of the Lake" in Lake Louise. Neither of us had ever been to the Back of the Lake before, and we both thought it was an amazing crag, with traditionally-protected climbs that feel more like overhanging sport routes.<br />
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On August 2nd, with still marginal weather, we made the approach into the Bugaboos. The following day we climbed Snowpatch Spire via "Surf's Up," Pigeon Spire via the West Ridge, and settled into a higher bivouac at the Pigeon-Howser col. On August 4th we climbed North Howser Tower via "All Along the Watchtower." I had climbed the route in 2004 with my friend Mark Westman, but it is definitely a route worthy of doing more than once! When Mark and I climbed it we took étriers and jumars, and short-fixed the upper dihedral, so it was fun this time to just take a normal free climbing rack and just pull on gear here and there. Dylan managed to free-climb everything up to the crux pitch high on the route.<br />
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On the 5th we hiked out from the Bugaboos, and drove southwest to the Kootenays, and up to the Valhallas. Neither Dylan nor I had ever been in the Kootenay region, and I thought it was a pretty enchanting place. On August 6th we climbed the absolutely outstanding South Ridge of Mt. Gimli, and then made the drive home to Seattle (gawking at the limestone sport-climbing ciffs of China Bend along the way).<br />
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Our mini road-trip did not include much hard, serious climbing, but except for Hozomeen, all of the climbing we did was absolutely world-class. It is amazing how many awesome nooks of climbing are tucked away in little-known parts of BC and Washington. Confirmation yet again that I wouldn't live anywhere else in North America!<br />
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The Hozomeen Peaks from the approach on the Hozomeen Ridge Trail. South Hozomeen is on the left, with its north face facing the camera, and North Hozomeen is on the right, with the top of its west face (aka Zorro Face) visible on the right skyline. Photo by Dylan:<br />
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Colin getting excited at the border crossing on the approach to Hozomeen. Photo by Dylan:<br />
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The morning that we approached the Zorro Face, all of the North Cascades were filled by a sea of low clouds. Hozomeen offers awesome views of the Mox Peaks and the Pickets. Here are the north sides of the Southern Pickets. The shadow in the foreground is the shadow of South Hozomeen. Photo by Dylan:<br />
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Looking up at the scary Zorro Face, from the base. Photo by Dylan:<br />
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Heading up the standard route on the north side of North Hozomeen:<br />
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Colin scrambling up 4th-class rock on North Hozomeen. Photo by Dylan:<br />
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Dylan nearing the top of North Hozomeen, with a view towards the west. In the center of the horizon, just a bit to the right of Mt. Baker, is the impressive east face of SE Mox Peak, climbed in 2005 by Mike Layton and Erik Wolfe:<br />
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Dylan on top of North Hozomeen, looking at the north face of South Hozomeen:<br />
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On the approach to Sir Donald, we waited out a thunderstorm under a boulder:<br />
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Colin getting stoked at the base of the NW Arete of Sir Donald. Photo by Dylan:<br />
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Colin climbing on the NW Arete of Sir Donald. Photo by Dylan:<br />
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Colin higher up on the NW Arete of Sir Donald. Fortunately the rain held off until we were descending. Photo by Dylan:<br />
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On the summit of the mighty Mt. Sir Donald!<br />
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The impressive north face of Mt. MacDonald, just above the Roger's Pass highway. For years of driving past, I had dismissed it as choss, but after experiencing the excellent quartzite on nearby Sir Donald, this face is one that I would really like to return to:<br />
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In the Bugaboos, Colin posing like a douchebag on "Surf's Up." Photo by Dylan:<br />
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Harnessing the power on the summit of Snowpatch Spire. Photo by Dylan:<br />
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Dylan climbing the West Ridge of Pigeon Spire, with the Howser Towers behind:<br />
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Colin on the West Ridge of Pigeon Spire. Photo by Dylan:<br />
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Getting really stoked now! Photo by Dylan:<br />
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On the summit of Pigeon Spire. Photo by Dylan:<br />
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An excellent pitch low on "All Along the Watchtower." Having done the route 8 years earlier did not seem to help me much on the route-finding, and I had to correct a few errors on this lower portion of the route:<br />
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About a third of the way up North Howser. My lead block was to the base of the fantastic upper dihedral. Photo by Dylan:<br />
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Dylan following a super-fun hand-crack pitch on the lower half of Watchtower:<br />
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Dylan following on the lower portion of Watchtower:<br />
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Dylan coming up a pitch about half-way up Watchtower:<br />
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Starting up the last pitch of my lead-block, to the base of the upper dihedral. Photo by Dylan:<br />
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Dylan styling the upper dihedral:<br />
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Colin following in the upper dihedral. Photo by Dylan:<br />
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Dylan still free-climbing:<br />
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Dylan free-climbing one more pitch in the awesome dihedral:<br />
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Colin following in the upper dihedral. Photo by Dylan:<br />
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Dylan finally resorting to aid on the crux pitch, which was a bit wet as usual:<br />
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Colin belaying the crux pitch. Photo by Dylan:<br />
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Dylan leading in last light, near the top of the dihedral:<br />
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Colin belaying near the top of the dihedral. Photo by Dylan:<br />
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Feeling quite dehydrated on the summit of North Howser:<br />
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Dylan below the fantastic South Ridge (right skyline) of Mt. Gimli. It had some of the most solid, well-featured alpine rock I have ever climbed on, and I will be back to Mt. Gimli for sure!<br />
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Dylan starting up the South Ridge of Gimli:<br />
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On the summit of Mt. Gimli. Photo by Dylan:<br />
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Mt. Gimli from back at the trailhead. The west face (left side) looks like it holds a bunch of excellent routes. Photo by Dylan:<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEha3rzzOXYHxmqpFVXbZEeuAAa03o-3exgjw_mUsPLKzx4KTryMx-zliBzOsENQ0phSYfQoh_Lbg-eb2_QNmc0qFKZ45Ygn7O1ZwzpOhiFtpYoEAalWIUQ19x3tcLR1x1eeP6QM9g0yk8A/s1600/41.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="300" width="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEha3rzzOXYHxmqpFVXbZEeuAAa03o-3exgjw_mUsPLKzx4KTryMx-zliBzOsENQ0phSYfQoh_Lbg-eb2_QNmc0qFKZ45Ygn7O1ZwzpOhiFtpYoEAalWIUQ19x3tcLR1x1eeP6QM9g0yk8A/s400/41.jpg" /></a></div><br />Colinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13983021751924748485noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4333132788232790338.post-24006562110952855562012-07-12T16:18:00.000-07:002012-07-13T08:25:33.631-07:00Solo Attempt on North Buttress of Begguya<br>
I have just recently returned to Seattle/Squamish from a long trip in the Central Alaska Range. This year I ended up spending 55 days living on the Kahiltna glacier system. Although a lot of time generally makes your odds of success better, it is obviously no guarantee, as this year the only climbs I was successful on were the East Ridge of Mt. Francis and the West Buttress of Denali. I did however make one good attempt at soloing the north buttress of Begguya, and although I wasn't quite able to pull it off, it was a good effort that I am proud of.
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I flew into Kahiltna basecamp on May 6, and spent the first portion of the trip climbing by myself. My original plan was to try to solo the Bibler-Klewin route, which, from a previous attempt on the route, I knew I would want to do mostly with a rope. I took three day-trips onto the lower pitches of the Bibler-Klewin to practice my self-belaying techniques and hopefully gain some efficiency. However, self-belaying, rappelling, and jumaring on every pitch turned out to be so slow and tedious that it killed my psyche.
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I decided to change tactics, and I turned my attention instead to a line on the right side of the buttress that looked to be the line of least resistance. Actually, the easiest route to the top of the north buttress is the first one that was climbed: the 1980 Björnberg-Ireland. However, the beginning of the Björnberg-Ireland is extremely threatened from serac-fall, so I chose an alternate line that would join the Björnberg-Ireland after the second ice band. I planned to climb through the second rock band on Deprivation, and for the first rock band I spied a passage on the very right edge of the buttress that I believe hadn't been climbed before. I figured that I could safely free-solo the vast majority of this route, so I could pare my equipment down to a bare minimum: an 80m 7.0mm rope, 4 ice screws, 6 pitons, 4 stoppers, and a few slings. I had already descended the buttress twice before via the Bibler-Klewin route, so I knew that I could rappel the entire way solely from v-threads. I brought two v-thread tools, since otherwise dropping one would be a catastrophic mistake.
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As is usual in Alaska, the weather gods toyed with me, and I hoped to try several times before I eventually did. On May 24th I skied up to the base of the north buttress to cache my climbing gear. On May 25th I was all packed and ready to go, but the forecast was very pessimistic. I skied up to the base of the north buttress and retrieved the gear that I had left the day before. In the early evening it started dumping snow again. I had a climbing partner flying in to join me in a couple days, so I completely unpacked, finally resigned to the idea that I wouldn't get to try to solo Begguya at all. At 11pm the skies suddenly cleared, and I re-packed everything. I tried unsuccessfully to sleep for a couple hours, and then skied up to the north buttress again, early on the morning of the 26th.
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I crossed the bergschrund at 6:15am, and started weaving my way up the line I had spotted on the bottom right margin of the north buttress. The route used a bunch of diagonal snow ramps to connect moderate climbing. I climbed a couple sections of AI4, but it was otherwise mostly steep, exposed snow climbing. The exit pitch of the first rockband proved to be the most difficult part, and I used a makeshift self-belay to protect this short step of what felt to be roughly M4. Immediately afterwards, I used a back-loop (a rudimentary form of self-belay) to protect an exposed ice traverse onto the first iceband.
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I climbed diagonally up and left across the first iceband to join Deprivation, and followed Deprivation through the second rockband on a straightforward ice ramp, with one section of AI4. Above the second rockband I essentially joined the Björnberg-Ireland route, but I actually took a line further above and to the left for quite a ways, partly to reduce potential serac hazard, and also to avoid any bergshcrund issues on the hanging glacier that the Björnberg-Ireland briefly joins. On this rightward traverse I again used a backloop on one particularly exposed traverse.
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Before joining the massive gully that defines the upper portion of the Björnberg-Ireland, I stopped to melt snow and take a brief rest. Even though I had a long ways to go I was already very tired - not only did my route involve a lot of time-consuming traverses, but I always exert a lot more energy when free-soloing, because I drive my picks deeper into the ice and my ice tool shafts deeper into the snow. After my rest stop I started up a direct entrance I had spied to the massive gully. This turned out to be a bit harder than it had looked from far away, and I ended up making one more back-loop on a pitch of roughly AI4 to gain the massive gully itself.
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The upper gully of the Björnberg-Ireland seemed interminable, and alternated between 60 degree snow and 60 degree brittle ice. The final 30 meters to the ridgecrest required digging a trench and then tunneling through the cornice. I finally popped out from the cornice at 9:25pm (15 hours and 10 minutes after crossing the bergschrund), and just below me on the east side of the ridge I was quite surpised to see the only other climbers on Begguya! A team of four Korean climbers had started up the Bibler-Klewin a few days beforehand, and now they were making a bivouac here on the ridge after returning from the summit.
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I hung out at the top of the buttress for a few hours, chatting with the Koreans and melting some snow. At around 2am I finally started up the upper Northeast Ridge, leaving almost all my equipment at the top of the buttress. The tracks from the Koreans had unfortunately mostly blown in with snow, but they were still better than nothing. I was extremely exhausted, however, and progressed slowly. I hadn't been higher than 10,000 ft. previously on the trip, and now the altitude, combined with all the physical exertion up to that point, was really draining me. I even felt a bit dizzy and that my balance was off - I realized I was walking with the same clumsiness that I have witnessed in West Buttress clients near the top of Denali.
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On the upper Northeast Ridge of Begguya there is a small plateau about 100m below the summit. In 2009, while attempting the Bibler-Klewin route, Bjørn-Eivind Årtun and I had been forced to descend from the downhill edge of this plateau by a violent storm. This time I made it across the plateau, but then sat down in the snow and stared up at the final 100m summit pyramid. I felt about as exhausted as I ever have, and I was anxious about my descent - I would have to reverse my steps to the top of the buttress (including down-soloing a short step of AI3), and then rappel 4,000 ft. of steep terrain by myself. The final summit pyramid certainly didn't look difficult, but it wasn't walking either, with some mandatory climbing on 60-degree ice. I finally came to the decision that I had already pushed myself too far - that I shouldn't be clumsy while alone high on Begguya - and that I needed to begin my descent without exhausting myself any further. I think that I probably could've continued to the summit of Begguya safely if I had tried, and in hindsight it is hard not to wish that I had, but it was simply starting to feel too reckless. Instead I started down-climbing to the top of the north buttress.
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When I got back to the top of the north buttress I discovered that the Koreans were still there. I had originally been adamant about descending on my own, because I don't think a solo is a truly a solo if descending with others. But at that point I already knew I had failed in my objective, so I chose the easy way out, and rappelled the Bibler-Klewin route with the Koreans. The chore of pulling rappel ropes was of course nothing compared to the stress that making about 50 solo rappels would have involved. Only one of the four Korean climbers spoke much English, and on the descent it was interesting to compare their methods and techniques to those that I'm accustomed to.
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When I got back to Kahiltna basecamp, thirty-some hours after departing, my friend Nick Elson had arrived from Squamish. We took a rest and organization day, and then started up the west buttress of Denali, where we would spend the next few weeks acclimatizing. In the end, for various reasons, we never ended up climbing anything other than the west buttress itself, but so it goes sometimes... c'est la vie!
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I have now reached the top of Begguya's north buttress four times by four different routes, and despite my best efforts have only managed to reach the summit of Begguya on one of those four occasions. This ratio confirms to me what I already knew after my first experience on the north buttress - the crux of any climb on the north buttress of Begguya is the upper third, from the "cornice bivy" to the summit.
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This year (at least as of the start of July, and therefore likely the whole year) there were only two ascents of Begguya, both via the north buttress, and both by Korean teams. Last year (2011) Begguya saw only one ascent by the north buttress, also by Koreans, so for the past two years the only ascents of Begguya by the north buttress were all by Korean climbers! And while they typically have climbed in larger teams than is typical for European or North American climbers (in teams of three or four climbers, rather than two), all their ascents were done in clean, alpine style, and at a normal pace.
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The 2011 ascent of the Bibler-Klewin was made by Sukmun Choi, Jongil Park and Heeyong Park.
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The first Korean team in 2012 climbed Deprivation, with a new variation start. The team was composed of Sukmun Choi, Sung wook Moon and Jongneung An (making Sukmun Choi one of very few people who have climbed Begguya via the north buttress two times). They had originally planned to climb a new line through the first iceband, and made an attempt on the line, but were turned back when a big section of ice broke off.
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The second Korean team in 2012 (with whom I rappelled) climbed the Bibler-Klewin route, and had an average team age of 49 years. The team was composed of Seung kwong Chung, Jongkwan Park, Gyutaek Jo, and Jongil Park (making Jongil Park one of very few people who have climbed Begguya via the north buttress two times, and certainly the only person who has climbed the Bibler-Klewin route twice!).
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Aside from my solo attempt, there were other notable attempts on the north buttress this year as well. Slovenian climbers Blaz Navrsnik and Matjaz Ducic made a single-push attempt on the Bibler-Klewin to 600 meters below the summit (retreat from the "cornice bivy").
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Americans Kyle Dempster and Justin Griffith made a single-push attempt on the Wall of Shadows, and Justin broke one of his two monopoints low on the route. Kyle led every pitch from there to the third iceband (and Justin followed on one frontpoint!), from where they retreated. Several days later, Kyle and Justin went back on the north buttress for a single-push attempt on the French route (Grison-Tedeschi). They climbed to the "cornice bivy," but then were forced to retreat because they accidentally dropped their stove.
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Not on Begguya, but also of note while I was in the central Alaska Range - Britons Nick Bullock and Andy Houseman made the sixth ascent of the Slovak Route on Denali.
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I know of two other solo attempts on Begguya's north buttress prior to mine. Around 1997 Steve House made a solo attempt on the Bibler-Klewin. He free-soloed to the base of the Prow via the Aubrey-Stump variation start, and then began rope soloing. He turned around at the start of Tamara's Traverse because his self-belay system did not seem trustworthy on his iced-up, skinny rope. In 1999 Andy Parkin made two solo attempts on the north buttress, climbing through the first rockband somewhere to the right of Deprivation, and then climbing through the second rockband on the Björnberg-Ireland. On his first attempt he made it through the second rockband, and on his second attempt he was thwarted at the base of the second rockband by an incoming storm.
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A panorama of the north face of Begguya, from the summit of Mt. Francis:
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Routes and attempts on the north buttress of Begguya, as of 2012:
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Begguya from the northwest (taken from high on Sultana) at sunset, 2010:
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Leaving my skis at the base of the north buttress, just before starting my solo attempt:
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Looking up the start of the line I took through the first rockband:
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A snow ramp traversing up and left:
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My tracks coming back right on the "Traverse of the Dogs":
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Re-fueling near the top of the first rockband:
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Looking up the exit from the first rockband, which felt roughly like M4:
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Looking back down the exit from the first rockband:
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Traversing onto the first iceband:
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Looking up the ice ramp of "Deprivation," at the start of the second rock band:
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The exit I took out of the second rock band, which proved to be a bit steeper than it looked from below, and felt to be about AI4:
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Looking down on the second iceband while traversing to the Björnberg-Ireland:
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Looking up and across while traversing to the Björnberg-Ireland:
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Feeling fatigued and taking a short brew stop before joining the Björnberg-Ireland:
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Looking up the direct entrance to the Björnberg-Ireland:
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Looking down upon joining the massive gully that comprises the upper portion of the Björnberg-Ireland:
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Looking down from high in the gully, almost to the ridge-crest:
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Evening light and clouds upon reaching the ridge-crest atop the north buttress:
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Surprised to find four Koreans below me as soon as I emerged from my cornice tunnel:
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Getting extremely tired while climbing the upper Northeast Ridge, with Denali behind:
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The view over towards Sultana from high on the Northeast Ridge:
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Looking up the final 100m-high summit pyramid, and the mandatory 60-degree blue ice that it would require:
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Decision to bail:
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My Korean rappel-mates just before we began descending the north buttress:
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Resting in base camp the day after returning from my solo attempt, and displaying the minimalist rack that I took on the north buttress. Photo by Nick Elson:
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Feeling hungry at the 11,000ft. camp while working our way up Denali. Photo by Nick Elson:
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Skiing in the "rescue gully" about the 14,000ft. camp on Denali. Photo by Nick Elson:
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Descending the West Buttress below the 17,000ft. camp during an acclimatization venture. Photo by Nick Elson:
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Nick above the 17,000ft. camp during another acclimatization venture:
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Forced to cook in the vestibule during stormy weather:
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Slogging above Denali Pass on the West Buttress. Photo by Nick Elson:
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On the summit of Denali for my twelfth time, and Nick's second. Photo by Nick Elson:
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Starting down Denali's summit ridge. Photo by Nick Elson:
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Nick acclimatizing more on the Upper West Rib:
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Britons Andy Houseman (left) and Nick Bullock (right) would soon make the sixth ascent of Denali's Slovak Route, but first, they kindly offered us a quesadilla:
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Andy lubing his cams with our olive oil:
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The state of the lower "206 Ramp" (AKA "Seattle '72 Ramp," AKA "Wickwire '72 Ramp") as of late June 2012. Photo by Nick Elson:
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A lenticular on Sultana at sunset. Photo by Nick Elson:
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Confined to the tent during stormy weather on roughly day 50 of the trip:
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinzoDaBd5_l4LbFvdKoyo5P7As2Kq5Ujrv_nLWCHt1mmnN07Wb04HnLECRriv8Q5OFf4ZGCqZq771nkJ-7l-r8mgb13SbSaB8CtfOZYshZLE_dPZ0LLtyzjaTRVRtJ1jAMOhMPQzWtDLw/s1600/41.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left:1em; margin-right:1em"><img border="0" height="300" width="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinzoDaBd5_l4LbFvdKoyo5P7As2Kq5Ujrv_nLWCHt1mmnN07Wb04HnLECRriv8Q5OFf4ZGCqZq771nkJ-7l-r8mgb13SbSaB8CtfOZYshZLE_dPZ0LLtyzjaTRVRtJ1jAMOhMPQzWtDLw/s400/41.jpg" /></a></div>Colinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13983021751924748485noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4333132788232790338.post-26713505926272429892012-02-19T15:32:00.000-08:002012-02-19T16:27:55.930-08:00Farewell Bjørn-EivindA week and a half ago I woke up to see a missed call from a Norwegian telephone number that I didn't recognize. Somehow I felt that there had been an accident. I went to my computer, and sure enough, my friend Nils Nielsen had sent me an e-mail when I hadn't answered my phone: Stein-Ivar Gravdal and my good friend Bjørn-Eivind Årtun had been killed while climbing on Kjerag (the same cliff where they had established a fantastic and futuristic big-wall ice climb a couple years ago).<br /><br />Unfortunately, this isn't nearly the first time I have lost a friend and climbing partner to the mountains. As I've experienced before, I have a hard time consciously accepting that Bjørn is dead - I still somehow expect that I'll see him and climb with him again. I guess that is denial. When I dwell on it, and visualize the scene on Kjerag, and the grief of Bjørn's daughter, Iben, then it hits me hard.<br /><br />I had a very productive and positive climbing partnership with Bjørn, making two great trips together to the Central Alaska Range. Bjørn was a very strong climber technically, and was also extremely fit, thanks in large part to his background in competitive nordic skiing. Bjørn was also the most motivated climbing partner I've ever had. There was no doubt that Bjørn was very inspired by the mountains, and he was as much of a dreamer as any climber I know of. In fact, the biggest difficulty we faced in our partnership was the disconnect between Bjørn's big-dreaming and my more hesitant inclination and more timid goals. I have Bjørn's overwhelming enthusiasm to thank for some absolutely amazing climbing experiences. On both the French Route on Begguya and Dracula on Sultana, it was Bjørn who convinced me to dream big and go for it. Despite his tremendous motivation and skills, Bjørn was a very gentle, polite and kind person, and that was what ultimately made him so special.<br /><br />This past summer I went to the Karakorum with Bjørn, and it ended up being a very short trip. We had a number of things go wrong with our expedition from the start, and I developed a bad feeling about risking our lives there. It was the only time my intuition has ever told me to run away, and I decided that I needed to listen to that intuition, so I threw in the towel when our expedition had only barely started. Bjørn was understandably very disappointed that I bailed after so much preparation, and it wasn't until this past season in Patagonia that I got to see him again, and spend some time repairing our relationship.<br /><br />The end of January was a very crazy time in the Fitz Roy range. I participated in a difficult and futile attempt to rescue Canadian climber Carlyle Norman from Aguja St. Exupery in a storm. Bjørn was one of several other climbers who came up to the Exupery-de l'S col to support the rescue effort, and our brief encounter during the tense frenzy of the rescue effort was our last exchange, except for a brief passing in Niponino the following day. While I was recovering in town from our rescue effort, Bjørn was climbing the west face of the Torre with Chad Kellogg, and then when I went back into the mountains, Bjørn returned to town and flew home straight away.<br /><br />When I heard the news from Nils, I had been home from Patagonia for about a week, and I had been meaning to e-mail Bjørn. I wanted to congratulate him on his climb with Chad. I wanted to simply say hi, since we never got a chance to say goodbye when he left Chalten. I also wanted to tell him how much I appreciated his friendship, apologize again for bailing on him in Pakistan, and tell him that I hoped we would do more trips together at some point. But I was busy with a million tasks after three months away, and I was a couple days too late to ever tell Bjørn those things.<br /><br />The vast majority of the people that surround me in my life are constantly risking their lives in the mountains. Losing friends to the mountains is unfortunately something I have grown accustomed to, and I suppose I should grow to expect. The Seattle climbing community has been hit hard in the past several years. Just a week before Bjørn and Stein-Ivar died, a friend of mine in Chamonix, Felix Hentz, perished in an avalanche skiing off of the Aiguille du Midi. But I've never lost a climbing friend who I had shared as many experiences with as Bjørn.<br /><br />Climbing with Bjørn for the past several years also gave me the great pleasure of getting to know the Norwegian alpine climbing community in general. In a country with a population less than the State of Washington, there is an outstanding group of extremely-motivated, very talented and particularly kind and friendly alpinists. Rolf Bae having died on K2 just a few years ago, the deaths of Bjørn-Eivind and Stein-Ivar are a huge blow to the Norwegian climbing community.<br /><br />Climbing deaths always cause one to ponder our activity and its risks. For me there is no question that I want to climb mountains and that I accept the risks. However, we CAN put an extra piece in the belay, be extra careful with that loose block, and take a different route when that windslab seems questionable. More than anything else though, I think that losing a friend to the mountains reminds me to cherish the people we spend time with during our brief existence. I really wish I had the chance to say goodbye to Bjørn.<br /><br />Farewell, Bjørn-Eivind. Alpinism will miss the great dreams you had, and all of us who knew you will certainly miss you and remember you for a long, long time.<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEtoECkIHbCAg3JPGIdMmfUN2C2A3qCa95c_7w-qa0g0GIVzqrg0swSUjMQ7hMnX9qu9p3J5OHR74tc_lJlqKbkZwRWWKR-_zBEV5dTA0CyCT55LXJOlrivMj4o7IMIAkbReOgY5fDsNU/s1600/01.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 300px; height: 400px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEtoECkIHbCAg3JPGIdMmfUN2C2A3qCa95c_7w-qa0g0GIVzqrg0swSUjMQ7hMnX9qu9p3J5OHR74tc_lJlqKbkZwRWWKR-_zBEV5dTA0CyCT55LXJOlrivMj4o7IMIAkbReOgY5fDsNU/s400/01.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5710994113239808850" /></a><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFR9CKXB9N5s7wUV0be85r5gm7PE3TwsTEexNEI1XxUoxM32ZLSPrVaLTizI8TMltqoW5_3jv5usHZ9qpteZdbkZUrHpjU660xJWq2pZNj3NP4l1q2Uno03PiG3BOcK2NriDiy1oIJVRY/s1600/02.JPG"><img style="display:block; 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This has sparked a large debate within the global climbing community, as to whether it was a wise action, and if Kennedy and Kruk had the right to make it. I would personally love to stay un-involved in this debate, but having climbed in the Fitz Roy range for eight seasons, having descended the southeast ridge of Cerro Torre twice, and having attempted the southeast ridge of Cerro Torre twice by "fair means," I feel it is my obligation to share my thoughts. I will try to break this long-winded essay into separate, more managable subjects, starting with my personal history with Cerro Torre.<br /><br /><br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">MY PERSONAL HISTORY WITH CERRO TORRE:</span><br /><br />I have been dreaming of Cerro Torre since I was twelve years old. I don't remember exactly which photo I saw first, but at that time I was already obsessed with climbing mountains, and I specifically remember being awestruck by photos I saw of this mountain. Cerro Torre became my greatest dream - if there was one goal I wanted to accomplish in my life, it was to climb Cerro Torre. When I was fifteen I tried to convince my cousin Aidan, two years younger and my main climbing partner at the time, that we needed to start training, and go attempt the Compressor Route in two years - when I would be seventeen and him fifteen. By the time I was seventeen I knew I wasn't ready for Cerro Torre, but two years later, in 2003, I finally went to the Fitz Roy range with my friend Bart Paull. We managed to climb three of the easier summits of the Fitz Roy massif, and on our last climbing day, on Aguja de l'S, I finally saw Cerro Torre for the first time. On my second trip to Patagonia, in 2005 with Mark Westman, I managed to climb the rest of the seven "major summits" of the Fitz Roy ridgeline, and I decided that I was finally ready to try Cerro Torre.<br /><br />In 2006 I went to Patagonia with Kelly Cordes, with Cerro Torre as our main goal. At the time my thoughts on the Compressor Route were fairly ambivalent, and we planned to attempt the West Face mostly because it was more suited to our climbing strengths and interests. Although we spent almost our entire trip festering in camp during bad weather, at the last minute a great weather window arrived. We climbed Cerro Torre via a linkup of the "Tiempos Perdidos" route on the left margin of the south face and the Ragni route on the west face (this was the first integral ascent of "Tiempos Perdidos"). The climb was an absolute dream come true - a beautiful, 1,500m line of fantastic ice and mixed terrain, that played perfectly to our strengths as a team, to a summit that I had been obsessing over for ten years.<br /><br />Kelly and I descended Cerro Torre via the southeast ridge, which neither of us had been on before, and my thoughts on the Compressor Route changed dramatically. It is difficult to comprehend the Compressor Route without seeing it in person - both in terms of the enormous quantity of Maestri's bolts, and in terms of the bolt ladders' locations, in close proximity to easily-protectable, easily-climbable terrain. After seeing the Compressor Route first hand, I knew I had no desire to climb it, and since then I have never considered an ascent of the Compressor Route to be an ascent of Cerro Torre - the climber on that route is simply too disconnected from engaging with the mountain itself.<br /><br />The following season, I had the tremendous fortune of being in the right place at the right time, and I got to partner with Rolando Garibotti to make the first ascent of the Torres Traverse. Although I can aspire to greater personal goals since I played a lesser role in the Torres Traverse than Rolo, I don't think I'll ever make an ascent more significant than this first ascent. I think that Rolo is certainly one of the best alpinists of our time, and the best Patagonian alpinist of recent years - seeing him at his peak of performance was an inspiration that continues to drive my progression as a climber today. Rolo and I also descended the southeast ridge of Cerro Torre, and I think that season, 2008, is when I first realized that Maestri's bolt ladders ought to be removed some day.<br /><br />Last year, in February 2011, I made two attempts to climb the southeast ridge of Cerro Torre by "fair means," the first with Zack Smith and the second with Rolo Garibotti and Doerte Pietron. On both attempts we were turned back by poor weather at the base of the ice towers. On both attempts we carried a small bolt kit which we thought we might use on the headwall, rationalizing that adding a few bolts to avoid a few hundred was a sound trade. In hindsight I think it is fortunate that we were turned back by weather - perhaps if we had been able to continue we would have put several bolts in the headwall, which Hayden managed to lead without placing any. It would have been a perfect, short-term example of "stealing a climb from the future."<br /><br />Since I first read about the Compressor Route, my cumulation of personal climbing experience, my knowledge of climbing history, and my cumulation of personal experience in the Fitz Roy range have all increased by huge amounts, and my opinion of the Compressor route has accordingly changed from an ambivalent one to a conviction that Maestri's bolt ladders ought to be removed. Because of the obviously controversial nature of removing Maestri's bolt ladders, I have never had the courage to act on my conviction. Now that Hayden and Jason have done what I believed in but was too cowardly to do, the least I can do is voice my support for them.<br /><br /><br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">IT'S NOT ABOUT HAYDEN AND JASON - IT'S ABOUT CERRO TORRE</span><br /><br />A lot of the discussion surrounding the bolt removal has been focused on who Hayden and Jason are, where they come from, what style they climbed in, if they can be considered "locals" of these mountains, and what their motives were. To me, this discussion is largely irrelevant to the real question: Do Maestri's bolt ladders belong on Cerro Torre, and if they don't, is it right to remove them 40 years after they were installed? For many people I think it is important that the people who removed Maestri's bolt ladders were the same people who first climbed the southeast ridge by fair means, but to me this doesn't matter all that much. I believe that Maestri's bolt ladders do not belong on Cerro Torre, so it really doesn't make any difference to me if they are removed by a Canadian, Argentinean or Cambodian climber, young or old climber. A few years from now we won't care too much about who removed Maestri's bolt ladders, we will care about what state the southeast ridge of Cerro Torre is in.<br /><br /><br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">WHAT ABOUT RESPECT FOR CESARE MAESTRI?</span><br /><br />Several people have been calling for more respect to be paid to Cesare Maestri, who is now in his old age and of failing health. Sorry to be brutally honest, but I simply don't have respect for liars. Maestri told the biggest lie in the history of climbing for the gain of his own reputation. Alpine climbing often relies on the honor system, and unfortunately people like Maestri ruin the system of honesty for all of us. Dishonesty goes beyond the simple game of besting one's competition - consider for a moment that Maestri's drive to be labeled the winner was so great that he didn't even have the decency to tell Toni Egger's mother and sister the true circumstances of how Toni died in the mountains.<br /><br />The fact that Maestri also vengefully showed the world the most heavy-handed climbing style it has ever seen - the epitome of the "murder of the impossible" - doesn't help him gain respect.<br /><br />If Maestri were to come clean in his old age, and tell the world what actually happened during his 1959 Cerro Torre attempt, it would probably require more courage than any climb ever demanded of him. If Maestri could do that, I could respect him.<br /><br /><br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">WHAT ABOUT RESPECT FOR THE STYLE OF THE FIRST ASCENT?</span><br /><br />Many people have been bringing up the very valid point that generally in climbing we respect the style of the first ascent of a route. However, people have been neglecting to keep in mind that Maestri did not make the first ascent of the southeast ridge of Cerro Torre. In climbing mountains, especially such sharp needles as in the Fitz Roy range, a successful ascent ends on the top of the mountain. Not only did Maestri not manage to reach the summit of Cerro Torre, but most evidence suggests that he did not even reach the top of the headwall (Jim Bridwell was the first to note this). Therefore, if you want to ask the first ascensionists their opinions about what should become of the southeast ridge of Cerro Torre, you will have to consult Jim Bridwell and Steve Brewer.<br /><br />Some people will inevitably say that even though Maestri didn't climb Cerro Torre, the style up to his high-point ought to be respected. By that same logic, Maestri would have been violating the style of Fonrouge, Boysen, Burke, Crew and Haston, who climbed half-way up Cerro Torre's southeast ridge in 1968 without placing any bolts. By the time Maestri had reached the same level on the mountain as their highpoint he had already placed hundreds of bolts.<br /><br /><br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">THE COMPRESSOR ROUTE IS AN OUTLIER</span><br /><br />Obviously the concept of "fair means" is very subjective. What one person considers only "necessary" bolts can vary dramatically from what another person considers "necessary" bolts. However, the Compressor Route bolt ladders are far, far, beyond anyone's definition of "necessary" bolts. Even Kurt Albert's routes on nearby Fitz Roy, Aguja Mermoz and Aguja St. Exupery (which have bolted belays every 35 meters or less, and include at least 3 bolts per pitch, immediately next to perfect cracks) are not even in the same realm of over-bolting that the compressor route is. There were some spots on the Compressor Route where a climber clipped to one bolt with a daisy chain could easily touch more than ten other bolts.<br /><br />How did Maestri put up a climb that was so far beyond anything else in terms of bolting? The answer is that he used tactics that have never been used by another climber before or since. A gasoline-powered air compressor is not climbing equipment - it is industrial equipment. With his compressor Maestri could place a bolt more easily than he could place a chock or piton, so of course bolt-ladders up blank rock, even with crack systems immediately nearby, were suddenly a logical solution for him. Maestri explained that he put a single bolt ladder up the entire 5-pitch headwall because they had forgotten the pitons down below. How does one arrive to 5 pitches below Cerro Torre's summit and only there realize that the pitons were left far below? - only with a gasoline-powered air compressor.<br /><br />Many people have been comparing the Compressor Route to The Nose on El Capitan. I think that most of these people must not have seen both routes in person. If the Compressor Route were established with the same bolting discretion as Warren Harding used on The Nose, it would have something like 50 bolts on it. On the other hand, if The Nose were established with the same bolting discretion as Maestri used on the Compressor Route, it would have more than 2,000 bolts on it.<br /><br />I am not extremely anti-bolt. Even Kurt Albert's bolts on the east pillar of Aguja Mermoz (a route which was climbed 90% of the way to the summit without a single bolt, in a single day, before Albert layed siege to it), which go beyond all normal conventions of acceptable bolt use, do not bother me anywhere close to as much as Maestri's bolt ladders on Cerro Torre. I really think it is such a sad shame that the most beautiful mountain on earth (in my opinion), which naturally requires fantastic and difficult climbing to reach its summit, is marred by a via ferrata (And yes, it is a "via ferrata," even if much more difficult than most via ferrata - after all, "via ferrata" means "iron way.").<br /><br /><br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">ADVENTURE VS. TOURISM</span><br /><br />As in any discussion regarding bolts that some people consider unnecessary, some people have asked why Hayden and Jason didn't just leave the bolts in, and future climbers could always opt to simply not clip them. However, as long as the bolts ladders are there, future climbers are denied an adventure, because the mere presence of the bolts changes one's experience dramatically. With the bolt ladders removed, a climber ventures upward with doubts and fears, constantly trying to gauge where the next protection will be and where the route will go, and climbs with commitment - knowing that a poor route-finding choice might place him or her in a bad situation. With the bolt ladders in place, the knowledge that you can immediately end your fear and doubt at any moment removes the commitment completely. With the bolt ladders in place, the climber is denied the experience of moving fearfully into the unknown, and the elation that comes from finding a good crack or good holds for security. With the bolt ladders in place there is no real adventure; choosing to not clip the bolts can only amount to a contrived game. I certainly am much more inspired to go attempt Cerro Torre's headwall now, as a canvas of natural rock, than I ever was before to go play a contrived game of bolt-skipping.<br /><br />Thus, climbing for adventure on the southeast ridge of Cerro Torre, and climbing for tourism on the southeast ridge, are completely at odds with each other. As long as Maestri's bolt ladders are in place, one cannot climb for adventure on the southeast ridge, and with the bolts removed, the tourists are denied their easy route to the summit. It really comes down to a question of which you value more, adventure or tourism? I think we can all agree that the currently-popular phrase "adventure tourism" is oxymoronic.<br /><br />I'm sure that many people will be offended that I refer to the Compressor Route as "tourism," and I'm sorry about that. Ultimately, I think it more important to be honest and potentially offensive than speak tactfully and untruthfully. Quite simply, the Compressor Route is an avenue to "tick" the summit of Cerro Torre without actually engaging the difficulties of the mountain - completely analogous to climbing Everest with supplemental oxygen.<br /><br /><br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">THESE ELITISTS HAVE DENIED MY RIGHT TO EASILY ASCEND THE SOUTHEAST RIDGE OF CERRO TORRE!</span><br /><br />Many people have called Hayden and Jason elitist, because they are forcing future climbers on the southeast ridge to rise to their climbing level, removing the via ferrata which allowed access to climbers who didn't actually posses the skill to climb Cerro Torre's southeast ridge. What then about the poor unfortunate souls who are denied their "right" to summit Torre Egger? What if I went to Patagonia next year and installed a 1,200m bolt ladder up the east pillar of Torre Egger, making it accessible to all the 5.8 climbers who are currently denied their Torre Egger experience?<br /><br />It is ridiculous to attempt to choose an arbitrary difficulty-level that a route should be dumbed-down to. Here's a concept: just leave the difficulty level as it was naturally!<br /><br /><br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">DESTROYING HISTORY</span><br /><br />History is not a physical object. You cannot destroy history unless you are able to burn every book, destroy every hard-drive and erase everyone's memory. At most one can claim that a monument has been destroyed, but history remains unharmed. Maestri showed us the worst example of heavy-handed climbing style that a mountain has ever experienced - it is not something that people will forget. Also, Maestri's air compressor remains lashed to the middle of Cerro Torre's headwall - as long as it remains it will be unmistakable physical evidence of what Maestri did to Cerro Torre (although personally I would rather see it removed).<br /><br /><br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">BETTER LATE THAN NEVER</span><br /><br />Of course it would have been much better if Maestri's bolt ladders were removed the year after their installation rather than 40 years after the fact. If that were the case, no one would call them "history" or "Argentine patrimony." However, I think that when the bolt ladders were installed, most of the world wasn't aware of the extent of the bolting. In addition, Maestri's siege on the southeast ridge used 1,000 meters of fixed rope and nine months, so it took a long time before people realized that the bolt ladders could be easily removed in a single day.<br /><br />For the 40 years that Maestri's bolt ladders were in place, Cerro Torre was a compromised mountain. Very impressive routes that joined the Compressor Route at the headwall, such as Devil's Directissima and Quinque Anni ad Paradisum, will unfortunately always be tarnished by the fact that they ascended the last five pitches of Cerro Torre on a ladder of bolts. This is not the fault of the first ascensionists (Jeglic, Karo, Knez, Podgornik, Kozjek, Fistravek, Salvaterra, Beltrami, and Rossetti - many of the biggest names in Cerro Torre history), because, as I already explained, skipping the bolts immediately in front of you is a contrived game that most alpinists are not interested in. Both of these routes climbed an enormous amount of very difficult climbing to reach the base of the headwall, but the last five pitches of Cerro Torre were stolen from them by Maestri.<br /><br />The removal of Maestri's bolt ladders was inevitable. If it hadn't been done by Hayden and Jason, it would have been done before too long by someone else. There were other climbers in El Chalten this season who had specific plans to remove Maestri's bolt ladders - and no, it wasn't me or Rolo, but some very strong and accomplished alpinists from Europe.<br /><br /><br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">HYPOCRISY OF USING SOME OF MAESTRI'S BOLTS</span><br /><br />Some people have told me that anyone who has ever used Maestri's bolts (such as Garibotti, Cordes and myself rappelling from them) cannot support the removal of the bolts without hypocrisy. I think it is almost exactly the opposite in fact - I think that people who have seen Maestri's bolt ladders in person generally have a much better understanding of their physical context than people who have only read about them or seen photos.<br /><br />Others have criticized Hayden and Jason for using and leaving in place some of Maestri's belay/rappel stations. They did this as a compromise to appease you. If you think that is hypocritical, then feel free to go remove them. There is plentiful natural gear available, and climbing or rappelling the southeast ridge will not be compromised if you remove every last one of Maestri's bolts.<br /><br /><br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">INTEGRITY</span><br /><br />As I said at first, I would personally prefer to stay far away from this controversy. However, I feel that Hayden and Jason have done a great service to the global community of Patagonian alpinists, and it saddens me to see them receive so much criticism for what I consider an altruistic act. Many of the people who agree with the bolt removal are staying quiet simply to stay out of drama (and in fact, some people who have previously expressed their wish for the bolt ladders to be removed, are now back-pedaling in the face of controversy), but I see it as my obligation to speak out in support of them.<br /><br />I'm sure that many people, particularly on internet forums, will criticize me for writing this essay. Please remain civil. Just because you disagree with my opinion doesn't mean you need to hate me or denigrate me personally. I won't criticize you for lamenting the bolt removal. Everyone is entitled to his or her opinion.Colinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13983021751924748485noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4333132788232790338.post-72953341031617173222012-01-24T12:51:00.000-08:002012-01-24T13:39:19.453-08:00Temporada de LocuraThis summer season in El Chalten has been exceptional in many ways, and the past few weeks in particular have been the craziest I've ever experienced in Patagonia.<br /><br />Immediately after Jorge and I climbed Torre Egger, my girlfriend, Sarah Hart, came down for a visit of a couple weeks. She unfortunately came down for the worst weather period, and we spent most of her visit bouldering and sport climbing, but still made it up into the mountains on a couple occasions.<br /><br />On the first day of 2012 Sarah and I went and climbed the normal route on Cerro Solo, with weather better than had been forecasted. Cerro Adela and the Torres on the dawn of 2012:<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCoRjBOjlLlaLEZdcondUPmUdUOuotcyDNeCCGFzDTczLZeLCa9M359F2tomzKdmiZ3k_APP1R5EcGvdSJB1B672smuO328Pz3pyLlL655uwQet3RmudM0SEmoyGI4bkHb2NGiTUHJ65A/s1600/01.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCoRjBOjlLlaLEZdcondUPmUdUOuotcyDNeCCGFzDTczLZeLCa9M359F2tomzKdmiZ3k_APP1R5EcGvdSJB1B672smuO328Pz3pyLlL655uwQet3RmudM0SEmoyGI4bkHb2NGiTUHJ65A/s400/01.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5701306602640680754" /></a><br /><br />Sarah climbing up to access the upper glacier on Cerro Solo, with the Torre Massif and Fitz Roy massif behind:<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqO4E38f8ziBK_t_hgzZdbpmdgl2Op0VHEQfBGGBl66uxrcj8GshXcIzbY6JhpMfJ4Xh1qTp96TmsKPEjo1CLbz9Wc_o85LYP2Ke29NrWyWkpgo5V-5s-Da3QQKv8nzxzh5c51q1lbSyI/s1600/02.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqO4E38f8ziBK_t_hgzZdbpmdgl2Op0VHEQfBGGBl66uxrcj8GshXcIzbY6JhpMfJ4Xh1qTp96TmsKPEjo1CLbz9Wc_o85LYP2Ke29NrWyWkpgo5V-5s-Da3QQKv8nzxzh5c51q1lbSyI/s400/02.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5701306605546654706" /></a><br /><br />Sarah climbing the upper glacier on Cerro Solo:<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3aDwtWVHjRAnM02Grs0_H-mJmdNDCEZJxpMv14bE8oEsJhlP9PcKfDMHz3Is6NncRGNWS6wjVSTo4MCSPcEYUVAGtFgbk6bTWyYay2QoLqVgMx1BbwpNJGIDchuYnLFIg6iz00DjsMZI/s1600/03.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3aDwtWVHjRAnM02Grs0_H-mJmdNDCEZJxpMv14bE8oEsJhlP9PcKfDMHz3Is6NncRGNWS6wjVSTo4MCSPcEYUVAGtFgbk6bTWyYay2QoLqVgMx1BbwpNJGIDchuYnLFIg6iz00DjsMZI/s400/03.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5701306614036952466" /></a><br /><br />After Cerro Solo another weather window appeared in the forecast, and Sarah and I went to try the east pillar (aka Red Pillar) of Aguja Mermoz. Sarah climbing up to the base of the Red Pillar, with a beautiful sunrise over Paso Superior:<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3jV38AG-gshVdvP1svtg4_iROMSThfneCRBeYVRVkJCz2K0Yq8M8WxzXI3YulhHRYivvCPar6gwQ7OnVmljYGo_WazbZ9180P0HMlC1wKksEIbWPftt2HPJUBqpeTaJjyrjNLgA8inj4/s1600/04.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3jV38AG-gshVdvP1svtg4_iROMSThfneCRBeYVRVkJCz2K0Yq8M8WxzXI3YulhHRYivvCPar6gwQ7OnVmljYGo_WazbZ9180P0HMlC1wKksEIbWPftt2HPJUBqpeTaJjyrjNLgA8inj4/s400/04.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5701307640647033170" /></a><br /><br />The weather window turned out to be mostly false, and only a few pitches up the Red Pillar it began to rain. Sarah following the first high-quality pitch of the route, and the last that we climbed before turning around:<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRZL81OrS7DCtTi7-4IjlewOS7fo7cNkhCLbf20BI4nB0NhvDhnPJoo8UiaaR6NgjxyKWKPOdpLdefSSIYTs2Aa_XONHPtPSJ0lG_Bjr8wZNdpJTECZMMgmMvmbUJw7ZVWaL7y8OtZFCA/s1600/05.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRZL81OrS7DCtTi7-4IjlewOS7fo7cNkhCLbf20BI4nB0NhvDhnPJoo8UiaaR6NgjxyKWKPOdpLdefSSIYTs2Aa_XONHPtPSJ0lG_Bjr8wZNdpJTECZMMgmMvmbUJw7ZVWaL7y8OtZFCA/s400/05.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5701307643413141762" /></a><br /><br />Sarah rapping over the bergschrund at the base of the east face of Mermoz:<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQkQMXLwfYttcLA1N0uO4s-0yZ-JJ2vqK7Ae-sxOSWs8nQ_cA09qgGuQ9o5_fHZaMQUISgeXfwq20IvmaEayl4GEkvI-H5VoCfHmZwcViMcZ9LhD5wp58s00JY07iZbN-JdkrnkVLbhWI/s1600/06.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQkQMXLwfYttcLA1N0uO4s-0yZ-JJ2vqK7Ae-sxOSWs8nQ_cA09qgGuQ9o5_fHZaMQUISgeXfwq20IvmaEayl4GEkvI-H5VoCfHmZwcViMcZ9LhD5wp58s00JY07iZbN-JdkrnkVLbhWI/s400/06.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5701307650158572034" /></a><br /><br />Recently there has been a whole bunch of good weather here (too much, in fact - and the mountains are falling apart, with huge amounts of spontaneous rockfall), although for me it has been mostly unproductive in terms of climbing. There was a tragic and fatal accident on Aguja St. Exupery, in which Canadian climber, Carlyle Norman, was killed. During the only recent stormy weather, I went with Rolando Garibotti, Jorge Ackerman and Pep Masip in an attempted rescue mission. Climbing in high winds, at night, while raining and snowing, we weren't able to reach Carlyle's position high on the tower. We'll never know whether or not Carlyle was still alive while we were trying to reach her.<br /><br />The physical exertion from our rescue mission, combined with the psychological strain of knowing a fellow climber had just died, took the wind out of our sails, and we passed a couple days of perfect weather in town.<br /><br />Finally, the day before yesterday I climbed Aguja Desmochada with Rolo Garibotti and Doerte Pietron via the Golden Eagle route, with a bunch of extra weight on our backs.<br /><br />Doerte took the first lead block on Golden Eagle. Rolo starting up the second lead block:<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvIfG-YpRhmg70ZjDQE7eXOrgVPwFr8HvSh0NQmJ0hZDwg5QnQQOeYeetYpB5G714sDVjFOGkzpzctQY7j76SeCk3isBgliKztgm5IolsTv3iOne7WJzbWKhxDPPeihwFqzUR51CqL6Nc/s1600/07.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvIfG-YpRhmg70ZjDQE7eXOrgVPwFr8HvSh0NQmJ0hZDwg5QnQQOeYeetYpB5G714sDVjFOGkzpzctQY7j76SeCk3isBgliKztgm5IolsTv3iOne7WJzbWKhxDPPeihwFqzUR51CqL6Nc/s400/07.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5701307658508176610" /></a><br /><br />Doerte jugging with a heavy pack during Rolo's lead block:<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhb_6RNzPbyS75X7WHAvRGWJZRDZjhIwMB8w70-Iik7oBYYspF2H5nXCcci8ZZF-tShFPfIOB8k9zjUL1inFQ3Fu4Ml8AqM8tRlFS0MZ-UZSasBzGjfzlph4Qso2OfubDbD19xUSeJyZlU/s1600/08.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhb_6RNzPbyS75X7WHAvRGWJZRDZjhIwMB8w70-Iik7oBYYspF2H5nXCcci8ZZF-tShFPfIOB8k9zjUL1inFQ3Fu4Ml8AqM8tRlFS0MZ-UZSasBzGjfzlph4Qso2OfubDbD19xUSeJyZlU/s400/08.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5701308844579733202" /></a><br /><br />Rolo coming up to my belay a few pitches below the summit of Desmochada, with the Torres behind:<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOTkUjdk7UUU1mBpArnE7lc4VrZoYwBQ8tGx1fs0m2KGFaWE-KFQXnM4wYV3enDmhSyUnAzVTJMjCfsshf81T6YIp3o4biMUPdgNIT2eXGCmXqy_EFs-aNTAPib51Rev9kUJEUzY-Xzes/s1600/09.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOTkUjdk7UUU1mBpArnE7lc4VrZoYwBQ8tGx1fs0m2KGFaWE-KFQXnM4wYV3enDmhSyUnAzVTJMjCfsshf81T6YIp3o4biMUPdgNIT2eXGCmXqy_EFs-aNTAPib51Rev9kUJEUzY-Xzes/s400/09.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5701308847644491426" /></a><br /><br />Rolo and Doerte on the summit of Aguja Desmochada:<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0A4RagxOrrpbds7WGgzCwHwjvZ9oOqqLudqSOPpZOFBKJvDISQZrxRsAaLqAKgXC-4RREzguvoz0-eeGJpuJmjYBngnNq3iAEPE1K7NDkrSnjSkVPgea75l5UPgeBTc25GUfbugkyJtY/s1600/10.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0A4RagxOrrpbds7WGgzCwHwjvZ9oOqqLudqSOPpZOFBKJvDISQZrxRsAaLqAKgXC-4RREzguvoz0-eeGJpuJmjYBngnNq3iAEPE1K7NDkrSnjSkVPgea75l5UPgeBTc25GUfbugkyJtY/s400/10.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5701308847372384866" /></a>Colinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13983021751924748485noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4333132788232790338.post-23692804423908773142011-12-31T08:27:00.000-08:002011-12-31T10:03:13.472-08:00Torre Egger, east pillarFor Christmas Papa Noel brought yet another weather window to El Chalten, and on Dec. 24th Jorge Ackermann and I hiked into the Torre valley again, intent on trying the east pillar of Torre Egger, which we had previously attempted a few weeks earlier. We spent Christmas Eve at the Norwegos bivouac, and on Christmas morning hiked up the glacier to the base of Torre Egger's east pillar.<br /><br />We climbed the O'Neil-Martin variation of the Titanic route, bivying a bit more than half-way up, reaching the summit in the evening of the second day, and then rappelling through the second night. I thought it was a long, difficult climb, and certainly one of the harder routes I have climbed in Patagonia.<br /><br />Colin on Christmas morning, starting the first pitch of the O'Neil-Martin variation of Titanic. Photo by Jorge.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmYSFwuX4WlDP2z7xD5UJ0FvFmC5fAa8L2ZuLebK5lhNPsl2QOptvrhbwTNtsz5X5qLT71xD-utxdaA6TxuRmXYsJtNE22nY7LD_pMFhmwrSRWa9FaJ8udhSZuX2-R1asMcIgRWY0OMh4/s1600/02j.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmYSFwuX4WlDP2z7xD5UJ0FvFmC5fAa8L2ZuLebK5lhNPsl2QOptvrhbwTNtsz5X5qLT71xD-utxdaA6TxuRmXYsJtNE22nY7LD_pMFhmwrSRWa9FaJ8udhSZuX2-R1asMcIgRWY0OMh4/s400/02j.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5692331591814844658" /></a><br /><br />Looking down the second pitch of the O'Neil-Martin variation. Photo by Colin.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8Ers0Mk7Gx-KzabZjEDb1TbsK6dWNRJQ_PV7MuBqVy6lWB41l5zE17-Fmm8_Y5lqNANSPlO9sMpZdMAKPQh6q7sZqMxb4NoRAcyjZz0a11QxChxHm189mjunLWwzv5p5-OnDrXKOmOC8/s1600/03c.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8Ers0Mk7Gx-KzabZjEDb1TbsK6dWNRJQ_PV7MuBqVy6lWB41l5zE17-Fmm8_Y5lqNANSPlO9sMpZdMAKPQh6q7sZqMxb4NoRAcyjZz0a11QxChxHm189mjunLWwzv5p5-OnDrXKOmOC8/s400/03c.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5692331595164434290" /></a><br /><br />Colin leading up a basalt dike a few pitches up the O'Neil-Martin variation. Photo by Jorge.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzkm9LT4w5k25uVPYC-tECTb61_7WaAwHlcZ_pirfMy0VGrfzLSA2p41bRREd86dBgBq1gFi3u4uEVlvHvqJ8INAHBQ2kLMy-2necO2LFVYxmY3XcJYOp_mfcEOV4JFr3MUe30ISj7KAE/s1600/05j.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzkm9LT4w5k25uVPYC-tECTb61_7WaAwHlcZ_pirfMy0VGrfzLSA2p41bRREd86dBgBq1gFi3u4uEVlvHvqJ8INAHBQ2kLMy-2necO2LFVYxmY3XcJYOp_mfcEOV4JFr3MUe30ISj7KAE/s400/05j.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5692331598741317698" /></a><br /><br />Jorge starting up a pitch on the O'Neil-Martin variation, with the hanging glacier between Egger and Punta Herron behind. Photo by Colin.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgi7ZMVXCrknaa8DCwv1nAAcebGOohq0TICWKgd4ovvwmz7R7e759zDEku80Hx_QOmBY5TE_QanZRTcGhM9CcT5PR_YtRD26axgNqxgfM-gzjLLZIfRhRWX5BqYelA0F04XgBPMVEIntrg/s1600/07c.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgi7ZMVXCrknaa8DCwv1nAAcebGOohq0TICWKgd4ovvwmz7R7e759zDEku80Hx_QOmBY5TE_QanZRTcGhM9CcT5PR_YtRD26axgNqxgfM-gzjLLZIfRhRWX5BqYelA0F04XgBPMVEIntrg/s400/07c.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5692331610494129330" /></a><br /><br />Colin jumaring on the O'Neil-Martin variation. Photo by Jorge.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDgTPWJMUiA1Z2mkM_3Z5hWCYFPpJDzc83QiI-xm3HNTH0bHsRR3WW65L48wnSwhZNRbmUgMYNiRByQcJpP3OSmkmOqkmvRxWpExs7ge-HvhU1S3vB0XRFoZtSmokZBLPAWEtM0PMtB3s/s1600/08j.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDgTPWJMUiA1Z2mkM_3Z5hWCYFPpJDzc83QiI-xm3HNTH0bHsRR3WW65L48wnSwhZNRbmUgMYNiRByQcJpP3OSmkmOqkmvRxWpExs7ge-HvhU1S3vB0XRFoZtSmokZBLPAWEtM0PMtB3s/s400/08j.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5692333025437159138" /></a><br /><br />Jorge leading on the O'Neil-Martin variation, with Fitz Roy, Poincenot, Innominata and St. Exupery behind. Photo by Colin.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaMTP6BuJfngX4Zwjnue0J25ltWiYT6R0MPM2hSyPaR39LULIGpKq9sW7DSC5qe7wPjc5lfJeLtPA3eOa-bjPoRonG3sTF9T8oklIXpO3kG02PeL5FsnQCRCA8cmMpGrXVZVseEdM2bT8/s1600/09c.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaMTP6BuJfngX4Zwjnue0J25ltWiYT6R0MPM2hSyPaR39LULIGpKq9sW7DSC5qe7wPjc5lfJeLtPA3eOa-bjPoRonG3sTF9T8oklIXpO3kG02PeL5FsnQCRCA8cmMpGrXVZVseEdM2bT8/s400/09c.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5692333025979959010" /></a><br /><br />Jorge leading a steep pitch on the O'Neil-Martin variation, with old fixed ropes visible to the side. Photo by Colin.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieZf2fAV3OKlEOJMJ7bPEdNZvpSUmqb5pjTnE71io2Z8YNYDA2Bh5lqeeACO_Ryj5I4Ynx6gtEVQevkjni8HzBbk_3Rl-WIQFZUz1h84YZV290cwBfRjCk_jAiFLaZzxTecEAwavCrBwQ/s1600/10c.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieZf2fAV3OKlEOJMJ7bPEdNZvpSUmqb5pjTnE71io2Z8YNYDA2Bh5lqeeACO_Ryj5I4Ynx6gtEVQevkjni8HzBbk_3Rl-WIQFZUz1h84YZV290cwBfRjCk_jAiFLaZzxTecEAwavCrBwQ/s400/10c.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5692333037408963234" /></a><br /><br />Jorge nearing the snow-shoulder half-way up Torre Egger, at the junction with the Titanic route. The upper east pillar of Torre Egger is visible straight above, with Cerro Torre on the left and Punta Herron on the right. Photo by Colin.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBK9QrfAGnNxdh05hkv-qkD-RLh6_8a0cpZbLvQtlkfoHJT53t2ZQanO83Lh7XOWFpntuHM-9afAZX43MXeHH0N-PD7r42ztSm2YTrExebEiWdtRHDvVFxpIT324xLBCBGqoYdvQRqiMI/s1600/11c.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBK9QrfAGnNxdh05hkv-qkD-RLh6_8a0cpZbLvQtlkfoHJT53t2ZQanO83Lh7XOWFpntuHM-9afAZX43MXeHH0N-PD7r42ztSm2YTrExebEiWdtRHDvVFxpIT324xLBCBGqoYdvQRqiMI/s400/11c.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5692333041659950514" /></a><br /><br />Colin starting up the snow-shoulder, with the upper east pillar above, and Cerro Torre to the left. Photo by Jorge.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgSN6YNthL1quJzmmncz5Wfli0wzQtVxCXKgnhYuBjEENQjB2F80eQZ43Afuit3egHwmMIaPl8MqTeugnDewBPehMeNK2iobZ1r9w0UkRd2Z7UYma9lTXJmi00GlRSP8wDWTjBWPOmks4/s1600/13j.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgSN6YNthL1quJzmmncz5Wfli0wzQtVxCXKgnhYuBjEENQjB2F80eQZ43Afuit3egHwmMIaPl8MqTeugnDewBPehMeNK2iobZ1r9w0UkRd2Z7UYma9lTXJmi00GlRSP8wDWTjBWPOmks4/s400/13j.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5692334690861627666" /></a><br /><br />We bivied at the top of the snow-shoulder. Jorge chilling at the bivy ledge while we melted snow. Photo by Colin.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXwB7WAeLqteMUmtUMq8Io7HbOTfF5hZ-sFMaG8HgitbXtSbzHHZk6WA6xrsIHokNQlpOvJsENFpFoZTsqtix6snMaAvd5K9PUWWsNLbze9zNoAA5u5vtUgRkIQqpV5EaVOa06CX5HKu4/s1600/15c.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXwB7WAeLqteMUmtUMq8Io7HbOTfF5hZ-sFMaG8HgitbXtSbzHHZk6WA6xrsIHokNQlpOvJsENFpFoZTsqtix6snMaAvd5K9PUWWsNLbze9zNoAA5u5vtUgRkIQqpV5EaVOa06CX5HKu4/s400/15c.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5692334694749877922" /></a><br /><br />Colin starting the first pitch of the upper pillar on the morning of our second day. Photo by Jorge.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpFYur0gnQaHdtAbgrdjyf2tExjWC3IL-xsibZ1P4J0MscKXmNymlwfAeA98y05HgwKAeKTxOn92_AuWAhxjglRWZ-EwgV5YDMoGwMogT99NkkdBxhQM3vDW5Q8L9i0mhz9nmbyqDEn7k/s1600/16j.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 300px; height: 400px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpFYur0gnQaHdtAbgrdjyf2tExjWC3IL-xsibZ1P4J0MscKXmNymlwfAeA98y05HgwKAeKTxOn92_AuWAhxjglRWZ-EwgV5YDMoGwMogT99NkkdBxhQM3vDW5Q8L9i0mhz9nmbyqDEn7k/s400/16j.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5692334708781835378" /></a><br /><br />Colin starting the second pitch of the upper pillar, with the upper south face of Cerro Standhard visible to the right. Photo by Jorge.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikizcwkCtV9VKzTG67lIfaKLENKQVUGqFTHG_s37AEsmBbqXocT2y9EyI7RQbPr58Ifv0f0Q10fv4mVaBkpGMvsBuoKkUuXIYsO7x8vy405-gssOyeX0lmy8lAa2fNglf6gHJYpBlRIAg/s1600/17j.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikizcwkCtV9VKzTG67lIfaKLENKQVUGqFTHG_s37AEsmBbqXocT2y9EyI7RQbPr58Ifv0f0Q10fv4mVaBkpGMvsBuoKkUuXIYsO7x8vy405-gssOyeX0lmy8lAa2fNglf6gHJYpBlRIAg/s400/17j.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5692334708657809186" /></a><br /><br />Jorge coming up the second pitch of the upper pillar. Photo by Colin.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhq-i7FcZUo0yJDCg5uW3D-DMVquNxATc35mUM7l5xMNoE-ZHHfKwDkg_HFqIsvA7ySR0k7-cqdxiMqPPeo7ooWQkNKUi6NSn1fBG2EYgahgna0NQxPssIZ8byDQH8Yzpva0jvyn5czByw/s1600/18c.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 300px; height: 400px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhq-i7FcZUo0yJDCg5uW3D-DMVquNxATc35mUM7l5xMNoE-ZHHfKwDkg_HFqIsvA7ySR0k7-cqdxiMqPPeo7ooWQkNKUi6NSn1fBG2EYgahgna0NQxPssIZ8byDQH8Yzpva0jvyn5czByw/s400/18c.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5692336536157844866" /></a><br /><br />Jorge coming up the third pitch of the upper pillar. Photo by Colin.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtcuB47kTTxo604zq4UKJqsJhNvNJ9Sr4gIWLEkOncg6oxXm45T_PHMbGerlLGqeynmh9QymhXZ6DJWF51-1znAghMIJLr-01qK6JIbXGfxLMwbzet2_ijGxgUAEsFMADjyEQuXqp13d0/s1600/19c.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtcuB47kTTxo604zq4UKJqsJhNvNJ9Sr4gIWLEkOncg6oxXm45T_PHMbGerlLGqeynmh9QymhXZ6DJWF51-1znAghMIJLr-01qK6JIbXGfxLMwbzet2_ijGxgUAEsFMADjyEQuXqp13d0/s400/19c.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5692336538008516194" /></a><br /><br />The upper pillar is climbed via two large ramp systems, and the lower ramp and upper ramp are joined by a pitch of 6a, A2. Colin leading the connecting pitch. Photo by Jorge.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjY-SaWwCy2gw58s78y4e9eTPOA545-YWX-qYjd984tPZl11m6WFsADoJzPYYYt1zdZsPS0iFkgu4KBsC7jDboUCDZfPa-2hK9bP32EyYc5h_8XrGYCoclvlfi2-YWhrM_7feLrfxA2pqs/s1600/20j.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 300px; height: 400px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjY-SaWwCy2gw58s78y4e9eTPOA545-YWX-qYjd984tPZl11m6WFsADoJzPYYYt1zdZsPS0iFkgu4KBsC7jDboUCDZfPa-2hK9bP32EyYc5h_8XrGYCoclvlfi2-YWhrM_7feLrfxA2pqs/s400/20j.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5692336544290718882" /></a><br /><br />Colin re-hydrating at a belay, with the south face of Cerro Standhardt visible behind. Photo by Jorge.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJqOKIH3V5X8Fcdutg3qQQatm-v-lP4jwTorfBvY0Bk7S3qCWci17i93ZAM6lcZMebmYeVwl3HikGAeeeScveAtw89dfVZ1l7ccUBc3wtPMkQB9qn8GDOvArBscIRE5W7f6d_1XZiIvsg/s1600/22j.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJqOKIH3V5X8Fcdutg3qQQatm-v-lP4jwTorfBvY0Bk7S3qCWci17i93ZAM6lcZMebmYeVwl3HikGAeeeScveAtw89dfVZ1l7ccUBc3wtPMkQB9qn8GDOvArBscIRE5W7f6d_1XZiIvsg/s400/22j.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5692336550709905122" /></a><br /><br />Jorge following a pitch on the upper ramp system, with Innominata, St. Exupery and Aguja de l'S visible behind. Photo by Colin.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkzBuHeJJC06KQ70Tu3fAginANzOVflPbYQWGoWd4-DF_JO9EphTe3T-48Z1e9fhZl4F7KQKyq53GBSkahgOFsPx7fgimVnJ5-lr-vRXFLGj_08z9Ij8QGglRwBu9BmIru3MKPnq_o9Tc/s1600/23c.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 300px; height: 400px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkzBuHeJJC06KQ70Tu3fAginANzOVflPbYQWGoWd4-DF_JO9EphTe3T-48Z1e9fhZl4F7KQKyq53GBSkahgOFsPx7fgimVnJ5-lr-vRXFLGj_08z9Ij8QGglRwBu9BmIru3MKPnq_o9Tc/s400/23c.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5692338955201146338" /></a><br /><br />After the two ramp systems on the upper pillar, Titanic climbs to the upper snow-shoulder on Torre Egger via a steep chimney system. Unfortunately the ice in the chimney was almost completely melted out, and running with water, so I climbed the steep wall to the left, first on aid up steep (overhanging) cracks, and then free up slabs above. Photo by Jorge.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRj3knT5zvvmq9R_MxeubqG-dkJlt5WH7xBUKVXNZ-_fFnaUuBZ-0F1HKq9e0sxtYCd8fF3i_04EIaLtlTLO0d60X_8kLIRwxKR7oBtxf8J6LsR7hzmXl-JeVA0YeFFhkgcyJwGi8UQF4/s1600/24j.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 300px; height: 400px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRj3knT5zvvmq9R_MxeubqG-dkJlt5WH7xBUKVXNZ-_fFnaUuBZ-0F1HKq9e0sxtYCd8fF3i_04EIaLtlTLO0d60X_8kLIRwxKR7oBtxf8J6LsR7hzmXl-JeVA0YeFFhkgcyJwGi8UQF4/s400/24j.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5692338959723092066" /></a><br /><br />Jorge coming up the rock to the left of the melting ice chimney. Photo by Colin.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8GJ3ydRb1JLVkqxmuUJSj3DzdNbUmgwhrc3ZBuCMuZyHOoDNyyI1YQ-vEXm3QUS82vLhEHWb_jh-VzIDLnA1tKZd5EuUlBYBXKh0uT6qFCml29CKjIUjNyzJvV9CJ55lz7qvo1juFxdU/s1600/25c.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8GJ3ydRb1JLVkqxmuUJSj3DzdNbUmgwhrc3ZBuCMuZyHOoDNyyI1YQ-vEXm3QUS82vLhEHWb_jh-VzIDLnA1tKZd5EuUlBYBXKh0uT6qFCml29CKjIUjNyzJvV9CJ55lz7qvo1juFxdU/s400/25c.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5692338957686106770" /></a><br /><br />Climbing up to Jorge's belay at the base of Torre Egger's summit mushroom. Photo by Colin.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhe-Ug7_foEDgiiGcyf3h0X5CS9Yjs2NopXBm7oVYmMo24nM_cPmR2DZCNNWkPOupYNih0qEu5P78HAxbB5szS_ChQEP_XS7k9t8d4UYhlg_o2_Cj-8e_It3FY0MGxq9NGiD5CRiEI1kr0/s1600/26c.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhe-Ug7_foEDgiiGcyf3h0X5CS9Yjs2NopXBm7oVYmMo24nM_cPmR2DZCNNWkPOupYNih0qEu5P78HAxbB5szS_ChQEP_XS7k9t8d4UYhlg_o2_Cj-8e_It3FY0MGxq9NGiD5CRiEI1kr0/s400/26c.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5692338966761722594" /></a><br /><br />We skirted the worst part of the summit mushroom by traversing to the left. Colin traversing to the left, with Cerro Torre behind. Photo by Jorge.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihKyaxj3zSuObu_fXc_iq0ivA07JaADi1tXTViBL4Ks2p42Y3JT4YYzu5oppT-PrDmdHAugYMsKv_KYxfECaeujvsn2hafNTidqhz1r3RX2TQsm2UAcUbXNWUG90wcK-ptDFg5625EeEU/s1600/27j.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihKyaxj3zSuObu_fXc_iq0ivA07JaADi1tXTViBL4Ks2p42Y3JT4YYzu5oppT-PrDmdHAugYMsKv_KYxfECaeujvsn2hafNTidqhz1r3RX2TQsm2UAcUbXNWUG90wcK-ptDFg5625EeEU/s400/27j.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5692340064512729234" /></a><br /><br />Jorge climbing a step of rime to reach easier ice slopes above. Photo by Colin.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhS-PpBGWBWaDoQkhlwTNg91XMEX59lZudWhqPg1fDJnCf3yi1gABABIThKcab-dRPbLYO8dd5kfPyU7SWTtuY67BgS0RoJpOhE4MAAxKDlar3e-4178kntBzKSWsoMAw09dh0BrybcIYE/s1600/29c.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhS-PpBGWBWaDoQkhlwTNg91XMEX59lZudWhqPg1fDJnCf3yi1gABABIThKcab-dRPbLYO8dd5kfPyU7SWTtuY67BgS0RoJpOhE4MAAxKDlar3e-4178kntBzKSWsoMAw09dh0BrybcIYE/s400/29c.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5692340069117787010" /></a><br /><br />Colin following an ice traverse onto the upper south face of Torre Egger. Photo by Jorge.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuRUNCCyzCGW6EQy1Z_wzOiVppZXh9gxiQvC8x4N_PmojFikE7AUiJqNBT7NkKr0tEd4gpeH9MH5LKYa0aAf7aPB17X7GWEBBXSPwnxde7Pc6bG0a0q_ZPLKfDRhj0FjraGor3K2e11KU/s1600/30j.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuRUNCCyzCGW6EQy1Z_wzOiVppZXh9gxiQvC8x4N_PmojFikE7AUiJqNBT7NkKr0tEd4gpeH9MH5LKYa0aAf7aPB17X7GWEBBXSPwnxde7Pc6bG0a0q_ZPLKfDRhj0FjraGor3K2e11KU/s400/30j.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5692340080945788434" /></a><br /><br />Jorge climbing the last ice pitch to reach the summit. Photo by Colin.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMXDBSMoHTwpSHnjBl1u9xwXsx6y1xx9_Gib5ZZaPcqhODGE1ScmU9WpKaofDRsIcUT9-iY42UloJtn3pPh2sTYOqUX5hux0SyHarcLtUBvMqZ744oY_-uGVtx0ya8DY1-CkSjpB5kCQE/s1600/31c.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMXDBSMoHTwpSHnjBl1u9xwXsx6y1xx9_Gib5ZZaPcqhODGE1ScmU9WpKaofDRsIcUT9-iY42UloJtn3pPh2sTYOqUX5hux0SyHarcLtUBvMqZ744oY_-uGVtx0ya8DY1-CkSjpB5kCQE/s400/31c.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5692340077043498674" /></a><br /><br />Jorge just below the summit of Torre Egger, pointing out where we need to go next! Photo by Colin.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSfOdoLl7ahnBl4mT1ycmwqvMTh8ykm65rn_TZvASj7wjU0Du0ES_9UHe02P9iLYmEUULaZG9ux4o_GyVrgev-7atNnrY3JuHmhi2icgEVmIW0HoRoxm9D3vJ5WE4IIJp8MBCTCiFtoy8/s1600/32c.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSfOdoLl7ahnBl4mT1ycmwqvMTh8ykm65rn_TZvASj7wjU0Du0ES_9UHe02P9iLYmEUULaZG9ux4o_GyVrgev-7atNnrY3JuHmhi2icgEVmIW0HoRoxm9D3vJ5WE4IIJp8MBCTCiFtoy8/s400/32c.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5692341412052444722" /></a><br /><br />A party from Bariloche climbed the Ragni Route on the west face of Cerro Torre during the same window, and from the summit of Torre Egger we could see them half-way up the last pitch. Photo by Colin.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiBfoTyikzkqJehO9ReKJS9_1jRYT_9Bm11x94CaMXfkFthS5i6_63_VCKermrebmgUvBe08tUWUOQXjlpYIgsFKpv3qfQiQFVo7kmbBMq4k-h0mdq71eOPY_peIhAF9kTJpZipT89jb8/s1600/33c.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiBfoTyikzkqJehO9ReKJS9_1jRYT_9Bm11x94CaMXfkFthS5i6_63_VCKermrebmgUvBe08tUWUOQXjlpYIgsFKpv3qfQiQFVo7kmbBMq4k-h0mdq71eOPY_peIhAF9kTJpZipT89jb8/s400/33c.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5692341409331161794" /></a><br /><br />Just after we summitted, Bjørn-Eivind Årtun and Ole Lied topped out from climbing a really cool new route/variation on the south face of Torre Egger. Bjørn-Eivind climbing the summit slopes of Torre Egger. Photo by Colin.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRIfriJYggES8Cyw5hwmrhAy0_D2NuCK8Cig5CYXgMrxrudUPaPaFnNx-yOrjmiAlQ2V73Bi7yICOFXBblpfqGJWr2Fa-VCxptZVMGICPx5GsjfvgfkPXUMkDYFd27osweP7WQh1vawUE/s1600/34c.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRIfriJYggES8Cyw5hwmrhAy0_D2NuCK8Cig5CYXgMrxrudUPaPaFnNx-yOrjmiAlQ2V73Bi7yICOFXBblpfqGJWr2Fa-VCxptZVMGICPx5GsjfvgfkPXUMkDYFd27osweP7WQh1vawUE/s400/34c.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5692341415268521250" /></a><br /><br />Bjørn-Eivind and Ole feeling psyched just below the summit of Torre Egger! Photo by Jorge.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEf9PB4UuqdNv_k1xQkuPaQNFjc5rFqtbGyzoV-Mk2sufKKkn6v9CFsHci1_hz2plZshGusau4WY_XLRvnPJfer00s0wKMEhuTSoQfsHuI7tnS-L7s_R8VIjy2ODRU14RdT1ZEWE3YbFA/s1600/35j.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEf9PB4UuqdNv_k1xQkuPaQNFjc5rFqtbGyzoV-Mk2sufKKkn6v9CFsHci1_hz2plZshGusau4WY_XLRvnPJfer00s0wKMEhuTSoQfsHuI7tnS-L7s_R8VIjy2ODRU14RdT1ZEWE3YbFA/s400/35j.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5692341417897248626" /></a><br /><br />Colin setting up the first rappel off of Torre Egger's summit mushroom. We rapped off a buried stuff-sack that was left a couple days earlier by Hayden Kennedy and Jason Kruk, who climbed Torre Egger via the Huber-Schnarf route. During this weather window Torre Egger was climbed three times, by three different parties, by three different, completely-independent routes - which is pretty cool I think! Photo by Jorge.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1OYqcx7OnevrQRFMTn6nYL59MBSzJ_sVaJMlreQFeZpjl-RA1ONbX1fdxWxFXCRWVmCwLUmrXN6UN_mmMtL18-9zDlOf-83VCngITwbuZkGp9s6FO3_b9h9tL8ElsAlL0WIA9ihyMOo8/s1600/36j.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1OYqcx7OnevrQRFMTn6nYL59MBSzJ_sVaJMlreQFeZpjl-RA1ONbX1fdxWxFXCRWVmCwLUmrXN6UN_mmMtL18-9zDlOf-83VCngITwbuZkGp9s6FO3_b9h9tL8ElsAlL0WIA9ihyMOo8/s400/36j.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5692343508397192610" /></a><br /><br />Colin rappelling the upper east pillar, with many, many rappels still to go... Photo by Jorge.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdDK5rCvL-HgQsfaT1R9O4xa1guVhl_OY_qCJJgpC8sRaGoivJj0tomEiqkZvHnPSub68pE9m2qAYiOXBB91cgKHsOPzObJgm687WIGkwcrxAGKAwjIOEezWjbVkx9EecnAhMWLlDVl60/s1600/37j.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdDK5rCvL-HgQsfaT1R9O4xa1guVhl_OY_qCJJgpC8sRaGoivJj0tomEiqkZvHnPSub68pE9m2qAYiOXBB91cgKHsOPzObJgm687WIGkwcrxAGKAwjIOEezWjbVkx9EecnAhMWLlDVl60/s400/37j.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5692343508339275154" /></a><br /><br />After rappelling through the night, Colin on one of the last few rappels of the O'Neil-Martin variation, in the morning sunlight. Photo by Jorge.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnjokeMUuXxfcmrrcXl3pP-XJE_f-5kwqreUAql6U8mwkb5-ceG47Oc2uDsdENUIBmBMbjUo7pgbq_rU10MMEFe-KqWPMI22Gnpgvm6GsGRCozfJ9osu-nFt9pRHFxmxTYBIJENl3jQJ0/s1600/38j.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnjokeMUuXxfcmrrcXl3pP-XJE_f-5kwqreUAql6U8mwkb5-ceG47Oc2uDsdENUIBmBMbjUo7pgbq_rU10MMEFe-KqWPMI22Gnpgvm6GsGRCozfJ9osu-nFt9pRHFxmxTYBIJENl3jQJ0/s400/38j.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5692343509518345874" /></a><br /><br />Jorge and myself back on the glacier in the morning, feeling good! Photo by Jorge.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0AZA9YsVjxw452WZ_LNEsuurMMzu0w96IXsv6YDxzYp4cCZpJevZi9bANZfTKW987XjRUY33lV0n_LWbwTiVV1aPoWmu4m8RDI4oog13-Tzmy42XisiWdY5QLkp9g1wWkfpQuYFil78s/s1600/39j.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0AZA9YsVjxw452WZ_LNEsuurMMzu0w96IXsv6YDxzYp4cCZpJevZi9bANZfTKW987XjRUY33lV0n_LWbwTiVV1aPoWmu4m8RDI4oog13-Tzmy42XisiWdY5QLkp9g1wWkfpQuYFil78s/s400/39j.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5692343518754719938" /></a>Colinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13983021751924748485noreply@blogger.com